⟐ Commented December 19, 2024 at 14:30 MST

This happened to me after few days of using the new macOS Catalina. When I turn on it says a critical update is required but keeps saying that an error occurred when I try to install.

I’ve tried updating with wifi, personal hotspot and with LAN adapter but I get same screen. I have also tried the clean install with and empty disk (command + R) but shows same screen. I also tried factory OS install (shift option command R) but fails after downloading OS. The NVRAM and SMC reset does not help.

However, I am able to use my mac from safe boot mode but touchbar, keyboard backlight and sound does not work from safe mode. I can also use my mac booting from portable usb windows drive but again touchbar, keyboard backlight and sound does not work (everything used to work from the same usb drive before the critical software thing happed).

The internet says it has to do something with touchbar unit, but I didn’t have any issues before. Do you think replacing the touchbar unit will solve the problem?

⟐ Commented December 17, 2024 at 10:31 MST

I tried Preferences Pane/Sound and trick the Balance of Left and right while playing the music. But, the output is not normal at Left Speaker. The right speaker can bring full of bass like surround sound. But, the left speaker can bring only treble sound. Neither the bass or the surround like the right one.

Am I only one who experiencing like that? Or was is because of the new MacBook Pro speaker system?

⟐ Commented July 26, 2025 at 16:44 MST

What would be the best way to replace it without disassembling the whole laptop?

Can i pop off the dome by brute force and "glue" the new one?

Does apple cover this under warranty?

⟐ Commented April 26, 2022 at 16:40 MST

Basically I want to restore the physical function keys from a sanely designed (non touch bar) laptop. Is there enough space? What cabling would I need to create or modify to do this?

I'm sure there will be issues with the firmware to accomplish this. I think it would be an interesting academic exercise to sniff the bus and see what we could do to work around that. At this point I'm wanting to dig up any specs, schematics, first hand knowledge or any other helpful information for this project. If it seems promising, I'm willing to take this further. Imagine how cool it would be to have a frankenmac keyboard mod kit, lol.

⟐ Commented February 10, 2021 at 5:55 MST

Can the RAM be further increased to more than 16Gig?

⟐ Answered January 30, 2025 at 18:53 MST

⟐ Answered September 10, 2021 at 8:41 MST

my Girlfriends Macbook Pro 15” (2017) started showing problems yesterday. She flipped the display open and suddenly horizontal flickering lines and a big green bar on the right hand side of the screen appeared.

Additiononal to that there’s a noticable noise coming out of the body of the compter - from the hinge, on the left hand side. The lines fade at a certain angle, with the noise still noticable. This leads me to believe theres a problem with the connection, hence the buzzing noise.

I’m pretty angry because of this issue. Now that thing breaks? After 1,5 years of idling - once corona condemned us to home-office it just breaks? What the !&&*?

Thankfully I’m in europe so we’ve got a two year warranty for every product purchased. I only need to file a formal complaint with the shop I bought this machine from and proof that this is an issue that was caused through normal use. Is there anything that would help me with this? Would an authorized technitian confirm that to me? Because: The stupid machine actually never left the desk, shows almost no signs of use and has been carried arround in a padded bag on a maximum of 5 occasions. If this causes internal connections to loosen, it’s just bad design.

Plus: Through a quick research I see the same problem appearing more frequently in forums over the course of the past months. People keep describing the aforementioned issue. I’d say that there’s another design flaw apple has to deal with through a replacement program.

UPDATE:

I searched the web for the prevalence of this particular error in 2017 15” Macbook Pros.

So far i found these threads:

https://de.ifixit.com/Antworten/Ansehen/...

This thread is dealing with the 13” Version but over the Course of the past months some people with 15” Macbook Pros reported the same issue.

https://de.ifixit.com/Antworten/Ansehen/...

Here’s some images and videos with the problem.

Here’s a picture of the screen without lines when not fully opened.

I’m pretty certain one of the cables connecting the t-con board with the display loosened or broke. The buzzing noise could indicate a short circuit.

⟐ Commented April 29, 2020 at 21:03 MST

thanks!

⟐ Answer edited December 13, 2018 at 15:08 MST

I am using iStat Menus. The thermal sensors appear to be fine.

I am able to use iStat Menus to set the fan speed for the right fan but the left does not respond to the controls.

I tried resetting the SMC and PRAM. I ran an Apple Diagnostics and it said there may be a problem with the fan. I installed a replacement fan and the problem still persists.

What can I do to get the fan under control? Could the heat from the hair dryer have damaged the fan connector or its circuit?

⟐ Commented August 15, 2024 at 1:16 MST

After I completed the task, all features function, except that my Power Button (with Touch ID) keeps saying Maximum Fingerprint Limit Reached.

Things I tried:

• Boot into Recovery and use the Terminal to xartutil —erase-all
• Removed Fingerprints from my iPhone which uses the Same Apple ID.
• Added new Fingerprints using my iPhone which uses the same Apple ID.
• Reinstalled the OS.
• Did not harm the Enclave or logic board to the best of my knowledge.

Apple isn’t interested in replacing my logicboard for free, they identified the top-case as replaced.

⟐ Commented December 14, 2023 at 16:22 MST

It’s a MacBook Pro 15 inch 2017

⟐ Commented November 24, 2025 at 14:33 MST

⟐ Commented January 04, 2025 at 17:58 MST

I've tried various tin-foil shielding tricks and I'm starting to think the EMC issues are in the MBP. Page 16 of the Intel doc says:

It is critical that the receptacle connector shield be connected to a metal chassis or notebook enclosure through grounding tabs or screws. The receptacle connector should have a back-shield to ensure that the receptacle connector is fully enclosed.

If someone with a torn-down MBP could have a look at the ports and comment on the shielding there, that'd be awesome.

⟐ Answer accepted December 12, 2019 at 9:26 MST

⟐ Answer edited January 26, 2019 at 0:58 MST

⟐ Answered July 11, 2018 at 23:52 MST

How can I save my screen?

Today I found the replacement part, just for $6, Awesome！

I want to know how to fix it ?

Do I need buy any superglue or something else?

Do I have to remove my whole screen, or just take this part down and replace it ?

I really appreciate ur help!

Thanks a lot

⟐ Answered August 14, 2023 at 10:27 MST

⟐ Commented March 04, 2023 at 18:09 MST

Can you help me out? Where can I buy this or is there a specific socket name for that?

I have searched the following keywords but no success.

• PCB battery/power socket
• Logic board battery socket
• A1707 battery socket.
• Macbook pro logic board battery socket …

⟐ Answered September 01, 2022 at 10:06 MST

I have possibility to buy MacBook Pro 15” 2017, seller says it is “iCloud” locked.

I had many MacBooks before but never newer than 2015 (pre Touch Bar).

I 100% sure I know it is IMPOSSIBLE to have it iCloud lock - as if I do format disk and reinstall system iCloud lock will be gone.

I know about FIRMWARE / BIOS in those 2015 and older - but seller says it is not that lock - it is iCloud lock like in iPhone.

Can someone please tell me what are possibilities to PERMAMENTLY lock of MacBook 2016 or newer?

Thank You

⟐ Commented July 23, 2025 at 10:20 MST