Just today I tried the interface on two different 17-inch macbook pros of mine (one running High Sierra the other is El Capitan and it appears to get no power from either of them. At this stage I was thinking okay this has to be either the thunderbolt cable or the Interface has died on me somehow. First I hooked one computer to the other in target disk mode to test the cable, no trouble getting target disk to do it's thing, but I went ahead and bought a genuine apple cable anyway just to be sure, still no signs of life from the interface.

Finally in a "there is no way this is going to work but what the heck" moment I tried hooking it up to my brothers same 2011 model macbook pro 17 and voilà, it does its usual LED streak up light. This made me happy but it still leaves a lot of questions about my 2 macbook pros and their thunderbolt ports.

Is it possible they're not providing power through the correct pins? The pins look clean to me so I don't see any obvious issue and the fact it works for target disk mode also seems strange. Anyone have any ideas of what to try or similar experiences not getting power from their thunderbolt ports? Could this be software even?

Thanks!

⟐ Commented February 09, 2026 at 19:56 MST

⟐ Commented November 20, 2025 at 11:32 MST

MBRT has the pinout looped in with the 9-pin batteries and that clearly cannot be correct. The slim 13-pin battery connector battery model is A1309

⟐ Answered September 06, 2025 at 20:15 MST

⟐ Commented June 29, 2025 at 7:42 MST

⟐ Answered June 23, 2025 at 5:30 MST

Suggestions about a good repair place to send the board to. I know that if the GPU is also defective, I can, at best, expect a used AMD GPU. That's OK. I also know that the cost is going to be high.

What I need to know is who has had good results, and with what repair places.

I may also buy a "warranted" replacement logic board to have on hand.

Thanks for any replies.

⟐ Commented May 25, 2025 at 4:33 MST

The screen/display flickers with green symmetrical lines at random times. Its makes watching a video or gaming frustrating. They so up almost symmetrical around images.

I did find a temporary fix doing a google search.

If I apply pressure with my hand to the bottom of the laptop underneath the area of the left option key, it magically goes away. When I release the pressure it comes back.

Is there a permanent fix?

⟐ Answered May 13, 2025 at 12:12 MST

⟐ Commented April 01, 2025 at 18:24 MST

I've just followed the iFixit guide to remove the LCD panel from my 2008 MBP (MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 LCD Replacement) to complete a repair (actually to re-stick the white card behind the Apple logo which had slipped and left an ugly black line across it)!

Unfortunately, having put everything back together, the MBP won't power on at all. I press the power button and there is no chime, no sound from the Superdrive, nothing. Not a display issue, just an entire laptop power issue. :( When I connect the MagSafe cable (with or without the battery connected) the charging light goes green. I've tried with the battery in and out. I've tried holding the power button down with no battery/cable connected for 10 seconds then booting again. Still nothing. And it was working absolutely fine before I stupidly decided to try and repair it - Could boot up on or off the charging cable, even on battery power. :'(

Any thoughts? Does the power button run through the right-side cable from the screen display (as in this picture https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...)? Is it possible I damaged that cable when removing/re-seating the display?

And I know its an old laptop, but it was an eBay find in good condition and I was hoping to play around with it a bit longer than this!

Sorry, ignore me. ☺️ Seems like the battery was just completely dead. Screwed everything back together, left it on the charger for a few minutes and like magic it powered up again. 😀

⟐ Answer accepted January 26, 2025 at 7:45 MST

I'm trying to replace the WiFi connector on my MacBook Pro 2009 motherboard, because I bent the pins on it accidentally during a routine check on the motherboard

I removed the connector, but now I've got ripped-pads that I'm trying to fix.

The situation is similar to the following (note not all of the pads shown are ripped, but some are):

I think that I understand all of the situations except for one:

The two pads circled are indeed ripped, so I'm going to need to fix them.

Does anyone know what this trace is doing? Is it a single connector going back to the same pin? It seems silly because why would the manufacturers bother if the pin goes nowhere?

James Pedersen

⟐ Answer edited October 31, 2024 at 19:21 MST

I know that the CPU and GPU are soldered onto the logic board, so therefore, my question would be; is there any much more modern logic board that would in theory fit inside the chassis of a 17 inch A1229? I know that the connectors would be completely different, but would there be anything stopping you if you did find a logic board that fits in and you could swap out the connectors etc.

Clearly this doesn't make sense if you were just trying to get value out of an old machine thinking it would be cheaper, but is it even possible in theory for someone who had an abundance of time and money?

⟐ Answered October 22, 2024 at 2:04 MST

I thought that the problem was the 7771 capacitor (a very common issue ), so i replaced it with a new one but it doesn’t want to turn on.

I measured the voltage across the capacitor and i get 1.1V which seems good (?).

I even tried ti turn it on by shorting the power pins but as you may imagine nothing to do… (maybe i’m doing it wrong)

Can someone help me?

⟐ Commented October 18, 2024 at 3:48 MST

⟐ Answer edited September 20, 2024 at 15:10 MST

Before I've always rocked a 6gb ram (4+2) and after trying to replace the 2 gig stick with a 4 gig, the macbook gives me the ram beep and will not post.

As I've accumulated a shocking number of ddr3 ram sticks, I've tried them all, and the onky ram bay 1 of my macbook accepts is the 2 gig sticks (I have 2 identical ones and they hoth work)

But when I try to introduce the socket to a 4 gig stick, it suddenly refuses the ram, even if all I'm doing is swapping the previously working 2 gig and 4 gig ram sticks around, one bay happily access any size ram, but the other only accepts the 2 gig.

The macbook even boots with only the 4 gig stick but not if it's in the problematic bay.

The rams I'm testing with are the correct voltage and speed, I'm a bit confused as why it's happening here.

Any ideas would help.

⟐ Commented September 18, 2024 at 14:11 MST

Also, how do I remove the old one? I've tried to gently squeeze and pull but it appears to be firmly attached somehow.

⟐ Answered September 06, 2024 at 6:24 MST

im using a 85w MagSafe charger btw

⟐ Commented August 12, 2024 at 14:39 MST

-Mike

MacBook Pro17" a1229 Last 5 SN# digits- ...R9YAN

More info...I tried other sockets on the ps, different outlets in my room and others around the house. I get no light from the magsafe LED at all. The MB ran just fine until the battery ran out. I was playing with garageband until I noticed the low battery, and then realized the magsafe's green light was out. No orange or red either.The battery doesn't last long at all, so I keep it plugged in 99% of the time. I'm hoping the ps is the problem and the logic and left I/O boards are undamaged. I guess I need to find someone with a MBP I can test the ps on...

⟐ Commented July 28, 2024 at 21:43 MST

⟐ Commented July 07, 2024 at 15:09 MST

- swapping memory for known good memory

- removing internal HD (and internal HD cable) and booting from external drive

- resetting SMC

- using different power adapter, and booting from only battery or only power adapter.

Power cable light is green, and power flows through to an external drive connected via Firewire.

Internal drive is known good (tested in another Macbook).

The only advance problem I had prior to it not powering on at all: the previous night I'd put it to sleep by closing it, connected to power. The next morning it had shut itself down.

I'm down to likely either a bad logic board, or bad keyboard or keyboard cable.

In order to rule out problems with the keyboard or other devices, I'd like to power on using the power pads on the logic board. But, I can't find them on this model.

Where are the power pads on this model Macbook Pro?

Also, any other suggestions for troubleshooting?

⟐ Commented June 16, 2024 at 6:21 MST

However, when my MBP finally maintains power after pushing the power button and boots up…ALL SYSTEMS AND PROGRAMS AND GRAPHICS WORK. The MPB never shuts off after it is started It does [lock up] sometimes when it goes to sleep>then requires a power off then power on restart AND then boots up on first try after previous session

My laptop has been very well taken care of since 2009 purchase. Never dropped, no water damage ever, etc!

So, is this a logic board or internal power button problem?

Thanks everyone!

⟐ Edited by author May 29, 2024 at 22:56 MST