I'm upgrading this mac mini with 8 GB RAM and the 256 GB Sandisk X400 SSD. Computer runs fine and boots normally off of original hard drive which has Yosemite installed with 8 GB RAM installed.

I've been trying to get the SSD working and it now has El Capitan with latest updates. I've not been able to get this SSD drive working in the internal slot. System boots normally off the old drive in the internal slot, the system boots El Capitan from the Sandisk SSD if it is put in an external inatek enclosure. System will boot normally with the SSD in the external enclosure, with no drive in the internal slot. So long as the SSD is connected from the external enclosure, everything is fine, system runs El Capitan, and shows 8 GB RAM installed.

If I put the SSD into the internal slot, I get a grey screen. No question mark, no nothing. The only boot key sequence it seems to recognize is reset NVRAM, which I have tried multiple times. No other boot key sequences are recognized. Can't bring up boot manager, can't boot off DVD, nothing. I tried downloading an old EFI firmware update recommended elsewhere. Booted into El Capitan, it says this update is not needed.

I could just run this off the external enclosure, but would prefer to get the SSD working normally in the internal slot.

Any ideas?

⟐ Answered November 07, 2025 at 7:06 MST

I've looked at reference guides but haven't found an exact diagram for this model. If anyone has experience with this board, I'd appreciate details on:

• The exact location of the Power Pads
• The best way to short them to turn the system on
• Any precautions I should take to avoid damage

If you have images, schematics, or detailed descriptions, they would be extremely helpful. Thanks!

⟐ Commented May 23, 2025 at 10:30 MST

I just got one yesterday and the fans don’t power on

⟐ Commented July 26, 2024 at 16:40 MST

⟐ Answered March 21, 2024 at 13:39 MST

The optical drive ("superdrive") is an

OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5680H:

Firmware Revision: 3AHB

Interconnect: ATAPI

Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipping Drive)

and is shown by the system as "grayed out".

I want to replace the drive with a second HDD, but hesitate to buy the parts before knowing why it shows this problem!

I need to know the bay wiring and controller interface are okay...

All help would be appreciated!!

Thanks, Craig

⟐ Commented February 23, 2024 at 7:24 MST

I have question about a Mac Mini which I recently got from a friend.

As I turn the Mac on the boot sound chims and the fans as well as the CD Drive turns on. But whatever I try, I can’t get any video signal out of it. I tried different Cables (I even used different mini Displayport to HDMI adapters) and also tried to use my TV as a screen. None of it worked.

Any idea what I can do to still use this old piece of hardware?

Best regards

Valentin

⟐ Commented December 18, 2023 at 12:57 MST

⟐ Commented March 08, 2023 at 1:08 MST

I got these error when running the diagnostic.

The Mac mini is a late 2009.

This is the new update on the grey dvd that has diagnostics on it. I don’t know what this error is I was wondering if you can help me find out what the error is.

I find out that the code was it the senor cable for the hard drive. I bought this from another person and they took out the hard drive and when they did they accidentally broke the sensor cable to the hard drive. But the problem is finding a replacement senor cable for a late 2009 Mac mini.

Can mid-2010 Mac mini hard drive sensor work to replace my sensor in my late 2009 Mac mini?

What type of temp sensor will work with my late 2009 Mac mini? I tried to look everywhere for one but can’t been seeing a Mac mini 2010 but I don’t if that will work.

⟐ Answer accepted December 21, 2022 at 5:18 MST

Anny video or pictures guide?

Adrian

⟐ Answer accepted December 10, 2022 at 10:13 MST

However, I did a mistake and broke the thermal sensor connector.

I could not find it anywhere even the whole sensor unit.

Actually I need the connector part excluding sensor part.

I need your help.

⟐ Commented November 29, 2022 at 0:13 MST

as I was cleaning the dust off my old late 2009 mac mini I accidentally broke the lower part of the casing shell on the cable that goes from the power button down to the logic board. I managed to pretty firmly attach the two wires correctly to the board and the machine works fine.

My worry is;

1) If the dust buildup could cause a short with that little opening without the shell (see the two metal cable ends of the two wires without the casing shell)

2) Could I easily cover it with something like electrical tape, although the common understanding is that electrical tapes are not ideal for this task (heat & the gooey adhesive they leave behind).

What would be the ideal solution if you think I should cover up the remaining part of the partially broken casing shell on the cable?

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented January 09, 2022 at 23:40 MST

I tried searching online and couldn’t find anything related to this, the closest thing I could find was the CPU fan jumping to 100% after the machine started to boot. I’m worried I might have killed it somehow (couldn’t have been static since I had an anti-static wrist strap on and confirmed I was grounded)

⟐ Commented December 20, 2021 at 17:48 MST

My Mac mini late 2009 model wont turn on. Can I test if the power supply is at fault with a multimeter? If so how do I go about it?

Regards

Samuel $!^&

⟐ Answered November 23, 2021 at 8:59 MST

Main goal is to be able to use the same apps (Adobe CC2017) in both Macs. So i am thinking of an SSD and perhaps more RAM, but i have no clue what type of Ram modules i need and most importantly if it is worth making the overall upgrade.

I upgraded the memory with 2x4GB and when i boot, it will continuously starts beeping without being able to boot..

⟐ Edited by author July 28, 2021 at 1:02 MST

FYI - This is a strictly offline setup. No router, no ISP.

I often use the ad-how or “create network” option so I can stream to another Mac. The main issue I’ve encountered is Range. Using WiFi scan option on the airport utility iOS app, the RSSI of the ad-hoc network is -61. I’m only 6ft away with no obstructions. I know at -65 you can start dropping packets. I tested several channels including 5 GHz ones and there is no difference.

So is there a better solution? A better internal WiFi NIC? A nativity supported USB adapter (specifying native support because I’ve read they all use separate drivers and utilities to work.

I don’t care what it is as long as I can create a reliable WiFi ad-hoc network.

⟐ Answer edited July 16, 2021 at 5:32 MST

⟐ Answer unaccepted November 10, 2023 at 12:00 MST

⟐ Commented February 25, 2021 at 9:24 MST

⟐ Commented February 16, 2021 at 8:54 MST

I was going to post this in the microsoldering area but realize I nether know how to do that nor write to a specific member who might know.

⟐ Commented February 09, 2021 at 7:09 MST