I'm assuming the actual issue of compatibility is the different style of stem that has a thread to screw the Elite series thumbstick cover on. If that is the case, then my second question is if it is possible to replace the stem of the Gulikit thumbstick with the stems from Elite thumbsticks or not? I would really like to be able to replace the thumbsticks with TMR type if possible. The product page states that lack of calibration software is the issue, but I believe that is incorrect and the real problem is the stem difference. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone that has attempted this or knows enough about the TMR joysticks to know if they can be modified to fit the Elite 2. Thanks.

⟐ Commented August 28, 2026 at 17:24 MST

⟐ Commented August 28, 2026 at 15:15 MST

I need to know if i can simply go to any hardwear store and request a spring of that sizing, or is it something I need to find online(unfortunatly I did not see it on ifixit.com). If it is possible, I would be willing to make my own, but just don't know which material(s) would work best.

Thanks for your time :)

⟐ Commented August 28, 2026 at 1:10 MST

Now the pairing button does nothing. Using the Xbox app to go into settings and try pairing it doesn't work either. When I use a USB-C cable that works fine with my PC and controller, nothing happens. I took the Xbox apart and reseated the accessory board. When I pressed the pairing button, it flashed for a second and then stopped.

Between when it first broke and now, the Xbox sat unplugged for a few weeks. I tried updating both the Xbox and the controller, but that didn't help. The controller, as well as two others I tried, work perfectly fine with my PC over the same cable.

I also tried unplugging everything external just to test it: no fan, no disc drive, no front-panel USB, and no accessory module. Still nothing. There is no change in behavior. It won't sync over a cable or wirelessly.

When I plug the controller in, it vibrates once. If I press the Xbox button, it turns on but just keeps flashing as if it's searching for something to connect to.

Does anybody have any idea what could be causing this? $800 for a new one is a rip-off, and I really don't want to buy a used one filled with weed smoke for $400 on eBay when I bought this one new for $500 a few years ago.

⟐ Commented August 28, 2026 at 1:00 MST

⟐ Commented August 27, 2026 at 19:07 MST

⟐ Commented August 27, 2026 at 12:40 MST

⟐ Answered August 26, 2026 at 23:25 MST

⟐ Commented August 26, 2026 at 1:10 MST

The problem is, the console has no power. Doesn't respond to power button, eject button, stays off. PSU led is always orange. Here are the things i found: 1.8V standby is okay, 3.3V is okay too, at the power plug from pin 1-3 there is 0V, from pin4-7 there's 0.2V, that grows to 0.3V if plugged in, SMC_RESET_N at J2B1 PIN 6 is always low, no matter what, its at 0V. I tried to power it with my lab psu so i could find whether there's a short (thats potentially feeding back to the power connectors) but nothing. Still no life. The 3.3V is there at the RF Board so that's not the problem, the RF board also work on another motherboard. Already tried to reflow the NAND, Southbridge, and ANA to no success yet. Any ideas what could cause this? I'd appreciate any help! Thanks for reading!

EDIT: Forgot to mention, that i measured connectivity between J2B1 Pin 6, and all the points that are mentioned being connected to SMC_RESET_N, and all seems fine.

Pictures of no POST board:

Pictures of board that POSTS:

⟐ Commented August 25, 2026 at 1:32 MST

Hello everyone,

I have an Xbox One X with the original 1TB Seagate HDD (ST1000LM035).

I am trying to determine whether my problem is caused by the HDD itself, corrupted Xbox partitions/system files, or possibly the SATA connection.

The Xbox behaves normally at first:

• The Home screen works normally.
• The web browser works normally.
• I can browse and watch YouTube through the browser without the console freezing.
• However, when I open the YouTube app, Microsoft Store, or other applications that require more disk activity, the console gradually becomes extremely slow.
• Eventually it may respond to only one or two button presses, or the screen may turn black.
• The problem becomes progressively worse rather than happening immediately.

I performed an Offline System Update / reset using a USB flash drive.

After the process completed, the Xbox initially behaved normally. My account and Home screen appeared normally again, almost as if everything had returned to its previous state.

However, after using the console again, the same freezing problem returned.

This makes me wonder whether the problem could be related to the HDD's partitions/file system rather than simply the Xbox OS installation.

The HDD is:

Seagate ST1000LM035 — 1TB, 2.5-inch SATA

I have removed it from the Xbox and I am considering completely wiping it from a PC and rebuilding the Xbox One X partitions from scratch.

However, I do NOT want to erase the drive unnecessarily if the HDD itself is failing.

1. Does this behavior strongly suggest a failing HDD?
2. Could corrupted Xbox partitions or file-system problems cause exactly these symptoms?
3. Does an Xbox Offline System Update completely recreate the HDD partitions, or can existing partition/GPT problems remain?
4. Should I first connect the HDD to a Windows PC and check its SMART data and surface/sector health?
5. If the HDD is healthy, what is the correct way to completely rebuild the Xbox One X HDD

#

I would really appreciate advice from someone experienced with Xbox One X HDD replacement/recovery and its partition structure before I erase the drive.

Thank you!

⟐ Answered August 24, 2026 at 10:12 MST

⟐ Answer edited August 23, 2026 at 23:14 MST

This is a very common problem that Microsoft will not discuss.

⟐ Commented August 20, 2026 at 9:13 MST

⟐ Commented August 19, 2026 at 11:06 MST

I also extracted system recovery logs showing repeated Optical Disc Drive (ODD) failures:

FAILED to find ODD physical device, status = 0xc000000E. GetOddPhysicalDevice failed.
COddDevice::_Open failed!
Odd open failed, retry in one second...

• Update always stops at 61% (online and offline USB update both fail),
  disk drive shows no mechanical activity (no spin, no motor response)
• Console still detects disc presence state (inserted / not inserted correctly)
• Eject button works (UI sound response)
• The console does not boot when the disc drive is disconnected

• Reseated all internal disk drive connections
• Full power cycle
• Offline system update via USB (OSU1)
• Tested without external USB storage
• Verified behavior with no disc inserted

The console was working normally before this update attempt. The failure always happens at the same stage (61%), which seems to coincide with ODD initialization.

Has anyone seen this exact combination of:

• Update freeze at 61%
• E100 00000703 80910002 error
• ODD physical device failure (0xc000000E)
• Drive detected logically, but not mechanically active

Is this more likely a firmware/drive pairing issue, or a hardware failure of the disk drive or the motherboard communication line?

⟐ Answered August 19, 2026 at 9:58 MST

I made sure to remove the board from the original console’s disc tray and solder it on to the replacement one. All seemed just fine but I’m new to soldering and console repairs in general.

It worked a treat and now I have a working disc tray that opens and closes and reads discs fine.

My only issue is that sometimes when I put a disc in it will say “Play DVD”. Every time this has happened I can open the tray, adjust the disc a little and then it will read and load the game fine.

My question is what is the likely cause of the play dvd issue? Could it be a shoddy solder job with the wires on the board?

Does the laser need adjusting or cleaning?

It doesn’t seem to be a serious problem because I can always get games to play but if I can eliminate the issue that would be great.

⟐ Commented August 18, 2026 at 5:09 MST

Even with EVERYTHING unplugged, it doesn’t work.

when I press ON the light turns on and you can hear the chime. The fan doesn’t attempt to start and then there’s a whine from what looks like a regulator?

Turns off within a second.

Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/Q5DRvWrYetA?s...

⟐ Answered August 18, 2026 at 3:25 MST

⟐ Commented August 16, 2026 at 2:53 MST

⟐ Answered August 15, 2026 at 16:24 MST

⟐ Answer accepted August 14, 2026 at 16:25 MST

⟐ Answered August 13, 2026 at 4:49 MST