Looking at the pictures below it looks possible....

Macbook Pro 2011 logic board:

http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/QWKKP...

Macbook Pro 2012 logic board:

http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/11bHZ...

Has anyone attempted it?

⟐ Commented October 06, 2023 at 6:48 MST

I wanted to upgrade a Macbook Pro 15 Mid 2012 from 4 GB of RAM to 8 GB and switch the HDD for an SSD.

I followed the regular procedure:

• Turned off the macbook
• Opened the case
• Disconnected the battery
• Made the RAM and SSD replacement
• Reconnected the battery
• Case back on

After doing so, I installed macOS Sierra and noticed that the battery icon was gone. I tried disconecting the power cord and the laptop shut down.

I looked over the internet, tried the SMC reset, the P-RAM reset, tried disconecting the battery and reconecting, all that to no success.

The laptop was bought in 2013, the battery has 3 years of intense usage, I don't know the cycles or life as the laptop wasn't mine.

In coconutBattery, the battery doesn't show up.

Is this a case of a dead battery only?

Could it be the RAM or SSD causing trouble?

I get the battery icon with an X only on login screen, after loging in i don't even get the battery icon.

Should I get a new battery to test it out?

I mean, the laptop works great with the power cord conected, nothing fails...

Can you help figure out whats wrong?

UPDATE

I have not been able to get a new battery to test it, but I tried resetting the SMC several times (The light in the charger does not change...);

I did the P RAM reset several times too;

Using a multimeter, is there a way I can check if the pins of the battery connector are receiving power?

I mean, I have been reading a lot about SMC getting fried and I'm praying that's not the scenario here...

I did not see any sparks or whatever like in some people cases... I used a proper plastic pry tool to remove the battery all the times, so i don't think I could have caused any king of short.

Whats bothering me is the coincidence, has anyone ever experienced a battery that dies from being disconnected for a while and then reconnected? It was 89% when I got the laptop before the update.

Here are photos of the logic board. If anyone could point me out the components I should check with a multimeter, I would be very grateful.

⟐ Answered October 13, 2024 at 8:19 MST

I took it to Apple care and they said the only way to fix it was to replace the logic board, which is £600. A new MacBook Pro 2015 15” today is £1,749.

If I replace the logic board, is there any chance that this GPU panic issue will come back?

So here is my dilemma: Have the logic board replaced OR buy a new MacBook that is £1,149 more expensive than having the logic board replaced?

What do you guys think is worthy?

⟐ Commented March 01, 2021 at 18:33 MST

Just installed a new iFixit battery into my Mid-2012 15” Unibody MBP.

Also replaced the DC in board and a new Apple 85W MagSafe charger.

The battery is recognised and seems to work fine. However, when running on battery power the battery percentage drops down to around 50% after an hour or so and then all of a sudden it will drop from 50% down to 7% instantly. The computer will run for maybe an hour at 7% then will drop down and eventually shut down at 0%.

I made sure to follow the calibration instructions to the tee, charging to 100% running it on the charger for a few hours then unplugging the charger and draining the battery until the computer shutdown. I then left it overnight with a flat battery and recharged it to 100% the following morning.

I have reset the SMC, reset PRAM. I am also using a new 85W MagSafe adaptor.

Could the battery be faulty? 

Thanks in advance,

Luke

Thanks for the replies guys, I do get about 3 hours of use from the new battery, It seems to go OK from 100% to around 50% but it just drops from around 50% to 7% within a minute or two, then sits at 7% for about half an hour then I maybe get another half hour of battery life before the computer turns off.

It has taken over 6 hours to charge it up today, much slower than yesterday (full charge in around 3 hours)..

⟐ Commented September 18, 2022 at 17:53 MST

Also, at first I thought there was something physically wrong with my keyboard, perhaps something is stuck that prevents the switch from being recognized but then randomly it starts working. sometimes it doesn't work for hours, other times it does. There isn't a scenario that I can reproduce making it work. I also opened up my macbook and looked at where the keyboard ribbon is connected to the logic board, I don't know what is up.

⟐ Answered March 13, 2024 at 10:16 MST

I tried to open my MacBook Pro 2012 (RAM change and replacement of the HDD by a SSD) using the iFixit Tools (Philipps #0), but I've got 2 screws that I can't unscrew (sorry for my english, I'm french). I tried slowly, but the screw didn't turn. After 3 or 4 tries, the "cross shape" is damaged, so I don't know how to get rid of those two screws... Anyone has a solution ?

Here is a picture of the screw (the other look the same) :

http://data.imagup.com/10/1165914317.JPG

⟐ Commented January 15, 2024 at 19:42 MST

Thank in advance!

⟐ Commented January 21, 2021 at 0:44 MST

I want to replace the complete glossy hi-res display assembly with a hi-res matte one.

The issue is that there aren't really any matte 2012 units available.

Is it possible to use the early/late 2011 display assembly on a mid 2012 MacBook Pro with the same resolution?

I've found some answers that say it is possible some say it isn't.

Some thoughts:

• - AirPort Exrreme card from 2012 can be used in 2011 model -> same antenna design
• - Same specs of the Facetime camera (same connector/cable length?)
• - Same resolution -> same logic board connector?
• Question: Are the magnets to sense the lid closing within the 2011 display assembly at the same location as they are in the 2012 part?

Thank you very much for your help!

⟐ Answered December 05, 2021 at 19:03 MST

I purchased last week the battery replacement kit from iFix for my Mid 2012 MBP. Swap went smooth, just like the article explains it. However, I've noticed that after the battery is fully charged. it doesn't hold the charge. I left the laptop with about 80% last night, shut it off, when I turned it back on this morning, it immediately dropped to 6%.

Is there a reset or a software step I have to take after the new battery is installed? Thank you for your help in advance!

--

Rafa

⟐ Answer edited June 13, 2018 at 6:14 MST

⟐ Commented January 28, 2016 at 14:47 MST

Running the latest version of OS-X (updated then time machined before running BootCamp Assistant) on my 2012 MacBook Pro 15"

What I did:

1. Made sure all the latest (pending) apple system updates were installed
2. Formatted ext HD then created a fresh Time Machine disk
3. Formatted My MAC
4. Reinstalled OS X from BootCamp
5. Formatted USB thumb drive
6. Created Windows 10 Installer & partitioned drive using BootCamp Assistant
7. Installed Win 10 under BootCamp
8. Installed Chrome in Windows
9. Began installing Malware Bytes in Windows while simultaneously downloading Bit Defender

What I expected to happen:

1. Continue my initial Windows setup and configuration
2. go to bed

What happened instead:

1) Without warning the screen went black.

NOTE: I saw a notification come up during this process saying that my Nvidia drivers were now game ready or something, however I was using Windows for at least another 10 - 15 minuets Before the screen when black.

2) Computer still boots up and I hear the wrong key beep (?) when feeling around (see below)

What troubleshooting have I attempted?:

1. Reboot
2. PRAM reset
3. SMC Reset
4. Connecting the MagSafe charger
5. Holding option during boot up, then blindly trying to login to windows and OS X, to try adjusting the screen brightness

What results have I seen from my Troubleshooting? (Corresponds to previous section)

1. nothing.. it boots black
2. nothing.. it boots black
3. MagSafe changed color briefly
4. The first time I attached the MagSafe the screen came back then disappeared. (Estimate less than a minute)
5. The aforementioned beeping noises when touching non F# keys... and still nothing

Addition Info

Someone on another site said that I have a bad Nvidia driver... I don’t know what that means exactly nor can I imagine how to begin to fix it when I can’t see anything. (Tried asking the person but they aren’t replying)

• Were they correct?
• If yes what do I do?
• If no what could the problem be?

I would be grateful for any help that you can provide...

Thank you

⟐ Answer edited January 07, 2022 at 9:46 MST

⟐ Commented April 26, 2022 at 17:16 MST

In cocunut battery it says it is only charging from ~6-9 watts. It’s gone from 0% to 70% in 3.5 hrs, which is way slower than with my previous battery. Is the battery from iFixit defective?

⟐ Answer accepted September 24, 2020 at 17:55 MST

The component reads: "625 9AHRTZ F2__SC"

Can this component be replaced by a skilled technician? Do you see any other fried components? Could it return to life after replacing?

Here are some photos of the board:

http://imgur.com/a/w4qJw

⟐ Commented February 02, 2017 at 11:29 MST

1) Should I even bother bringing this in to an apple technician? They are presumably just going to tell me that its water damaged which I already know. I can't afford paying them ~$200 dollars to clean it for me so would rather just do it myself.

2) I'm thinking of trying to clean out the board using this guide.

Cleaning coffee/splenda corrosion from inside of MacBook Pro

in combination with:

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012 Logic Board Replacement

Basically my question is, to anyone who has successfully removed / cleaned a logic board is: Where am I most likely to go wrong? Is there anything not mentioned in the ifixit guide which I should be aware of. Have little experience in repairing electronic components and am, understandably, a bit scared of doing this. Any tips would be hugely appreciated.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

To anyone reading this whose interested in a followup, I successfully did this yesterday. I removed the board and cleaned it with with isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush and got rid of all visible corrosion. Thanks again to those who replied. The hardest things in the job were:

a) re-inserting the logic board into the case

b) re-inserting the keyboard cable into its socket.

These videos are extremely useful:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHriXZznK...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQZ_rG9Vp...

This ifixit guide is good but it can be a little vague at times when describing how to remove the cables from the boards so definitely watch the videos.

A magnifying glass is extremely useful for ensuring all signs of corrosion are gone.

This is definitely tricky - some of the cables are not easy to pull out / reattach and i was worried at times that I was going to damage them. But if you're patient and logical about it, its satisfying work and its nice not to have to pay someone a few hundred dollars for something you can do yourself.

⟐ Commented January 13, 2023 at 8:09 MST

So I booted into single mode and typed the nvram gpu-power-prefs code and it worked. Now I'm wondering if the GPU died…

But then again I remember seeing a Louis’ video about bad soldering on 2012 models but I think it was the Retina one. Does the non-Retinas have bad soldering too and if so does the symptom look like it does in this picture…?

⟐ Answered January 11, 2023 at 8:40 MST

⟐ Commented May 10, 2022 at 9:23 MST

I’ve also reset the PRAM along with updating to the latest SMC firmware for my Mac model all to no avail. I’ve inspected the battery connections many times and it appears to be plugged in just fine. I figured it’s not due to a faulty connection since a SMC reset kicks it back into gear, but this issue is really messing with my workflow.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

EDIT: I’ve also downloaded and ran CoconutBattery. After a fresh SMC reset, coconut says that the battery is in good condition and has no issues.

EDIT 2: Here is a screenshot of CoconutBattery with the SMC freshly reset (battery working)

Here is after battery stops being recognized:

⟐ Commented August 22, 2019 at 12:31 MST

⟐ Commented April 20, 2024 at 13:17 MST

I replaced my laptop battery with an ifixit one. I callibrated it and reset the SMC, as it was blanking/going to sleep really quickly.

That seemed to fix it for a day or two, but now I’m literally plugged in, working, and my laptop randomly went to sleep, just suddently black-screened me.

Anyone know why this is happening? Should I try going back to the previous battery or is there something else I can reset?

Thanks!

Thanks Cory - here are the screenshots.

Please let me know what to do :)

Doesn't look like those screengrabs worked. Here's the info:

Battery Information:

Model Information:

Serial Number: D861015004NDGDL3T

Device Name: bq20z451

Pack Lot Code: 0

PCB Lot Code: 0

Firmware Version: 2

Hardware Revision: 00aa

Cell Revision: 2

Charge Information:

Charge Remaining (mAh): 6466

Fully Charged: No

Charging: Yes

Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 7387

Health Information:

Cycle Count: 1

Condition: Normal

Battery Installed: Yes

Amperage (mA): 492

Voltage (mV): 12618

System Power Settings:

AC Power:

System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Sleep on Power Button: Yes

Wake on AC Change: No

Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes

Wake on LAN: Yes

AutoPowerOff Delay: 14400

AutoPowerOff Enabled: 1

Current Power Source: Yes

Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes

GPUSwitch: 2

Hibernate Mode: 3

High Standby Delay: 4200

PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep: 0

Standby Battery Threshold: 50

Standby Delay: 4200

Standby Enabled: 1

Battery Power:

System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 12

Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 12

Sleep on Power Button: Yes

Wake on AC Change: No

Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes

AutoPowerOff Delay: 14400

AutoPowerOff Enabled: 1

Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes

GPUSwitch: 2

Hibernate Mode: 3

High Standby Delay: 4200

Reduce Brightness: Yes

Standby Battery Threshold: 50

Standby Delay: 4200

Standby Enabled: 1

Hardware Configuration:

UPS Installed: No

AC Charger Information:

Connected: Yes

ID: 0x0100

Wattage (W): 85

Revision: 0x0000

Family: 0x0085

Serial Number: 0x0066fcbe

Charging: Yes

Power Events:

Next Scheduled Events:

appPID: 292

Type: Wake

Scheduled By: com.apple.alarm.user-visible-Weekly Usage Report

Time: 7/12/20, 1:29 AM

UserVisible: 0

appPID: 288

Type: Wake

Scheduled By: com.apple.alarm.user-visible-Weekly Usage Report

Time: 7/12/20, 3:07 AM

UserVisible: 0

This is still an issue. Computer actually just shut off entirely while on battery power and I lost an hour’s work.

⟐ Answered October 31, 2022 at 1:07 MST