⟐ Commented July 02, 2026 at 10:32 MST

⟐ Answered July 01, 2026 at 2:15 MST

⟐ Commented June 28, 2026 at 22:17 MST

I come with a question that I can't seem to get answered anywhere.

My PS5 fan doesn't stop moving at all. It spins at an incredibly high speed even when the console is off. Yes including rest mode. If I power cycle my system, even before I turn it back on the fan starts to spin and quickly. Anyone have any ideas?

I've disconnected and reconnected the fan, tried every option in safe mode including the factory reset options and tried different outlets, different cables etc.

⟐ Commented June 28, 2026 at 17:50 MST

I just bought a broken second-hand PS5 Digital with the blue light of death. The fan connector was also ripped off from the motherboard, as shown in the photo.

I did a voltage injection test on the board and everything seems to be fine, except for one capacitor that gets hot. I removed it because it seemed shorted, but I can’t find any information about its value. I’ll attach a photo showing where that capacitor was located. Nearby that CIP from the Photo.

Also, regarding the fan connector: is there any chance that the blue light of death could be caused by the ripped fan connector?

The console is a PS5 Digital CFI - 1216B, EDM-030.

If anyone has the schematic or boardview for this model, it would be very helpful.

Sorry for the mess in the photos !

Thank you !

⟐ Edited by author June 27, 2026 at 7:25 MST

Been trying to fix this issue for a while. Whenever i start any games, the console freezes and turn it self off. If I instantly turn the console on again after a crash, the crash can occur already when booting up the console.

Ive tried

• Changed the liquid metal twice. Made sure to polish the APU to mirrorclear as it actually was quite corroded.
• Cleared all fans and power supply from dust.
• Done all recommended software settings such as hdmi device link, factory reset and more.

UART error codes:

808B00FF - SSD
B0088108 - Sonic bus
C0020303 - Main soc, APU not responding
80000009 - unexpected powerloss

PS5 Standard Edition model CFI-1216A

Please feel free to ask any questions in order to guide me in the right direction. All and any help is appreciated.

⟐ Commented June 24, 2026 at 8:25 MST

⟐ Answered June 21, 2026 at 12:42 MST

⟐ Answered June 19, 2026 at 2:29 MST

I have already tried the following with no success:

1. Full power cycle (unplugged for 30+ minutes).

2. Restarting in Safe Mode.

3. Manually turning the manual eject screw (both clockwise and counter-clockwise) to try and reset the mechanical intake rollers.

4. Reseating the large ribbon cable connecting the disc drive to the motherboard.

The console still refuses to recognize the drive or take discs. I suspect it might be a blown fuse (F5401/F5402) or a stuck internal sensor. Any advice on how to test the sensors or which specific fuses to check for my model would be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Answered June 17, 2026 at 3:28 MST

⟐ Answer accepted June 17, 2026 at 0:41 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 16, 2026 at 19:23 MST

I am repairing some PS5 console with common beep - no power issue. I quickly measured common locations for shorts and I think I found one, but I'm not really sure if it's a short or is intended behaviour. It's near Dialog DA9081 power management chip, where an inductor (at least I think it is) is connected from what it looks like to me a common connection of pins 21, 22, 23 and 24 - although I find this very strange, as 21 and 22 are analog inputs, 24 is positive voltage terminal and 23 is analog ground. The other side of this inductor is shorted to ground, but there are clearly some capacitors so I think there should not be a short. Before I remove the chip I would like to hear your opinion.
I removed this what I think was inductor and took a shot with my microscope. Rectangle is where inductor was and I marked the X spot where I'm measuring against ground. I must say that short is only measured if I put positive probe to X and negative to ground. If I reverse it, I don't get a short.

BTw, anyone would know what value is this inductor so I can replace it once I find a defect?
Thanks

⟐ Commented May 26, 2026 at 11:50 MST

Bought a PS5 someone had kinda misled me on but anyways, disc version non-slim, wouldn't update or accept discs, looked up the error code, all connections to the disc drive looked okay so that led me to the conclusion the drive had failed/needed to replace it

I replaced the drive, made sure to transfer the board from the old drive to it, put everything back together, and there was no response from the eject button, reseated the ribbon a couple times and now the eject button is back to functioning but... it still doesn't accept discs on new drive

no sounds, no whirring, no response from the button, is it as simple as getting a new ribbon cable or like what does my problem sound like? someone please help

⟐ Commented May 22, 2026 at 6:36 MST

However, am I the only one with so many problems that prevent me from repairing?

I am currently working on a PS5 motherboard, the problem is that the soldering of the HDMI port is bad (so to redo). I try to desolder the port with a hot air station, but the solder flatly refuses to melt! I tried with several temperatures ranging from 300°C to 450°C, without forgetting to preheat the card. I thought for a long time that the problem was my flux, but... no.

It seems that the alloy that attaches the HDMI port to the motherboard is not tin, otherwise it will melt more easily! In that case, what is it?

I also tested on a PS4 HDMI port: nothing to do, the solder does not melt.

I've tried hot air soldering with a PC motherboard, and everything works fine, which shows that it's not my soldering hardware that's having problems.

Is there something I don't know or am I just being stupid?

Thanks a lot for any help,

⟐ Commented May 11, 2026 at 7:44 MST

I’m currently performing a deep thermal maintenance on my launch-day PS5 (2020).

For a long time, I've dealt with fast heat-up times and the "LAN Cable Disconnected" error that triggers specifically when the console gets hot.

(note: I am not an expert and before I started I did some research (YouTube, Reddit, iFixit, Gemini) and I want to share what I found.)

Upon teardown, I confirmed "dry spots" on the APU (Liquid Metal oxidation/shifting). I have already reapplied the Liquid Metal, and now moving on to the thermal putty phase.

I want to go beyond the factory application of thermal putty (by adding it to more areas) to achieve better heat dissipation to the shield/heatsink.

I’m planning to use the Upsiren UTP-8 thermal putty.

To solve the LAN disconnects, I intend to bridge the gap between the Ethernet port housing and the main metal shielding with the thermal putty to help sink heat away from the controller chip.

Q:

1. Looking at the marked images, are there any risks of "over-padding" specific areas that might prevent the plates from seating flush?

2. Has anyone had success specifically using thermal putty to stop the Ethernet port from overheating?

3. Are there any "hidden" hotspots on the 2020 model I should hit while I have it open?

Hoping this helps anyone else and I will be sharing my results after a few months from now. Thanks in advance 🙏

⟐ Commented May 05, 2026 at 2:20 MST

but it seems to have done more harm than good. I was going to try to fix it myself.

I've looked at the card under a microscope and unfortunately it doesn't look too promising (possibly damaged pads/tracks).

Has anyone here had a similar problem or think it can be saved?

⟐ Commented April 04, 2026 at 15:30 MST

⟐ Answered April 01, 2026 at 3:51 MST

⟐ Commented March 27, 2026 at 0:51 MST

⟐ Answered March 26, 2026 at 15:24 MST

⟐ Commented March 21, 2026 at 6:21 MST