Translation Persian → English

The problem with my remote is the buttons; how can I fix it

The buttons on my remote are unresponsive, and it isn't working.

⟐ Edited July 02, 2026 at 8:03 MST

⟐ Edited April 28, 2026 at 18:33 MST

⟐ Edited April 20, 2026 at 8:15 MST

⟐ Edited by author February 03, 2026 at 10:02 MST

Also, how can I replace the jack to plug headphones?

كل أزرار لا تعمل إلا زرواحدوهو

⟐ Commented October 23, 2025 at 0:16 MST

I asked two GPU repair services and was declined by both, as they consider the card too old and cheap. I still think the problem might be something fairly basic that perhaps even I could fix. Seems worth a shot, as I have nothing to lose at this point.

Model: PowerColor RX 550 4 GB Low Profile

This exact one: https://www.powercolor.com/product-detai...

Symptoms:

• Card seems to work properly, producing clean signal on both outputs.
• Meanwhile, fan is not spinning.  Even when running 3D benchmark, fan does not spin.  Pushed fan with finger, still doesn't start, although I felt no mechanical resistance.
• Benchmarks run much too slowly, compared to other cards of the same model, even when cooled by another fan and temps are in the reasonable range. The GPU seems to know its power budget is nearly exhausted, hence shader clocks never ramp up.
• Software reporting claims high idle power: 32 Watts with both display outputs connected @ 60 Hz.  The max power for this card is only 50 W.
• After disconnecting fan, idle power drops to 25 Watts.  Still way too high.  Disconnecting second output drops idle power to 16 - 18 W.  Other RX 550 have an idle power of 4 W, and that's with the fan running!

No visible signs of damage, scorch marks, melted components, or missing chips.  Card appears pristine. No dust, even after removing shroud.

How the card is reporting power usage makes me wonder if it might be some defective or failed component in the card's VRM. The base power started way too high and each time I reduced the electrical load (i.e. disconnecting fan, disconnecting second monitor output), the reported power usage dropped by an amount that was similarly too large.

Is there any reference I could follow to narrow down any failed discrete component? I have a 15-year-old CPU/motherboard and out-of-service PSU I can use on the test bench, which I don't mind losing, if I accidentally short something while trouble-shooting. As for repair equipment, I pretty much only have a multimeter and soldering iron. Took an intro to electronics class at a community college, many years ago.

⟐ Commented August 12, 2025 at 19:46 MST

⟐ Commented August 01, 2025 at 23:56 MST

⟐ Commented May 25, 2025 at 20:16 MST

I haven't seen anyone post a tapstrap teardown, and was thinking this would be a good opportunity to provide a tutorial to the forum, but, I'm not terribly experienced with doing a proper teardown, and the device is small/really tightly sealed.

So my question is 2 part I suppose:

A. Does anyone else have a tap strap teardown guide i may have missed? (Or experience with tapstrap repair, including if it isn't worth it/ feasible)

B. Would anyone be interested/able to assist in a remote teardown "mentorship"? Would prefer to reduce risk of damage to the device/components.

The alternative is to return it (ebay) for a refund. In the worst case (i damage it beyond repair), I could potential salvage the parts for other electronics projects, potentially. So, I'm okay with failure, and may proceed solo regardless.

⟐ Edited December 04, 2024 at 1:33 MST

I am hoping there is somewhere in Sydney Australia we can send them to for them to be fixed??

Please find attached pics of what I am talking about!!

Am guessing there are loose wires inside….they are not broken on the outside just on the inside!