⟐ Answered March 29, 2026 at 23:29 MST

⟐ Commented February 21, 2026 at 10:55 MST

⟐ Commented January 18, 2026 at 1:15 MST

⟐ Commented December 08, 2025 at 5:45 MST

⟐ Commented August 18, 2025 at 8:00 MST

⟐ Commented May 24, 2025 at 7:20 MST

I had made it work with WinXP but after a re-installation of WinXP, and re-install the card (with the same drivers in the same PC), i have this problem :

I have install the drivers, and the card shows in the Device Manager and is enabled in the Mixer but it refused to play audio. It is strange because the peak meter on the Mixer application is moving, which indicates things should be working...

I am trying to make it work now and for 1,5 month with no luck. I have installed all the Windows OS : Win95, Win98, Win2000, WinMe, WinXP, WinVista (with drivers i found on web), but the card do not have sound, in all of these OS''s.

I also gave the card to a technician to examine it if there is a bad circuit, but he told me that the card seems to be OK but he is not 100% sure, and he do not have the time to examine it more closely, because he do these only for expensive cards. When i told him the this card cost, (back in 1999) 700$, he did not believe me.

Something tells me that there is something wrong in the card.

Is there a way to examine it, on board or off board to diagnose if there is something which became bad (a capacitor, a resistor or something else, like the output jacks) ?

Any tip or idea, will help.

Thanks

Audio Card front

Audio Card back

Electrolytic Capacitor no1

Electrolytic Capacitor no2

Tantalum cap

Tantalum caps that beeping continuously are in blue boxes

Dried transparent material around the two leads of one of the two electrolytic cap

Buses passes through near the two legs of the electrolytic capacitor

Burn Examine 1

Burn Examine 2

Unknown elements 1

Destroyed base

Unknown element 2 (the right one is damaged)

new desolder components

Components with no Volt 1

Components with no Volt 2

⟐ Answer edited November 09, 2024 at 5:04 MST

It is a connector that connect the Audio Card with the front Interface. It is a 2x10 Pin Shrouded Header DIN 41651 RM 1.27mm.

I do not have the schematic of the Card and i do not have more information. How must i proceed with the fix ?

The problems I see are here :

The bent track was cut, and went to the 2nd top (from left) pin. Should I scratch all these burns? Should I isolate the lower large area of copper that has been revealed, so that it does not come into contact with anything around as well as with the Track that will pass over? (should I put UV Solder Mask Paint after repair?)

In the same area and on the back side, there is this track break:

And here should I clean up (scratch ) before reuniting the track? This little deformed metal ring was completely gone, but I found it and put it back on. The reverse side of the ring, as shown here (the second of the right, above) :

It doesn't go all the way out. Should I put solder?

And finally in this area :

which is very close to the tantalum capacitor that is burned, as you can see, to reunite the track that was cut with the pad of the voltage regulator, I inserted a zero resistance. A while ago I noticed how the area underneath is wet and is probably the flux. Resistor 000 seems to touch with the terminals of the lower regulator but does not touch (it is in the air) Does uncleaned flux cause a problem?

So my 2nd PC that I mainly use for watching movies/football on the big TV in living room requires a PSU upgrade. The original PSU, a CiT Pemtium 500u, has seemingly died (began making crackling/hissing sounds and won't power the motherboard any more) and I now need to replace the PSU with another.

The issue is I am not sure what PSUs will fit the case. The case is a CiT 1017. The main specs of the machine are as follows:

CPU: Intel i5 6600K

Cooler: Cryorig M9i

RAM: Corsair LPX 8GB 3000MHz

Motherboard: AsRock Z170 Extreme4

GPU: EVGA 1050Ti 4GB SC

I've found a potential replacement I'd like to buy for this PC. It is the Corsair CX550. It's currently £48 on Amazon UK. Would this PSU fit the CiT 1017 case? If not, what are my options? I don't really want to spend too much on this as it only needs a new PSU. I don't feel like upgrading the case as it would just add additional costs.

⟐ Commented July 19, 2024 at 21:26 MST

So I was randomly using one of my desktop PCs earlier today. I had just started the PC and was browsing on Google Chrome. All of a sudden, I started hearing a hissing noise coming from the back of the PC. Motherboard instantly switched off.

Upon trying to power it up, there was no response. I unplugged the power cable and plugged it back in. Soon after plugging the cable back in, the hissing noise came back and the LEDs on the motherboard and front case fan flickered before turning back off again. The noise stopped and trying to power it on via the front case power button gave no response. It becomes lifeless after the initial hissing noise/LED flashes.

I thought perhaps the power cable may have gone bad, so I got out a spare one I know works fine. So I tried the same thing again (simply plugging the cable in), this time paying close attention to the back of the PSU. I could see blue/orange flashes coming from inside the PSU along with the hissing noises. After this, I unplugged the power cable and didn't bother repeating the tests.

I'm planning to buy another PSU (I've been meaning to do it anyway). However, I am a little curious as to what's wrong with this PSU and I'm just wondering if it's an easy fix or not (just some bad caps or something else that's not overly complex).

I've opened up the PSU and carefully had a look around. I don't see any burn marks and the caps don't seem to be that bad-looking.

Here's some pics of the PSU (not the best quality):

I can take more images of the board if needed.

I did notice one thing after looking more around the board. It seems a resistor marked R50 was meant to be there, but has mostly vanished? See the below image:

As you can see in the above image, it looks like most of the R50 resistor has simply blown off/vanished. Could this be the problem? It's near a 16-pin IC marked "EST7502C".

Appreciate any help on this. I know it's not worth repairing, but I am still curious to see if it's actually a fixable fault.

⟐ Edited July 16, 2024 at 8:03 MST

lapcare DCX-A101 chillmate laptop cooler

⟐ Answered June 02, 2024 at 18:41 MST

⟐ Answer deleted September 13, 2021 at 0:47 MST