The only difference is that now, instead of flashing one white light, it flashes three. I couldn't find anything that explains what this means. I was planning on opening up the device again and checking the connections, but before I do, does anyone happen to know what it means?

EDIT: Here is a video of the issue, hopefully it will play. With the PS5 off and disconnected, I hit the PS button on both controllers. The black controller flashes the blue light bar and one white light. The white controller flashes the blue light bar and three white lights.

⟐ Answer edited April 03, 2026 at 21:02 MST

I have a question. My ps4 controller stop charging. Why???

When i plug in to ps4, does't it work(yellow color not see). When i plug in to my pc usb show me the yellow color but when i press the PS button wont turn on. Before a week i have this problem and when i press the reset button was fixed. But the problem come again and does't fix it when i press the reset button. Please some advise.

⟐ Commented March 30, 2026 at 11:03 MST

⟐ Answered March 29, 2026 at 9:02 MST

⟐ Answered March 26, 2026 at 16:49 MST

⟐ Commented March 24, 2026 at 9:16 MST

⟐ Commented March 23, 2026 at 3:49 MST

⟐ Answered March 23, 2026 at 1:48 MST

Photo

⟐ Answer accepted March 22, 2026 at 11:40 MST

Can I transfer the face plate and track pad plate onto a V5 controller?

If not, will the motherboard and sticks from a V5 fit and connect with internals from a V3?

For reference i have the motherboard serial number BDM-030. Any help is appreciated I would love to keep the livery on this controller if joystick replacement is the only option then that'll have to do. Thank you.

⟐ Answered March 21, 2026 at 2:07 MST

I resoldered the 8 cables in the correct order (I'm a beginner) and it worked fine for a while. After a month I noticed the haptic feedback wasn't working in multiple games, so I tested the controller again and found that the soft and heavy rumble no longer work (tested on different PCs, cables, ports, etc.).

I tried resoldering the motor cables again but it affected nothing. Tried resetting the controller and checked for firmware updates (there were none), didn't help.

What are the chances that whatever board damage I made didn't manifest until after a few days?

I didn't have alcohol to clean after my soldering the first time, and I left a bit of flux on the board before closing the controller again. I just dried it a bit with a tissue though.

the hall effect sticks did go crazy for a few days after I fixed the cables the first time, but it settled down on their own. Is this an indication of something?

⟐ Commented March 19, 2026 at 8:35 MST

I have 2 ps4 controllers.

One of them doesn't go on. If I put them on the charge cable on the ps4 they lit orange as usual but as soon as I put them off the cable it goes out. If I press the home button it won't turn on. Only via cable.

So I thought that it was the fault of the battery. I bought a new battery out it in and still the same. The other controller functions without problem and this one also but doesn't go on wireless.

Please help what can I do?

⟐ Commented March 15, 2026 at 19:19 MST

⟐ Answered March 15, 2026 at 17:29 MST

⟐ Commented March 14, 2026 at 5:02 MST

⟐ Answered March 14, 2026 at 4:34 MST

⟐ Commented March 11, 2026 at 6:32 MST

⟐ Answered March 05, 2026 at 11:54 MST

As you can see, the thumbstick doesn't make smooth curves. It makes rough curves and feels more stiff. However, when I connect a properly working PS4 controller, I do get the correct result—smoother and and what it really is suppose to be like. What am I doing wrong here, since I've already done all the tests?

https://youtu.be/2Oa0OIQ3940?feature=sha...

Ik heb me vraag een beetje bijgewerkt.

Ik zit met het volgende probleem. Ik heb een Palo accu gekocht voor me ps4 controller.

Het is mij opgevallen dat er twee connectors uit de accu komen. Eentje voor de nieuwere model en eentje voor de oudere model. Mijn vraag is kan ik de connector die ik niet gebruik eraf knippen om ruimte te besparen in de controller. Want op dit moment gaat hij moeilijk dicht.

⟐ Commented March 03, 2026 at 11:10 MST

I assembled the gamepad fully and connected it to the tester. During these tests, I found that the speaker is not working (one contact was bent, so I fixed it later) and both types of vibration are not working (wires are soldered correctly). Everything else looks good, except for the battery, which shows a charge of 0-9%. I charged the gamepad for several hours and saw that after a full charge, the orange light blinks rapidly. After connecting it to the tester again, it showed the battery charge jumping from 0-9% to 100% and back.

Visually, I can't find any missing elements. I don't see any shorts for now. During the removal of the old sticks, I damaged a few traces near the stick buttons, but it was just the green mask being removed.

In conclusion, the symptoms are:

• Battery charge jumping from 0-9% to 100% when fully charged.
• Speaker not working (even after fixing the contact).
• Both types of vibration not working.
• The gamepad powers off after a few seconds if connected wirelessly.

Maybe someone has had a similar problem and knows how to fix it? I found one topic with similar symptoms, but there was no solution. I will be grateful for any help.

⟐ Commented March 03, 2026 at 11:04 MST

I’ll try my best to recall events with both controllers.

1) Hadn’t played in prob 6 months, but just started Until Dawn. Neither controller had charge

2) I charged White one as I usually do, from a 20W USB-C adapter. Initially started out well, but noticed I need to charge it every 3 hours, until eventually, it died entirely, w no lights coming on.

3) The Red one lit up orange off and on, for limited amounts of time, but no power,- Unable to interact w PS5, no connection.

4) Given 2 battery related issues within a week of each other, I guessed that both batteries had died at 3 years.

5) Bought a pair of highly rated 4000 mAh batteries off of Amazon and put them in. Neither had any residual charge in them, so placed them both on new Charging Cradle. Sometimes nothing, sometimes a few orange flashes, no connection to PS5, no juice. New dock shows a red light if charging, and blue when charged. Light remained blue the entire time.

6) Then I noticed that the White controller was getting very hot around battery area, and red was getting even hotter. When I took them off charger, they remained hot! Something was shunting all current out of batteries?

7) I left them disconnected on floor overnight, and both cool to touch this AM.

8) Went back through charging and trying to connect. Eventually white one would connect w cable, but showed flashing low battery light w no charge, and would quickly due and disconnect.

9) I was never able to get red connected, though it would show orange strobing, like white, for awhile.

10) don’t really have any tools to diagnose except a voltmeter, but unable to access metal tips to measure battery voltage and maybe impedance. And websites that will diagnose require battery power

11) I doubt both motherboards would have failed within a week. No issues with PS5 that I can see. Any idea what might be wrong or what else I can try?

12) Is it possible that this is a PS5 issue? Can faulty circuits in PS5 cause controller issues when charging, with bad data or bad charge to battery? Would help explain why they died so close to each other, with one root cause, versus 2 batteries dying at the same time by chance

13) Instead of putting more money into them, I just ordered a PS5 Pro which is arriving today. I’ll check to see if Edge connects to PS5 and if non-edge can connect to Pro

14) Worst case, I can sell PS5 console itself and throw in defective controllers

⟐ Commented March 03, 2026 at 11:03 MST

So my cousin had some stick drift on his PS5 controller, and I offered to upgrade it to TMR sticks. The upgrade was successful but now the R1 button doesn't work. He mentioned he dropped it once and one of the shoulder buttons got stuck, but that he un-stuck it and it was working fine after that. Things I've tried:

• I tried swapping the button membrane from the working L1 button to the R1 button.
• Replaced the conductive film.
• Cleaned the area where the motherboard interfaces with the conductive film.

What else could it be?

Thanks

⟐ Commented March 03, 2026 at 11:02 MST