video of issue

Screen

Display cables

Or logic board issues

⟐ Commented July 02, 2026 at 14:58 MST

⟐ Answered July 02, 2026 at 14:53 MST

Spanish: La MacBook prende y después se apaga y tarde horas en prender nuevamente

The MacBook turns on and then turns off and takes hours to turn on again

⟐ Answered July 02, 2026 at 10:51 MST

I replaced the battery in my Late 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” (A1398, logic board 820-3662-A) using the iFixit guide, which required removing the logic board.

While removing the heat sink, three of the four threaded mounting bosses separated from the logic board and remained attached to the heat sink. The heat sink screws were extremely tight, but I did not use excessive force or power tools.

Photos are attached showing:

• the detached mounting bosses still attached to the heat sink,

• the corresponding locations on the logic board,

• and the overall board.

The board itself does not appear to have torn fiberglass or obvious PCB damage.

The Mac now powers on and reaches the macOS login screen, but after several seconds the fans ramp up steadily and the machine shuts off. Before concluding that this is a thermal issue, I’d like to understand the mechanical failure.

My questions are:

1. On the 820-3662-A board, how are these heat sink mounting bosses originally attached?

2. Is this a known failure mode, or does it suggest the machine was previously repaired?

3. Can the bosses be properly reattached, and if so, what is the correct repair method?

4. If they cannot be repaired reliably, what is the recommended solution?

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone with board-level repair experience on this specific model.

⟐ Answered July 02, 2026 at 6:25 MST

Since then, the system has exhibited the following issues:

1. The Dock magnification is glitching; it only magnifies the icon previously hovered over rather than following the cursor.

2. I am unable to launch any applications using either the trackpad or an external mouse.

Hardware context: The laptop has 16GB of DDR3 RAM and a 250GB SSD (with 195GB free). It is currently running without a battery and has one blown speaker.

Could the damaged camera cable be causing these UI and input issues, or is this related to the OCLP installation? If it is a software issue, how can I troubleshoot or fix this?

⟐ Answered July 02, 2026 at 0:25 MST

Mac was inside of suitcase and it was inside of a bag.

Mac boots up,I can hear the chime,but the screen is totally black,not even “light” black. Caps lock light doesn’t work.

I tried SMC,PRAM reset, didn’t work.

Reconnecting screen display by unplugging those two things didn’t work. I used this video

Reconnecting battery didn’t work.

I also tried SMC,PRAM reset while the battery was disconnected and Mac was getting energy from the charger. Didn’t work. I used that video.

What else can I do before changing the screen?I don’t want to swap screen cause it’s expensive.

⟐ Commented July 01, 2026 at 22:25 MST

I have a MacBook Air M1 2020 (A2337) with a keyboard issue. The 3, E, and D keys not work. These three keys are aligned vertically on the keyboard. I want to mention that this is how I purchased the macbook with this problem. I thought I could clean each key individually and solve the problem, but it seems my idea didn't work.

What I have already checked:

• The MacBook has never had any liquid damage.
• I removed the individual keycaps and inspected the mechanisms underneath.
• The rubber domes and key mechanisms look perfectly fine.
• There are no signs of corrosion or dirt.
• I opened the laptop and inspected the inside, which is also very clean.
• I disconnected and reconnected the keyboard flex cable, but the issue remains.
• All other keys on the keyboard work normally.

Since the affected keys are in the same vertical line (3, E, D), I am wondering if this could be a keyboard matrix issue or a failed row/column circuit.

Has anyone experienced the same problem on an A2337 MacBook Air M1? Is there any repair possible without replacing the entire keyboard or top case?

Any advice or schematics would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

⟐ Commented July 01, 2026 at 15:11 MST

⟐ Commented June 30, 2026 at 15:12 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 30, 2026 at 14:30 MST

These Macbooks are now around 4-5 years so it's not a bad idea to replace the thermal paste.

They're not obsolute so there will still be users who can benefit from a guide.

Update:

So I was able to open the MacBook and disassemble the motherboard with the video.

Since I'm comfortable around electronics (this isn't my first time opening up a MacBook, laptop, or even a smartphone), I did choose to replace the thermal paste on the cpu and gpu.

And honestly, after four years of service... Kind of disappointed about the original paste. Dan said that paste will last longer now due to improvements, but the original paste was crumbly as hell. Furthermore I noticed small blank spots on the cpu and it's heatsink, so not very good spread. The gpu did have a good spread. They definitely were generous with the paste on the gpu, because its surroundings were covered with paste too.

Cleaning wasn't difficult, as I said the paste was in a very crumbly state.

After cleaning I gave the copper plates of the heatsink and the cpu and gpu some time to evaporate the alcohol.

I used Noctua NT-H2 and used the "X" to spread the paste on both cpu and gpu.

The only annoying experience was to place back the motherboard in the case. I needed multiple attempts because there was always some small connector/ribbon cable underneath the motherboard. Ugh! After playing like an octopus for a while, I was able to place the motherboard back and with all connectors/ribbon cables out on top of it.

It's do-able but only for people who have a steady hand and... most of all... lots and lots of patience. Take your time. Take some breaks if you get tired or frustrated because the moment that you attempt to work a bit faster or anything like that... something will go wrong. I 100% guarantee that.

I made only one mistake. The connector cable from the left fan is incredibely fragile due to its L-shape (that's what I think). In trying to get the L-shape cable from underneath the board to the top on the board, I got a small tear in the ribbon cable. This fan no longer works. We learn from our mistakes. Should've taped the connector on top of the fan, I wouldn't had an issue to "fish" for the cable since it can't get trapped underneath the board that way. Already ordered a replacement fan.

The temperatures are amazing though. In idle I went from 60-63° to 46-51°. The one remaining fan is also a lot quieter. I'm not going to claim this huge difference to the new paste though. There was so much built up dust in the MacBook... I was genuinely surprised that the MacBook didn't have much higher temps in idle. Both fans were completly covered up in thick dust, and the outlets on both fans same thing. How it managed to get some kind of airflow through those thick dust is a mystery to me.

Anyway, I am very happy with the result. Yes, I did damage one fan connector, but one can only learn with making mishaps.

⟐ Commented June 30, 2026 at 9:51 MST

This is how it looks

⟐ Commented June 30, 2026 at 5:00 MST

My Macbook Air has been displaying intense display glitching. The screen becomes covered with distorted coloured lines when I position it at most angles, however, at some very specific angles the glitching resolves entirely.

I've done some digging and discovered that I'll likely have to either replace the display flex cable or the screen assembly.

I'm inclined to think that the issue lies in the display cable, as the screen itself works flawlessly at specific angles, as I've mentioned. Dually, an A2337 display cable is much cheaper and easier to source than a new display assembly.

However, I'd really appreciate some professional advice.
Ask me any questions which may clarify things for you!

⟐ Commented June 29, 2026 at 23:45 MST

I’m looking for recommendations for good Apple repair shops experienced in microsoldering on Mac Book Pro logic boards.

⟐ Commented June 29, 2026 at 5:05 MST

Looking for the logic board of M5884 (400MHz) model

寻找可以购买M5884（400MHz）的链接，或者是一台可以用来拆配件的机器

Looking for a link to buy M5884 (400MHz), or a machine that can be used to disassemble accessories.

⟐ Answer edited June 29, 2026 at 3:50 MST

The only thing I need to know will Apple Repair Assistant say "Unfinished repair" and complain about locked screen chip or something else. I saw people say its gonna run fine its still just for iPhone and theres new policy in tahoe 26 about it. Please someone who had expirience with, help.

P.S.: Where I live, there is a common scam where Apple devices are remotely locked through iCloud. The seller even showed me the original purchase payment from his banking app, so he may actually be the original owner and a victim of this scam. We also don’t have Apple Authorized Service Providers here, so there is no official way to request Activation Lock removal.

⟐ Commented June 29, 2026 at 3:17 MST

I’m looking for some help with a MacBook Pro 13” Retina (2017, Touch Bar model).

I recently replaced the battery. The replacement went smoothly, and after reconnecting everything and checking the connections multiple times, the MacBook powers on normally and correctly recognizes the new battery.

However, since the battery replacement, I’ve been experiencing the following issues:

• The keyboard does not work at all.
• The trackpad does not work and does not physically click (it feels completely locked).
• The right cooling fan does not appear to work properly.
• On every startup, the left fan immediately ramps up to a very high speed and keeps spinning loudly, regardless of system load.

The MacBook itself boots and operates normally with an external keyboard and mouse, and the battery is detected correctly by macOS.

I’ve already reopened the MacBook and checked the battery and flex cable connections, but I haven’t found anything obviously disconnected or damaged.

Has anyone experienced something similar after a battery replacement? Could this be related to the trackpad flex cable, keyboard/trackpad connector, fan connector, or perhaps a sensor that is no longer being detected?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered June 28, 2026 at 16:21 MST

⟐ Commented June 28, 2026 at 13:44 MST

Actually I need the exact part of the LCD panel not the entire display assembly.

I think apple uses LP116WH4-TPA1 or AUO B116XW05

But can someone who had replace this or ifixit expert who have teardown the MacBook air 11" please comfirm or state the actual part number of the LCD panel.

⟐ Commented June 28, 2026 at 0:45 MST

⟐ Commented June 27, 2026 at 19:06 MST

⟐ Answered June 27, 2026 at 13:24 MST