We removed the RAM, Cleaned up, No corrosion found, Re-Balled and installed again. Now all we get is an orange / green light on the charger. It appears that all the power rails are intact with no shorts. Q is why isn't it giving us 3 beeps when RAM isn't being detected / failed RAM chip. What are we looking for to check if each RAM chip is functioning or getting power? @oldturkey03 any insight please?

We initially used this video to diagnose.

⟐ Edited by author April 15, 2026 at 17:59 MST

⟐ Answer edited April 15, 2026 at 15:47 MST

⟐ Commented April 15, 2026 at 13:08 MST

⟐ Answered April 15, 2026 at 13:04 MST

The following is pretty much, but I did.

I replaced the old battery for a brand new battery.

Replaced the double sided tape on everything that had tape on originally.

Connected everything back up.

And closed it back up.

When I turned it back on, it wasn’t registering the battery or whatever else(X on battery icon).

I tried restarting the computer 2x.

Nothing, no changes.

Shut it off and turned it back on. $@$*.

At this point I just opened this thing back up to see what the problem could be.

Checked everything meticulously once again. Nothing looked odd.

I checked to see if the battery was properly connected, it was.

I still unplugged it and plugged it back on real quick. Closed it back up. Done, so I thought.

I turned this thing back on. Same freaking thing! So I restarted again, nothing.

I was trying to figure out what the hell could be the problem here and the only thing that comes to mind is that this probably has something to do with the software itself and it can probably be fixed via terminal, but wth do I know? I am hoping somebody has a better idea than I do, honestly.

At this point, I am between trying to get a refund and scrapping this pos or asking for some help here. So I am here.

What I almost forgot to mention is that after a little while of thinking about this, I just unplugged it from the charger to see what would happen. I actually thought that it’d die right away, but It didn’t do that. It stayed on, I even went online and used it for a little bit(like 20 minutes) until I snapped out of it and I was like -“I should probably plug this thing back up just in case and I should also ask about this situation here”-. Now, I am just waiting to see what happens.

I’d consider any suggestions if you so wish to help me out here.

Thank you kindly,

Guillermo.

⟐ Commented April 14, 2026 at 20:04 MST

⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 19:18 MST

It seems completely dead, no sign of life.

The Magsafe led is briefly green, then stays orange.

The light is also orange if I unplug the battery from the logic board.

The battery was replaced by a repair place a few years ago.(non oem replacement)

There is no sign of corrosion/moisture ingress.

One of the sections of battery has inflated quite a bit and a couple other sections inflated a tiny bit.

I have tried unplugging the battery and MagSafe then holding the power button for over 15 seconds. But this made no difference.

With the battery plugged back in and the MagSafe plugged back in (and orange) I've tried the SMC reset (shift control option Power 10') and when released the MagSafe does go Green briefly and then goes back to Orange.

It seems pretty obvious that I need to change the battery but before I spend £80 on such an old laptop I wondered if there's any way to diagnose this further in case there's some other problem. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare charger to test.

Much thanks in advance.

⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 17:38 MST

Does anyone have clear photos of the mechanism?

And is touch input captured using the same Broadcom chip as the other Mac/iPhone products?

⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 14:35 MST

After work (about 5 hours later) I found the keyboard keys weren't working right (no response to occasional response from enter, spacebar and delete keys, and one of the directional keys seemed to be constantly active - computer making bumping sound like incorrect key pressed), so I powered the laptop off and opened up the back to see if there was any liquid inside. The machine was bone dry inside, dust undisturbed with the only oddity being a slight coffee smell coming from the optical drive corner (drive was a little hesitant to release disk inside - took 2 tries to eject disk), but no smell anywhere else. Left the computer upside down for about a day to dry out some more (powered off) and popped off and cleaned the keys that weren't working with a damp cloth (water - dried thoroughly before popping back in place).

Powered the laptop on the next day and everything works except the keyboard. No response at all from any key, and the backlight only appears to be working in the very center of the board. However the computer does not sound as if it's working too hard, no overpowered fan noise, just operating normally. Currently is powered off and upside down with a small cooling fan on the keys.

Tried further drying by setting rice over the keys for a few hours, which was a mistake. Took a few hours to get the rice out that had seeped to the internals of the machine. I think there is still a rice piece stuck under the optical drive, but don't have the correct tools to pry it out yet.

Recently ordered a torc screwdriver to see if I can clean off the drive with some isopropanol, but not sure if I should replace the keyboard or not. Is there a way to fix it without replacing the whole thing? Would cleaning it with isopropanol as well help it? Should I try to clean everything since rice did get inside the machine?

My last attempt to turn my mac on left me a little fearful as the keys began to respond again, but not in the way they should have (pressed delete and got a letter on screen). It also befuddled me that my login screen popped up, when I have always had my mac set up to go directly to my home screen without a forced login. It had never acted up like that before, so I actually ended up taking it into the Geek Squad and am glad I did. It needed not only a new keyboard, but a new power button (which made sense to me as the power button was very hesitant to respond) and hard drive! Just lucky that I backed up my important files before sending it off! Expensive lesson, and I now have my mac ensured for any future problems. Thanks so much for your input!

⟐ Edited by author April 14, 2026 at 9:51 MST

I'm not sure what just happened.

I cleaned my screen with a tiny bit of water, but I guess there might have been a bit too much. I guess I was pressing down on the cloth to get rid of something in the corner. I've done this many times before without issue, but now there is a huge light blotch in the left corner of my screen. There is an odd rectangular shape near the bottom too that doesn't make much sense. Take a look at this image of a completely white window:

https://i.imgur.com/fp4G5IY.jpg

I've read that the classic rice method, and or heating the computer up for a long period of time might help it dry, but I'm not entirely sure it's only water that's the problem.

Anyways, hoping someone can help me understand the damage I've done and what I might be able to do, other than paying for a replacement :D. Thanks.

Time seems to have healed all wounds.

I ran the computer hot with a 'while true' loop for a couple hours and it burned most of the water off, and what was left is slowly disappearing.

⟐ Commented April 14, 2026 at 8:46 MST

⟐ Answer edited April 14, 2026 at 8:38 MST

⟐ Commented April 13, 2026 at 16:54 MST

⟐ Commented April 13, 2026 at 4:44 MST

⟐ Answer accepted April 12, 2026 at 6:53 MST

⟐ Answered April 11, 2026 at 8:47 MST

I have MacBook Pro M4 A3112.(Nov'24). this is my first Macbook.

Initially display screen had some damage, so got the screen replaced and i notice both Wifi and Bluetooth has stopped working.

I took back to the repair guy who helped to replace the screen, but he has no clue why Wifi and Bluetooth are not working.

please find the attached the screenshots and photos I took as part of initial diagnosis I could do.

Please advise, what could be the issue and how to resolve this ?

Thanks

RB

Hi @danj

I did reformat whole Macbook and reinstalled OS. Seems issue still persists.

I connected the MacBook to my router using Rj45 cable with the help of connector so I can access wired network connection to internet.

However I tried to do offline diagnostic and I got the error CNW001 . Have attached screenshot.

Power charger wasn't connected to macbook when I ran the diagnostic so the error PPP020 can be ignored in the image here, as I see the MacBook is working fine when charger is connected.

Let me know what option i have to resolve this CNW001 error.

I am using wired connection for Internet for now, not a substantial solution.

Thanks

RB

I used an Ethernet cable and was able to connect to internet.

The pic was taken with ethernet cable on !

⟐ Answered April 10, 2026 at 23:09 MST

I researched a lot online and did the following:

• Disabled Energy Saver - Automatic Graphics Switching on both Battery and Power Adapter mode
• Disabled Spotlight indexing for specific types of content and also added folders like “/System” in the Privacy settings
• Reset the System Management Controller (SMC)
• Performed the Apple Diagnostics test (ADT - some older websites called it the Apple Hardware Test - AHT) and had no issues come from that.
• I also use Google Drive’s “Backup and Sync” and do lots of web development with `node_modules` folders, that can have 10s of thousands of small files which I think results in CPU churn. I’ve disabled it now.
• Shut down the computer and turned it back on. Still get same issues with the external monitor.

Now with no external monitor plugged in, every once and a while the kernel_task rises up to 300% and sometimes rarely to 500%. I’m curious if it is a software thing or a hardware thing. To me it seems more like a software thing.

I use VS Code for programming which can have a lot of background tasks, same with using node/npm which can probably be doing lots in the background. I also run iStat v6.30, and sadly I have only 21 GB of free space on my HDD (out of 500 GB…). Often I also have Slack open, and I know that’s a web app using Electron to run as a desktop application, which can be notorious for performance.

Often the fans can run high as well. I often suspect it is either due to the VS Code/npm/node/Slack thing, or kernel_task, or maybe something else I’m unaware about.

When checking memory usage via iStat, I can see that kernel_task is using 1.61 GB (oof, Firefox is using 6.36 GB).

Things I haven’t tried yet:

• Cleaning out more free space from HDD
• Using plain HDMI cable into the HDMI cable port
• Taking MBP apart and cleaning any potential dust

Has anyone had similar experience with this issue and how to address it?

OS: 10.13.6

Processor: 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7

Memory: 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3

Graphics: AMD Radeon R9 M370X 2048 MB, Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB

⟐ Commented April 10, 2026 at 3:05 MST

Recently bought an early 2015 MacBook Pro 13" which had light water damage.

Opened it up and gave it a quick clean (rice everywhere...)

Only problem I can see is the MacBook can see the battery but wont charge and says it needs replacing (only 17 cycles)

The MacBook only works when connected to the charger.

Now I have a 2014 MacBook Pro 13" which functions normally.

Can I plug that battery into the 2015 model to test that it definitely is a problem with the battery before buying a replacement?

Don't want to waste money buying a replacement battery if that wont fix the issue.

Cheers!

*Update*

Info from coconutBattery

⟐ Commented April 10, 2026 at 2:55 MST

The new logic board arrived and I have installed it in the mac. Everything ok until this point.

Where I started to have problems ....

As the built-in display is cracked I can't do anything, but I knew that from the start. So, I connected the macbook air to the external display and the problems started to happend here.

I set up the macbook the following way:

- I connected the external power adapter, connected an external keyboard and mouse and connected the external monitor.

1 - I can close the lid plug/un-plug the monitor, do a million of different combinations, but it didn't wotk work. The clamshell mode is never activated.

2 - I tried several shortcuts to extend the monitor and nothing.

3 - I shut down the mac, closed the lid, removed the power and put it back.

The mac started automatically and I have image on the external monitor, but it's extended instead of mirrored, so when I press "D", it won't show the menu.

Opening the lid reveals the LCD black. It's, basically, off. Removing the cable of the external monitor does nothing, the built-in display continues off until I reboot again.

I don't mind this, since it will be a headless computer.

Question: how can I force the external display to be the main one, so I can configure the computer?

The previous owner formatted the ssd , so I get "?"and cannot go any further regarding booting the system.

Kins regards,

Pedro

⟐ Commented April 10, 2026 at 2:35 MST