How do I reattach a ZIF latch with this odd port? Do I have to take the ports off and solder new ones on? I want to get my 3DS up and running again.

Here’s the images of the ‘damage’

Also, here’s how the latch should normally look while it’s on.

⟐ Commented May 18, 2026 at 8:15 MST

I took apart the system to replace the XYBA button contacts and then after putting it back together the system had an issue with turning on and then turning off with a pop. I have since fixed that problem by replugging some cables however now the system blue light turns on while nothing else does. If i charge the system the orange light will turn on but will immediately turn off upon turning the system on. If I remove the sd card the blue light turns off immediately instead

⟐ Commented May 17, 2026 at 21:27 MST

The Nintendo was shipped to me completely disassembled, so I reassembled it and replaced the top display (the flat panel was visibly damaged).

I charged the Nintendo and the charging LED lights up correctly, but after charging it for over an hour, the Nintendo won't turn on for any reason.

When connected to the power supply, pressing the power button turns the charging LED off and back on within a second; no flashing displays, no sound, nothing.

However, when running on battery power only, no LED lights up, not even for a moment.

I think I can rule out damage to one of the displays, since from what I know, if one of the two displays is damaged, a white flash should be visible on one of the displays.

I checked fuses F1 and F2, and they're OK.

I've unplugged and replugged all the flat cables and the wireless card, but the problem still persists.

The only oddity is the battery voltage. Specifically, when I insert the battery into the contacts, it reads 4.1V correctly. When I press the power button, the voltage drops to 0.85V and stays there until I remove and reinsert the battery, returning it to 4.1V.

I removed the SD card, and there's no play in the card slot.

I should point out that there's not the classic blue LED and black screen problem; no LEDs light up, except the charging LED.

Can anyone tell me what the problem might be? I've been stuck in this situation for days now, and there doesn't seem to be a way out.

Thank you all for your time.

⟐ Answered May 15, 2026 at 0:50 MST

Recently, I've decided to pick up my New 3DS to play some Picross, and noticed that it wouldn't power on. I tried charging it over night, but it still wouldn't work, I assume it never charged despite turning on the charge light.

I checked with a multimeter and the battery only showed 1.2v, so I'll assume it's dead dead.

As I've been waiting for a new battery to arrive, I've been playing it with a power bank attached.

Today, it arrived, and the 3DS doesn't turn on with it. It sees the battery, it shows it's fully charged, but when I unplug the power bank, it immediately shuts off.

I don't want to assume I have a new dead battery just yet, but I haven't opened it just yet.

Pertaining to the USB-C mod, it's only become an issue now, despite around a year of using it, it charged the battery just fine.

Edit: Here is a picture of my board and mod. It's not the best, but I'll get a better one when I can

Edit 2: I think I have found the issue... Those cables aren't meant to be crimped, are they?...

Edit 3: I have tested what I presume to be both F1 and F2 fuses (it's the ones surrounded) and they appear, at first glance, to be nominal. There's a slight voltage drop in the F2 fuse (from 4.3 to 3.7 volts), but not being sure about nominal voltages, I'm assuming they're fine.

⟐ Commented May 12, 2026 at 3:06 MST

⟐ Commented May 11, 2026 at 22:55 MST

⟐ Commented May 11, 2026 at 15:24 MST

⟐ Answered May 10, 2026 at 22:25 MST

⟐ Commented May 08, 2026 at 12:49 MST

Also, while not a big deal, the green "3D" LED no longer lights up after I opened up the 3DS. The 3D slider hasn't worked for years and the 3D is stuck on, but I don't want to risk fixing this if it requires heating and prying off the upper display front panel.

⟐ Commented May 06, 2026 at 17:48 MST

Current state:

• charging LED lights up with USB C connected
• power LED not reacting to the Power button
• new battery

As the battery is also new, I can rule that out. Any fuses I should check?

USB C mod solder picture:

⟐ Commented May 06, 2026 at 7:07 MST

⟐ Commented May 05, 2026 at 11:18 MST

not black like it was turn off but black we definitely see that it is turn on but won't show anything. (backlight working probably?)

I tried to hold the power 10 seconds and wait but the only image i can see is when I push the power button when it's on and it asks you if you are sure if you want to turn it off. From there, and from there only, I can push the home button and it shows the white screen telling you you're going to the home screen. but it is stuck there and won't go to the actual home screen.

I want to know what exactly is the problem here and if you know how to fix it i would be grateful.

thank you

⟐ Commented May 04, 2026 at 21:13 MST

⟐ Commented May 04, 2026 at 20:42 MST

My 2ds stopped working after leaving on sleep overnight. When I woke up and removed the sleep mode it stayed on but not image or sounds was given. I also could not turn off the 2ds by any means.

I left it on until the battery runned out and fully charged it the next day.

Now it just doesn't turn back on no matter what I do.

⟐ Answered May 03, 2026 at 22:37 MST

I'm aware that if the blue light flashes on then back off again, it has something to do with ribbon cable issues, which I'm more than aware of. But I have a few concerns: namely, which cable?

The most pressing issue is that the cable connecting the joystick to the main board isn't seated properly. I ordered a few replacements so hopefully the little plastic latch letting the joystick cable seat into the mobo will fix my problems, but I've also tried the bathtub moonshine solution of electrical tape over said cable and it still wouldn't boot: not surprising, it seemed to be misaligned each time I tried it.

One thing worries me though: this little black cable at the top. All the other ribbon cables and connectors appear to be intact, but because this was the first time fully breaking down a N3DSXL, I fear I may have roughed this (particularly delicate) cable up too much and will need to replace it. Can anyone confirm or deny my concerns so I know what to replace if the plastic latch doesn't fix the issue? Every other ribbon cable seems to be in good condition and seated properly.

⟐ Commented May 02, 2026 at 15:43 MST

⟐ Commented May 01, 2026 at 19:38 MST

There's definitely some corrosion on the board in the bottom left. I didn't want to scrub too much away yet though, since it looks like maybe the surface of the board is cracked? Is that cleanable?

One of the pins in the cartridge slot, all the way on the right when the back cover of the GBP is off, is higher than the others. Is this normal?

Any thoughts or insights are much appreciated!

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 22:11 MST

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 8:42 MST

I believe i broke a locking ribbon cable on my upper 3ds xl screen. Specifically the annoying one of three in the top right corner and now i cant get it to lock down. I used UV glue in the meantime but now my 3ds intermittently turns off every once in awhile. How can i fix this without buying a whole new 3ds?

⟐ Answered April 29, 2026 at 5:29 MST

⟐ Answered April 29, 2026 at 0:38 MST