I'm writing wikis for home appliance repair and keep running into recommending continuity and resistance testing to validate whether a part is still working. I'm listing both acceptable or typical values for different load and non-load elements. Load elements meaning any component that consumes power, and non-load meaning unrestricted paths for electricity. Here are typical values of generic and specific elements.

Load Elements:

• heating elements (0-120Ω)
  • ice maker mold heater (60-80Ω)
  • Samsung defrost Heater (120Ω)
  • Whirlpool Defrost Heater (88Ω)
• solenoids (on/off > 10Ω, and regulating < 10Ω)
• motors (10-200Ω)
  • Ice Maker Motor (400-600Ω)
  • Ice Maker Auger Motor (5-50Ω)
  • submersible pumps (2MΩ)
  • Dishwasher Drain Pump (15-40Ω)
  • Circulation Pump (10-100Ω)
• Fridge Compressor (1-50Ω)
• Water Inlet Valve (500-1.5KΩ)

Non-Load Elements:

• switches (0Ω- OL)
• Bi-metal switch (0-1Ω)
• thermostats (and thermistors 2-220KΩ...simply check continuity)
• fuses (<1Ω)

Future troubleshooters thank you in advance for Load vs Non-Load Element Resistance Values! Feel free to contribute more values in the comments or answers below.

⟐ Edited by author April 17, 2023 at 14:08 MST

⟐ Answered June 20, 2024 at 2:11 MST

Some time ago my OS4100 started giving me problems, the tracks started to fade until they disappeared completely. After an initial check I realized that the diodes of the voltage multiplier were damaged together with the capacitors of the power supply and the MJE3055 transistor of the oscillator. Once everything was replaced it started working again but it only displays one point on the screen and when you move the various time switches it doesn't change. Despite the service manual I'm still at a standstill. Can anyone give me some advice? A thousand thanks