Can someone tell me what the problem could be?

HI Mayer, that’s exactly the type of fuse I used. Based on the information provided, do you think the issue is with the heating element (it turns on very hot soon as i plug in, even with the fuse out), the thermostat, or something else ?

⟐ Commented April 18, 2026 at 21:35 MST

Looks like the cool-down cycle has quit working.

Clothes come out too hot to handle…worried about fire.

( lint is always kept cleaned out after every load )

( External discharge vent is kept clean, is venting full force )

⟐ Commented March 10, 2026 at 20:24 MST

⟐ Edited March 08, 2026 at 20:24 MST

Circuit breaker appears to work fine (not “tripped” and does turn dryer on/off)

Outlet tests correctly (~120V at both terminals)

Inside the dryer

Heating element and heater box:

Heating element has continuity between the two terminals and no continuity between either terminal and the body (ground).

Thermal cut off and High Limit Thermostat (both on heater box) have continuity between the two terminals and no continuity at either terminal and the heater box (ground) .

Blower housing:

Thermal fuse has continuity between the two terminals and no continuity at either terminal and ground.

Thermistor has about 15k Ohms of resistance and drops very quickly when heated with a hair dryer.

When I put it all back together….it worked fine, until several months later (now).  It is back to running as expected but no heat.  I took everything apart and everything tested as before.

I entered the diagnostic mode; there are no error codes shown and there are no errors stored.

In the encoder test, all keys work as expected.  They turn off as I press each key.

The automatic test cycle appears to run correctly, except there is no heat.  It runs with “Enc” displayed for several minutes, then “but” displayed for several minutes, then turns itself off.

Any ideas why the dryer will not heat? Thanks

⟐ Commented February 08, 2026 at 10:01 MST

⟐ Commented January 26, 2026 at 22:38 MST

⟐ Answered November 29, 2025 at 9:28 MST

⟐ Answer edited February 17, 2026 at 12:03 MST

The only trouble code displaying in diagnostic mode was F04E04, which indicates insufficient power. I confirmed the outlet was providing the correct voltage and inspected the breaker, outlet, power cord, and terminal block, and found nothing abnormal. I Googled and asked ChatGPT and Gemini, no clear path forward for that trouble code.

I opened up the whole unit and cleaned out all of the built up lint, checked the exhaust tube even though I clean that yearly, and replaced the thermal cut off/thermal fuse, because the local repair shop said that was a common fix for most issues. No change.

I found a brand new control board for $50 so I decided to throw that in there. No change.

Then I decided to Google how to fix an overheating dryer, which produced a ton of good resources. I followed testing guides and determined my cycling thermostat was opening at far too high a temperature, but just to be sure I also replaced the thermistor. No change.

At this point I've cleaned the whole unit and replaced the cycling/high limit thermostat, thermal cut off, thermistor, and thermal fuse.

Next, I decide to replace the heating element, and found that the old one was cracked and a portion of the metal plate in-between the coils was bent and extremely close to the coil. I figured that when it heated up, the coil may be grounding out on the metal plate and shutting off the machine; and, that once it cooled off and was no longer contacting the plate, I could restart it.

But, even with the new element. No change.

I have unloaded the parts cannon on this thing, inspected the unit inside and out, and yet it continues to shut off at least twice during a cycle and I can't manually restart it for at least 10 minutes. The F04E04 code went away for a little while but is present again now.

Anyone have any ideas before I go dryer shopping?

Thank you

⟐ Edited September 06, 2025 at 20:33 MST

Thank you so much for the quick response. My dryer is a Maytag Bravos XL MEDB835DW3 and is 14 months old.

⟐ Commented August 31, 2025 at 18:40 MST

So, I ordered the parts and put them on today and turned it on. Heats up just fine but seems to be really hot at the top of the heat box ( too hot to touch after just a couple minutes). Just wondering if there is something I'm missing or that may be causing this problem.

The vent is blowing out hot air and the lint system has been thoroughly cleaned.

⟐ Edited August 30, 2025 at 0:30 MST

Hi, how are you? I have a Maytag dryer. Brand new out of the box, brought from Canada. The sensing detection feature starts and then stops after 10 seconds. Here are two pictures: one of the model and one of the issue. I was told there are only two electronic components. I need to know which one would solve this problem? Main electronic board W11618917 and panel board W11406679.

⟐ Commented July 23, 2025 at 17:25 MST

⟐ Commented July 10, 2025 at 18:36 MST

⟐ Commented April 30, 2025 at 7:25 MST

⟐ Commented December 30, 2024 at 7:21 MST

⟐ Answer accepted December 03, 2024 at 19:26 MST

⟐ Answer edited October 30, 2024 at 1:24 MST

I took a video while it was doing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmFfmjOA...

I had scheduled service for it, since it’s under warranty, and of course the problem went away the day before the tech was supposed to come. The tech didn’t show up for the scheduled appointment anyway (sigh). They haven’t contacted me at all, and I’m trying to decide if I should reschedule. If there’s something that should be fixed, I definitely want to do it under the remaining few months of my warranty, but I’m not sure what they would do if they come when it’s not manifesting the problem. Given that it takes almost two weeks to get an appointment, and it seems to fix itself after a while, I’m not sure how much luck I’ll have getting a tech here at the same time it’s doing it, should it happen again.

I’m pretty handy and don’t mind taking it apart, but I have no idea what I might look for since there’s nothing happening right now. Or maybe I shouldn’t even worry, but in my experience there aren’t many mechanical problems that just appear once and go away forever.

So - is anyone able to identify what might have been wrong from the video, and why it might have “fixed itself”?

⟐ Commented July 01, 2024 at 12:40 MST

Hi all,

The issue is resolved (for now). The root cause was the CCU / Main Board.

during all the tests I noticed strange marks on the drum due to harness rubbing on it, I figured out the hardness should not be routed that way beside the drums being pushed down all the time by the drum turning clockwise. One of the thermistor wires had all insulation gone from rubbing, I fixed it and properly routed the hardness next to the door using two factory zip tire clips that are there empty. (Previous home inspector went must have got some work done on it which was not done properly).

That didn’t solve the issue so I took out the main board to see if constant pull on the harness may have cause some solders to come apart and that’s what I noticed on the bottom of the board , it looks like the relay’s solder came loose for a while and was causing sparks / heat there and it melted the pcb board metal where the leg was soldered, I exposed some area on the circuit and soldered the pin there. I suspend the pulling caused this so hopefully the fix will stick or else I already ordered a used board off eBay in case this issue comes up again (I won’t be soldering it again) . In case this gets heated again and burns out then I will put the replacement board in but for now the dryer is back in business. See some pics attached.

——— original question ——-

I have this Maytag dryer that I was using yesterday. I noticed it felt like it was vibrating/rattling bit too much so I was going to check after finishing the load.

Once the load finished and I tried to start another load, it won’t start anymore. The lights come up and I can select the right option and press start, I can hear the relay click and it says “sensing” but usually at that time the drum is spinning (right after pressing start). But not anymore , it’s not spinning at all, the motor is not making any type of sound (no hum, it’s dead quiet).

Could this be dead motor or something else I can check? Thanks.

Maytag ymed6000xg2

⟐ Commented June 08, 2024 at 14:35 MST