⟐ Commented March 12, 2026 at 12:41 MST

⟐ Answered March 04, 2026 at 1:36 MST

⟐ Commented February 02, 2026 at 17:26 MST

What can i do in this case is it possible you fix?

⟐ Edited January 10, 2026 at 16:30 MST

The detach button on the keyboard is constantly lit red and I can't detach the tablet from the keyboard.

I tried the one button and two button methods described by Microsoft to reset the device without success.

The device appears dead if it was not for the red detach light.

Is there another way to hard reset the device or to make it reboot?

⟐ Commented January 10, 2026 at 9:52 MST

I am no stranger to this issue over my 2 years of using this computer. Usually I have to just clean the connectors and it works again. If that doesn’t solve the problem right there, a hard reset (power + volume up held for 30 seconds) usually resolves this. Also I can tell it’s the connectors because moving the laptop around or adjusting the screen pivot usually triggers the issue reliably before I clean it.

However this time I am stumped. I have cleaned the connectors (both the keyboard and computer side) thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. The screen can attach fine no problem and everything is working. Moving the monitor around, shaking the laptop, gentle taps, don’t trigger any upset to the connection. However the computer is now attaching and detaching constantly regardless of the conditions (moving or not moving).

The timing of this can be as fast as 10 seconds apart and as slow as 5 minutes apart between attaching/detaching interruptions. When it is ‘detached’ on many occasions the keyboard and mouse still work. Other times it actually interrupts their functionality.

Things I tried:

• hard reset multiple times
• cleaning thoroughly the connectors
• making sure windows is updated
• making sure drivers are updated

Only thing I haven’t done yet is a full hard reset. Looking to get my files/programs in order to do a full wipe and hope for the best.

The computer was working perfectly until after one quick site visit where I reattached the keyboard and used it as a bulky tablet. Right after I put it back into it’s original laptop form, the issue popped up. I keep thinking it’s physical but I am not sure what the cause could be. My highest suspicion revolves around the cable that runs along the hinge of the keyboard, connecting it to the pins (only a suspicion, I am not sure as tilting the monitor doesn’t cause any detaching issues directly). But I am at a loss as to how to check or deal with that.

Sorry for the long description but if there are any thoughts I can try I would love to hear them. I am out of warranty so dealing with Microsoft is a no go.

Thank you!

⟐ Commented December 25, 2025 at 1:17 MST

My Surface Book 3 was no longer powering up, so I removed the screen manually using a paper clip and i noticed the port connecting the keyboard to the screen is burned. Anyone had this issue? Is this repairable?

Thanks!

⟐ Answered November 24, 2025 at 4:50 MST

⟐ Commented November 14, 2025 at 4:11 MST

Recently my surface book downloaded an automatic firmware update which bricked my device. Microsoft are denying responsibilty so I am looking into alternative ways of fixing it (there’s a whole thread about the issue linked here, several others have the exact same issue)

So I have two questions:

1. Would it be possible to reset the bios by unplugging the main battery inside? (Similar to removing a cmos battery on a desktop motherboard)
2. If the above answer is no, or a reset does not work - which chip contains the bios on the surface book (As I saw there were several flash chips on the teardown guide) and where could I get a suitable replacement?

Thank you in advance!

⟐ Commented September 05, 2025 at 20:04 MST

⟐ Answer edited August 04, 2025 at 14:57 MST

• Replaced both batteries (in the screen and keyboard base) with new ones, but no change.
• Replaced the charging port and the screen-to-keyboard connector, but the issue persists.
• Visually inspected the motherboard for damage (burn marks, broken traces) but haven’t found anything obvious yet.
• Confirmed the charger works (LED lights up, correct voltage measured at the port).

The device still functions normally when powered on, but the battery does not charge, and there’s no indication of charging in Windows. Also, there seems to be no connection to the keyboard because it doesn't come up on screen and doesn't respond too inputs. I’m comfortable with soldering and have tools like a multimeter, hot air rework station, and microscope.

Could the short circuit have damaged the charging controller IC, a fuse, or another component on the motherboard? Any suggestions on which components to test (e.g., specific fuses, diodes ) or how to trace the charging circuit? Schematics or pinouts would be a bonus if anyone has them. Thanks for any insights!

⟐ Commented June 03, 2025 at 10:31 MST

I have two Microsoft Surface Books, a 1st Gen 13.5" one with Performance Base and a 2nd Gen 15" with Nvidia GPU both of which are in DIRE™️ ( and I mean it ) need of a having all of their Battery Packs replaced.

I've watched a bunch of Videos how to get into both the Tablet and Keyboard portion of the devices using heat ( iOpener, Fan, Heat Gun, etc... ) to soften up the Adhesive Strips running all along the Perimeters of the LCD and the Bottom Lid - For this reason I ordered myself an iOpener and a Clampy.

Now... I've ALSO seen one Video from what looked like a Repair Shop using a Liquid being dispensed into the Gap which I ASSUME to have been IPA... Any thoughts on the use of IPA concerning the LCD Panel and / or while still connected to one of the Batteries? Any thoughts on using IPA IN COMBINATION with the usual Heat Method?

I'd also be needing new adhesive Strips to reassemble everything back together and while there's plenty of sources to be found for the Tablet portion of the Books there doesn't appear to any for the Keyboard one? Any suggestions on where to source those or what to use instead?

Thanks in advance! =)

⟐ Answered May 07, 2025 at 9:35 MST

• Device name: DESKTOP-D6RJN6O
• Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-8650U CPU @ 1.90GHz, 2112 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)
• Installed RAM: 8.00 GB
• Device ID:
• Product ID:
• System type: 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor
• Pen and touch Pen and touch support with 10 touch points

When I check my display adapters it indicates both

• Intel(R) UHD Graphics 620
• NVDIA GeForce GTX 1050

Under System Information this is the information.

• OS Name: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro
• Version: 10.0.22631 Build 22631
• System Manufacturer: Microsoft Corporation
• System Model: Surface Book 2
• System Type: x64-based PC
• System SKU: Surface_Book_1832
• Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-8650U CPU @ 1.90GHz, 2112 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)

Which battery is the right one for my Surface Book 2?

1) Surface Book 2 13.5" 1835 Keyboard Base Battery

Surface Book 2 (1835) and 3 13.5" Keyboard Base Battery

2) Surface Book 2 13.5" 1834/ 1832 Keyboard Base Battery

https://www.batterymall.com/products/g3h...

Thanks for your help.

⟐ Commented May 01, 2025 at 22:26 MST

thanks

⟐ Commented April 16, 2025 at 17:39 MST

⟐ Commented March 10, 2025 at 10:04 MST

It is my first question in ifixit forum, so if I've chosen a wrong place, please inform and guide me.

You probably know that on the below edge of a Surface Book tablet is located its connector. On the right and left side of tablet (on below edge), there are 2 holes and in the middle, there is a socket like connector that you can charge your tablet through that directly and also it has the responsibility of data transfer.

In overall we have 5 different Surface Books, I want to know that are the connectors of all these 5, the same completely? and if not, what are the differences?

In another word can I exchange a Surface Book 3 (13.5") tablet connector with a Surface Book 1 (13.5") tablet and etc.

And how about the connectors on the top edge of keyboard?

I understand the keyboard Battery may have died of age, if that's the case, I'll replace it.

but my problem is that the Tablet battery won't charge if I plug the charger in the keyboard port, though the indicator light comes on, the percentage won't increase.

it'll charge only if I eject the Tablet and plug it in directly,

My question is, Is it because of the faulty keyboard Battery or charger or something wrong with the keyboard base?

will replacing the keyboard battery fix it?

⟐ Commented January 17, 2025 at 9:48 MST

⟐ Answer edited December 17, 2024 at 20:42 MST