Long story short: She has lived on 3rd-7th generation Microsoft Surface devices because the one true painless keyboard for her is the one on the Surface 3 Pro Type Cover. She has used this keyboard and not anything made more recently. All was fine until...The release of the Surface 8 line. As of the Surface 8, the connector design has changed. With that, she has not been able to upgrade her machine since.

My mission (or yours if you choose to accept it) is to find/construct an adapter such that an older Surface Keyboard can be connected to a recent model Microsoft Surface.

Difficulty? Expense? Pointers?

ADVThanksANCE

⟐ Edited by author December 03, 2024 at 2:15 MST

The device powers up, fans running, surface logo shows up and just stays there for minutes. Sometimes for no reason at all it will boot eventually and sometimes not. As there is no post screen I cannot tell why.

Things I have tried so far:

• Reinstalling Windows 10 and all updates
• Installing Ubuntu just to make sure
• Wiping the surface by MS Surface Data Eraser (https://docs.microsoft.com/de-de/surface...)
• Resetting UEFI settings
• Reboots with volume up/down
• with keyboard attached / unattached with external display and so on…
• biting nails, raindances, voodoo, screaming…

I do not think that the BIOS or UEFI for that matters is fubar OR the SSD is dead as the system generelly does boot but takes ages to do so.

Any hints on how to make sure without disassambling it?

After going crazy for a while, I noticed how warped the case was, as well as a bit warmer than typical. It was not super hot, but warmer. Playing with it a bit I found that straightening the case manually, caused the light on the cord or the dock to relight and the system functions to work fine. Alternatively, I can press the screen in just over the power cord connector area and cause the power to reconnect, as well.

The repair of this condition seems to indicate a repositioning of the power connector in the SP 3, itself, due to the extra heat warping the case further than usual. I tried filing down the power cord connector so I could reposition it a bit, but that approach did not seem to reconnect the power like straightening the case or pressing on the power connector area accomplished. Also, if I leave the unit in the dock with power connected to it, and the SP 3 off for a period, it will reconnect to the dock and the charge light will go on again. To me, it seems to point at the connection of the power connector to the board or, possibly a missing spacer piece at that junction. However, that should keep the power from connecting at all, by all accounts I’ve read.

I am loath to take another SP 3 screen off as I broke the last on after taking 2/3rds of it off with no problem. Then, I ran into similar problems another adventurer your list had in not getting the replacement screen working after removal of his. I bought a used on one that costs about the same as a new screen, and now I have a power problem to deal with. :(

Any suggestions from iFixit or other adventurous owners??

Thanks!

⟐ Commented November 27, 2020 at 17:32 MST

Besides the screen, my surface was operational right before screen replacement.

What else can I verify to make sure nothing else is damaged?

⟐ Reopened March 21, 2022 at 4:42 MST

⟐ Reopened June 18, 2019 at 6:56 MST

Did I short out the circuit? Or is there some kind of current protection in place.

I'm in the process of replacing a screen on a Surface Pro 3, and it seems I have misplaced the connector that goes between the LCD cable and the logic board. I have tried finding replacements online but have had no luck. Anyone have any suggestions on where I could find one?

The following link is the exact part I am looking for:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Thanks

I had a surface pro 3 screen come in with cracked glass, and a malfunctioning touch panel, but was getting an image.

I ordered in a new screen, and preformed the repair. We started by turning off the device, and put it into a mobile dryer (RG-202F), as we do with many other tablets. Once the adhesive was loosened, we removed the display assembly from the frame. Before disconnecting any of the screen's flex cables, we began by removing the battery flex. we disconnected it, and put thermal tape around the connectors to prevent any accidental short on the screen, or housing of the device. We then continued with the procedure, by disconnecting The two Assembly Flex Cables. We transferred the Primary Display Flex, to the new screen, and applied the screen to the flexes to the board. only then, did we reapply the battery. Now, on attempting to boot the device, we get no image.

At first, i thought it was solely a dead battery, so i attempted to charge it up. The charger lights up with its LED on the side, and the device will let me charge my phone, even while disconnected from the AC Adapter. the device appears to boot, however, we are unable to test an external display, as the HDMI out port seems to have been damaged from the initial drop. We have tried two screen assemblies, as well as the original screen, and it does not get an image on any of them. We have insured the revision and part number match, and that the alignment of the Pin Extension Pads is correct. We are unable to figure out what caused this failure, as the procedure followed, has been the same as every other time we have done a surface. I have personally scanned the board for physical issues, and have seen no scorching, or chipping on components, and every component appears to be in place. There is no physical damage to the PCB either. From what i can tell, There is no issue with the backlight itself, as when holding it into the daylight, i do not see even the faintest image on the device.

I have run the device's LCD connector diode rating checks, and they are all comparable to the device's thresholds.

If somebody out there has experienced this before, and has had the luxury of fixing it, i would very much like them to get back to me with the process that they followed to do so. this is stumping our store, and we would like to get this back to the customer ASAP.

steve@stevesapato.com

qlman49#gmail.com

⟐ Commented April 29, 2018 at 4:03 MST

Does anyone have any advice for replacing the plastic top of the sp3 chassis? I have two chassis - one with the plastic top piece missing but otherwise good and the other with a broken Aluminium corner.

Thanks

Justin

⟐ Commented January 18, 2018 at 12:27 MST

⟐ Commented August 27, 2017 at 23:35 MST

Where do I get a replacement?

Thanks

Lewis

From the info i've gathered, all OEM batteries suffer from this problem whether its SDI, Simplo (SDI/simplo may be the same company) or LG, all have been reported as discharging long before they're due.

I have seen some other manufacturers on amazon (VPN, ZTHY) , but i know that from when i purchased replacement cell phone batteries that no-name or mystery-name manufacturers can sometimes be worse than just buying another OEM thats known defective out of box and hoping for best.

Anyone who has replaced their battery please let me know which route you went and if you'd do it again.

Thanks in advance,