⟐ Answered October 29, 2025 at 1:11 MST

My iPhone has connected perfectly until today, when it started doing the same thing as the iPad. All other USB devices work fine, and my iPad and iPhone both connect with the windows computers at work just fine. I've tested with both USB ports on my MacBook, and with several known working cords, both Apple branded and not.

I've done a lot of searching, and haven't found any definitive answers or solutions, but today I thought I would try something.

I use Windows 10 in VMWare on my laptop for work (and yes I made sure it wasn't running before trying to sync to make sure that wasn't causing the connectivity issues). But today I opened Windows on my MacBook, and when I plugged in my iPad I told it to open in Windows, and voila it connected to iTunes in windows fine and stayed connected.

This leads me to believe it is some sort of software issue on the MacBook side of things. I even tried closing itunes and just plugging my phone in to charge, and it again acted as though I was continuously plugging it in and unplugging it, but stayed connected in Windows.

Is there something I can do to correct this? I thought it might be an iTunes issue, but since it wouldn't even keep my phone connected enough to charge without iTunes open, I'm assuming it's an OSX issue.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

⟐ Commented October 14, 2025 at 22:45 MST

Other symptoms includes No audio devices found(cant play sound)

Is there any possible reasons for this? I highly doubt is a software problem.

hey guys an update on my issue, i never went for a fix, the problem went away after i left it to rest for a few days, i believe its an overheat issue. my screen has been working fine for the past few months since reporting this. Not sure it will come back, but this is definitely a faulty hardware, and Apple is not admitting it!

Affected model: 2016 Macbook Pro touch bar

I never went for a fix till now and using the same mac, the problem still comes and go, usually happen when overheating/heavy usage. I brought my macbook for de-dusting the fans and apply new heat paste for my processor in hope that it can reduce overheating issues, replacing the whole display costs too much.

Apple did an update for this issue for the FlexGate issue: 13-inch MacBook Pro Display Backlight Service Program. Sadly it doesn’t cover the T-CON issues.

⟐ Commented July 01, 2025 at 7:48 MST

⟐ Answered July 09, 2025 at 5:09 MST

After some brief surfing around this morning, I went to work with my MacBook running fine as usual. After coming home, my keyboard and trackpad are both unresponsive. What's a bit more unsettling is that, in the System Preferences, it's not even recognizing a trackpad as being connected.

After doing some searching around, I've found that some people ran into this issue with MacBook Pros, and it was because of a ribbon that had become loose underneath the battery. I'm wondering if it's possibly the same problem for me with my MacBook Air. I hadn't read about anyone with an Air experiencing the same problem.

Any help would be appreciated.I would love to get my Air working so I don't have to constantly use my external keyboard/mouse.

Thanks!

Edit: The only key that works on the keyboard is the power button.

⟐ Answered July 07, 2025 at 6:09 MST

⟐ Commented December 28, 2021 at 8:19 MST

⟐ Answered February 03, 2026 at 10:27 MST

Here's what's going on:

I have an A1226 15" MacBook Pro (mid 2007) with serial number: W872218YX92. I can't get it to turn on; whether it's plugged into the AC adapter or on a battery, I get no visible or audible response from the machine when I push the power button--none of the lights turn on, none of the fans spin, etc.

I've read about the nVIDIA 8600GT issue, but I don't get any response from the machine at all, so I'm not sure if that's what the problem is. The other thing I've read could be at fault is the 'Left I/O' board', but this thing won't turn on when using AC or a battery. One thing I haven't tried yet is to open it up and check the top cover power switch; is the power switch something that frequently breaks?

Lastly, when the MagSafe adapter is plugged into the machine, the LED on it always glows green--whether or not the battery is plugged in. When the battery is plugged in, the 'charging' LEDs on it do not light up or blink and thus the battery does not charge.

⟐ Answered July 10, 2025 at 23:42 MST

⟐ Commented June 30, 2025 at 13:09 MST

Right after a normal reboot, it suddenly stopped working: I get the startup chime, a bright white screen (without the Apple logo or pointer), and nothing else. If I don't shut it off, the fan starts working after a few minutes. If I close down the lid, the screen remains lit.

I've tried all the usual fixes and combinations:

• Plug in the "system install" pen drive
• Reset the SMC
• Reset the PRAM
• Hold down the Option key
• Hold down the C key (for rEFIt)
• Battery powered, MagSafe powered...

Nothing works!

I just get the chime and the permanent white screen. I don't have any kind of adapters, so I can't check anything involving cable connections. Is there something else I can try? Am I facing a broken logic board? Can it break "just like that"?

Well, folks: I finally found out what went wrong, and I'll try to explain it as well as my ignorance of Apple hardware, OS-X software, and firmware, and computers in general, allows me.

But first things first. I have good news for you: if you ever get the white screen of death. don't panic! And, unless still under guarantee, don't take your computer to an Apple center for them to steal you yet more money by making you pay for a new logic board and/or a new hard drive. Probably you can solve the problem by yourself, spending only a few -very well invested- dollars in a pentalobed or a Phillips #00 screwdriver, plus maybe a Torx T5 one.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but, as far as I've guessed and investigated, it works like this: Your MacBook Air's firmware (probably also any other MacBook system, but I can't be sure about that) is always instructed to try to, in the first place, boot off certain piece of hardware: be it the hard disk, an external DVD unit, the installed USB stick, or a network boot server. This option can be set in the OS's Startup Manager. When the actual boot setting is any other than the hard drive, then, at boot time, the firmware will look for the instructed medium to boot off, and if for whatever reason it doesn't find it, then it will try to boot off the hard drive as a "last resource". BUT, when the actual boot setting is "hard drive" and, for whatever reason, the data is corrupted or something is wrong with the boot sector, then the computer will NOT try to find any alternative device, or a network, where to boot off: it will keep forever trying to boot off the hard drive, and thus you get the dreaded white screen of death. The Apple engineers are so smart!!

But it's actually not dead: neither your motherboard nor your drive is dead. They're just in a deep coma.

How can you wake it up from this coma? Simple: remove the back cover and disconnect the hard drive. Believe me: with the right screwdriver, it's very easy to do and even you can do it. Then, and only then, if there is NO hard drive where to try to boot off, the firmware is programmed to look for some other medium: USB stick, external DVD, network... So, plug this medium in and... voilá! There you get your little spinning animated icon and, eventually, the Apple's apple; the startup disk will boot and there you are anew to life.

Now, once you've managed to boot, the FIRST thing you have to do is go to the Startup Manager and set the firmware to boot off your whatever startup medium is (otherwise, upon reboot you'll be in the same S*ITuation). After this, you can plug back in your hard drive and reboot your computer. Hopefully, it will boot off as instructed (the USB/DVD/Network), it will recognize your hard disk, and you can use the Disk Utility to repair it, reformat it, or whatever you want to do with it. After this, everything will go back to normal, and you've saved the Apple care center's $500 bill.

Hope this will help someone to avoid the three weeks anguish I've gone through... I'm sorry to say that it is A SHAME on Apple's part to sell such cr*p and not respond for it, nor inform about it on their support page, but joyfully get your money when you take your laptop to repair.

Welcome any correction or precision to this post.

⟐ Commented May 04, 2023 at 17:46 MST

My Macbook Pro suddenly shut down and is not turning on, no chime, no Apple logo. There was no exposure to water. (However, I had kept a steaming bowl of hot water right next to the laptop.But this was in an open kitchen)

The Pro had less than 10% charge when it suddenly shut down. I charged it for another 10 minutes and tried to switch on, but no luck. I charged it completely till the magsafe indicator turned green, still does not turn on. So assumed that the battery is charging fine. I opened the mac and saw no visible corrosion or moisture(two tiny dots below the battery case are white and haven't turned red)

I have tried the following already.

1. SMC reset - With the magsafe adapter connected, when I do the reset the charge indicator turns green from orange.

2. Disconnected and reconnected the battery connector - still no life.

Its been only a year and three months I bought this in India. Could the logic board die out so soon? How to pinpoint if it is indeed the logic board?

Thanks a lot!

I am currently based in a small town in Germany with no apple genius store around. I will be visiting the store in February. Meanwhile any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

⟐ Commented January 26, 2025 at 6:30 MST

The only way for me to turn it on was to plug in the MagSafe connecter (which only showed the green light).

I then asumed it was a problem with the replacement battery (from eBay) and put back the original battery.

For some strange reason, the original battery wasn't recognised either!

I've reset the PRAM and SMC, but still to no avail!

I would greatly appreciate your help!

I have a late 2011 mackbook pro which battery indicator showed not working/replace battery soon, replaced the battery with one I bought from ebay. When installed worked as it showed to have 60 % change out of the box, I went ahead and charged it fully and then it drained after a couple of days and would not recharge. Waited a couple of days, it charged a 2nd time and this time i did SMC reset and calibrated as suggested. After the 2nd charge ran out, it started to drain fast and would not charge while plugged in. Replaced with the old battery, charged one time and now back neither old nor new battery will charge, megasafe doesn’t light up at all. Any suggestions?

⟐ Commented April 26, 2023 at 18:01 MST

⟐ Commented August 13, 2025 at 21:23 MST

I should be able to upgrade the ssd to 256gb without much problem right? But which one would one use? or is it only possible to use another original SSD?

Don't need to be a monster of a ssd, just abit larger to store some more media.

Thanks in advance

⟐ Answered July 15, 2025 at 1:45 MST

I turned it off, everything seemed normal, but the next morning it wouldn't turn on again. It won't even start up: absolutely no sound, as if it was completely dead.

I checked the battery indicator and it was completely charged. I opened it up and disconnected the battery, plugged in the MagSafe charger, and there was still no response. I plugged the battery back in and no response. Plugged in the charger and connected the battery and no response.

I took out the hard drive and all my info was there; it would mount on a different MacBook Pro with no problem, and luckily I got all my files backed up.

So I know the hard drive is not the problem. The fan won't even move when trying to turn it on.

I tried taking out the RAM, one by one, no RAM at all, switching them from slot to slot: no response.

Tried out all of the key combinations on the keyboard as well... still nothing.

I don't know what else to try. I read somewhere that the on/off button is connected to the ribbon cable from the keyboard. I checked, and it is plugged in correctly to the logic board. I'm afraid my logic board is dead, but after only a little more than a year????

Any guesses?

Thanks for your help.

⟐ Commented February 22, 2024 at 7:26 MST

Basically, I get no audio from my MacBook Pro Retina 13" Late 2013 A1502 16Gb 2.6GHz - everything else works beautifully as ever with this machine (incl USB & power) apart from the sound.

It has *not* experienced any water damage or drops, but I'm pretty sure this problem started when I plugged in my external power speakers' amp to the headphone jack... just like I did everyday before that, but for some reason this time I didn't get any sound output and the volume feedback was delayed when I tried to turn the volume up/down.

Symptoms:

• Built-in speakers don't make any sounds.
• No sound coming from output jack (headphones or external speakers).
• I see the volume no-access icon (circle with diagonal line through it) when trying to change volume
• checked System Preferences->Sound settings: nothing showing up under the Output or Input tabs (no "Internal Speakers" showing up)
• NO RED LIGHT coming from headphone jack... so it's not the optical speaker switch problem most people seem to have.
• In "system information", when I look in sound hardware... no description for input, output, etc...

I've hunted and hunted all over the internet trying all various suggestions that others have had success with - I've tried all of the following, but still no luck:

I've tried all of the following in the listed order but nothing's changed:

• repeatedly plugging & unplugging different types audio equipment to the headphones port (including apple headphones)
• disk utility and run disk repair (no errors)
• tried PRAM/NVRAM resets (I don't hear the "chime" sound)
• tried logging in via a new user account
• tried deleting ~/Library/Preferences:com.apple.systemsound.plist
• plastic toothpick in the hole
• looking in the hole with microscope & 1.8mm led to illuminate - can't see anything obstructions in the hole
• I downloaded and booted the ASD software EFI and OS diagnostics - no errors
• tried disconnecting battery then rebooting
• an isopropyl alcohol swabbed q-tip cotton swab

I also went to see a Genius at the Apple Store - they did their tests and said "there's only two options:

• replace the logic board as we don't replace individual components, or
• use a USB adapter"

The logic board repair quote was extremely expensive as my warranty is over and the charge probably includes replacing all 16Gb of memory too as it's soldered in; and I said I didn't think that last suggestion was very Apple-like - I'd need to carry around an ugly USB adapter and an external speaker/mic device just to hear sound!

So I'm at a loss and need your help!

Everything else works fine on my computer, so I'm willing to get my multimeter out and start testing hardware but I'm not sure where to start (I/O card / Logic board?).

My logic board # is 820-3476-A

Thanks

⟐ Commented November 19, 2023 at 8:52 MST

⟐ Commented January 16, 2021 at 11:19 MST

any help pls ?

⟐ Answered January 14, 2024 at 21:50 MST

Is this likely to be something that removing the keyboard and cleaning might fix or would I need to replace the entire top cover, trackpad and keyboard?

Thanks,

⟐ Commented April 28, 2023 at 16:15 MST

I have a macbook air A1304 the wireless (wi-fi) has stopped working, and shows a warning saying that there is no hardware installed.

already dismantled the airport passed clean contact on flex cable and the card itself, but it did not work

tested the bluetooth works perfectly.

what should I do? buy a new airport? I recently bought on ebay but as I live in Brazil shipping time takes about 20 to 30 days

thank you!

hugs

I left my macbook the day off, when I turn got a surprise.

recognized the wifi but can not connect to any network.

and after restarting the computer informs not have wifi hardware.

⟐ Answer deleted February 18, 2021 at 1:10 MST