So I've tried cleaning the sensor with rubbing alcohol, and cleaning the sliding rails, but it hasn't fixed it. I'm including links to show the problem and the controller.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjuAwwVhXweQkAmUD8Qd... - link to controller monitoring

https://imgur.com/a/0ZGXOI4 - link to inside the controller

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti... - link on how it affects games

⟐ Commented March 17, 2025 at 3:43 MST

it seems my Gamecube controller stops working after a while.

Strangly, I can move the analog stick freely forever, but once I press 'A','X','Y' or 'B' button, the controller stops working very soon after.

I am wondering if anyone had that problem. Thanks in advance for your help !

⟐ Answered September 01, 2024 at 0:27 MST

I used the light but yet I don't know which hole I should use @dadibrokeit

⟐ Answer accepted July 23, 2024 at 12:48 MST

Being somebody who plays Super Smash Bros. Melee, my GameCube controller (DOL-003) really takes a beating. Keep in mind this is the "Bundled in the Box" original controller that came with my GameCube years ago. With the intense game play associated with the game, my joysticks have suffered quite a bit. I continued use with the original controller to the point where the original joysticks failed. When I talk about the joysticks, I mean the actual component on the circuit board that takes that mechanical input and turns it into an electric input. So I looked for a replacement and found some cheap things on ebay.

When I first got my joysticks, they seemed pretty nice, they were a more firm feeling joystick than the spongier ones on the original controller. I used my knowledge of soldering to remove the old ones and replace them with the new ones. Each joystick had six connections, three for both axis of control. Only problem is that the original ones on the controller used a screw mounting system where as these ones used a soldered connection to keep it in place. That means the new ones had ten connections; it still had the six connections for the axis control, but it had four extra connections for mounting to the board. These four extra connections didn't fit in the old board, so I had to remove them. This setup worked for a short period of time until one of them broke. Trust me, they are cheap, garbage that break after a month or two of use. You'd think it would have broke because those four support connections are gone, but what actually happened was the mechanical connection to the electrical component on the Y-axis broke. Essentially the joystick can only do side-to-side motion, but not up and down.

So, now I am in this situation where I can't find a suitable replacement, and there is no way I am about to drop $50+ on a new genuine controller, or get a used one. How do I find the same joysticks that match the original but are new? (OEM). I have looked all over the place, and have had no luck. If you are able to tell me where to get such joysticks, it would be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Answer edited September 14, 2023 at 10:48 MST

⟐ Commented July 22, 2023 at 22:18 MST

edit: added images of internals

⟐ Answered July 18, 2023 at 16:10 MST

I was wondering if Gamecube parts are complatable at all.

Thank you!

⟐ Answered October 20, 2022 at 15:50 MST

I have a Wii I explicitly bought to use as a Component Gamecube, due to the cost of actual Gamecube component cables. I may use it for Wii games, but I also didn’t even use the one from 2007 for games most of the time and that was a shared Wii.

The controllers work, but the grips have always been gone as long as I have owned them. I tolerate it, but now I think I’m going to use it enough to justify rebuilding the grips.

I am looking at trying white Sugru or an epoxy stick and matte spray paint to fill this in best I can and make it look flush. Either way, I will need to sand it.

Out of both of these materials, which one would be cheaper to use while still working as a filler? I don’t know what type of plastic they are (iconcepts game fury) but I know clone controllers enough to suspect ABS.

⟐ Commented April 12, 2022 at 10:20 MST

Left hand shoulder button:

Controller Inside:

Back of Controller (Left Side)

⟐ Answered February 07, 2022 at 7:07 MST

I have an original nintendo gamecube controller whose right trigger button registers when pressed down completely, but the analog component does not register at all. When I use a program to calibrate my controller while connected to my computer, no signal is detected. This holds even when the shell is removed and the analog component is manually moved. Here is a picture of the motherboard. What could be the problem?

⟐ Answer edited November 04, 2021 at 9:23 MST

⟐ Commented February 22, 2020 at 18:05 MST

⟐ Answer unaccepted February 12, 2020 at 6:08 MST

⟐ Answered November 23, 2019 at 11:37 MST