Only thing is working - reboot laptop with headphones on it.

But, after system goes to sleep it again it doesn’t see the headphones.

So finally I have found a replacement and ordered it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181122080684?ssP...

After installation I will inform you if this fixed problem.

UPDATE: Just want to share with you that replacement of headphone port hasn’t helped at all. Dont know what to do now, so disappointed. I think this is something with motherboard then.

UPDATE 2: Today i will clean install whole OS. If that is software problem - that should fix it.

UPDATE 3: Clean install doesn't make any difference. Big still exists

⟐ Commented December 28, 2024 at 7:17 MST

I've been able to reboot using my magsafe charger, and then unplug and run off battery power. However, this only works for about 10 minutes before the computer acts as if the battery is suddenly disconnected and shuts down again.

Things I've already tried:

• SMC reset
• PRAM reset

Anyone have suggestions? Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented October 31, 2022 at 5:24 MST

I was wondering if I can replace my 256 GB SSD in 2012 retina MBP with a Samsung 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD512?

http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memor...

Regards,

Dax

⟐ Answered March 22, 2021 at 11:22 MST

⟐ Commented May 13, 2020 at 14:41 MST

"Calibrate your battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally."

When I turned on my macbook after the replacement it showed a charge of 59%, then I used the the macbook until it turned off automatically, but the problem was it didn't go to hibernation on about 5% as usually, but it suddenly turned off on about 18% and all work in progress was lost. I tried everything including SMC and PRAM reset but the macbook stopped going into hibernation mode. I explained all of this in detail (including coconut battery screenshots) to the customer service and they send me a new battery saying the one I received was damaged.

Now I installed the 2nd new battery and turned the macbook for the first time on and it showed ca. 57% of charge and I continued discharging the battery by using the macbook and then I thought maybe I'm following the instructions wrongly.

The calibration instructions aren't entirely clear to me. For example the first part says "allow it to drain overnight". Does that mean I'm not supposed to turn on the macbook for the first time at all and the battery is going to discharge by itself to 0%? I don't believe the battery can drain to 0% after one night sitting in a turned off macbook, right? The second part of the instructions "then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally" is pretty clear to me since it indicates you are supposed to use the macbook until it shuts down automatically.

So now I have a turned off macbook on ca. 40% of charge (initial delivered battery charge, 0 cycles) and I have no idea what to do since I'm afraid I could run into the same problems as first time. Could someone provide a clear step by step guide what to do after replacing the battery. Is it necessary to reset SMC again. If yes in which step? Thanks.

TL;DR: How to correctly calibrate the battery after replacement, step by step guide. What does "allow it to drain overnight" mean? To drain it by using the macbook or to let it drain in a turned off device (which would take way longer then only 1 night)? Is it necessary to reset SMC?.If yes in what step?

⟐ Commented August 19, 2023 at 5:18 MST

I've tried a micro fibre cloth, and special bought lcd cleaner, but its not worked, the smudges are all there still.

What is the best way to get rid of them if it is caused by some kind of soap? OR am i looking a paying for a costly replacement?

Please help!

⟐ Commented July 07, 2023 at 14:18 MST

I just received my new MBP (8GB RAM & 256GB SSD) Retina yesterday, and I'm really crazy about it. It's a really awesome computer, but I hoped that it would run cooler than it has been.

I normally have the following things running at once:

Chrome (Canary - because, it's the only chrome which actually is supporting retina display)

Safari (same reason)

Skype v2 (just opened, not calling),

Diablo 3 installing

Teamviewer (opened, not using)

5-6 tabs in my browsers

I actually use SMC Fan Control for Fan control and iStat Menu to watch the temperature and the temperature is around 80C with the fan rotating at 2800 rpm

I don't understand why the MBP (which should easily run video encoding, gaming, and others...) runs so hot.

Can you explain this to me please ? I'm getting worried about my MBP.

Thanks

:S

⟐ Commented November 10, 2021 at 23:39 MST

I don't know what I have to do, I need my macbook on the go. I'm a repairing guy, but I need tips on where to start looking.

Than again I started looking online, and found out that there is a graphics card return program. Could my macbook be considered under this program with the problems i'm having?

This is how it looks right now after my first discharge and charge

@danj I've done another discharge, and this is the result after.

Maybe i should indeed take the battery off and try that to give the reset.

What tutorial should i follow to do this?

⟐ Commented March 25, 2025 at 3:54 MST

Additionally, I cannot connect to external monitors and, occasionally, a white screen appears prompting a reboot while watching VLC or youtube.

Does anyone have an idea which part is causing the issue? I am thinking the dedicated GPU or maybe the entire logic board? I am hoping to fix this at home.

⟐ Answered April 08, 2021 at 11:52 MST

Sure enough, I'm home and I'm using it once again and the rattling has begun. When I close it and shake it, I can hear it knocking around inside. What's strange is that as I let the laptop cool down, the rattling minimizes or goes away.

Is there a chance that the battery glue is weak on this particular unit and is coming loose when the laptop is hot? If so, what should I do? The Apple Store geniuses are consistently unhelpful when I visit the store.

Edit: I might also add that the object seems LARGE, like what I believe to be the battery cells or a board within the unit. I've worked on laptops for 15 years and this is the first laptop I'm literally locked out of (pentalobe screwdriver on the way). Just wanted to do some research in the meantime. Not sure what to expect when I open this thing.

⟐ Answered May 19, 2020 at 10:41 MST

Apple MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.7 15" Retina 2012 Specs

Identifiers: Retina Mid-2012 - MD831LL/A

16GB RAM 750GB SSD card ( It was a $500 option on this model).

Machine came in "Out of Africa", with the trackpad not working. Running 10.11. It will move the curser a little bit and erratically. A wireless mouse was being used to navigate. I replaced the trackpad with a new one, also the battery at the customers request, ( he had me order these parts before I had a chance to see the machine). Problems persists. Ran virus check and caught a couple of minor Trojans and removed them. Problem persists. Booted from an external hard drive to see if it was a software issue 10.10.5. Problem persists. Safe Mode, persists. Works well with both wired and wireless mice.

I'm stuck. Machine was very dusty on the interior but I blew all of that out. Any ideas on where to look next?

UPDATE

Looks like there was a EFI Trackpad update for the 2012 MBP. A version 1.2 & 1.3. But they require 10.8 & 10.9 respectively. So i'm trying to install a 10.8 system on an external, download the update, boot from it and see if I can run it and fix the issue.

UPDATE 10/13 none of the updates will run on 10.11 system. Put in Target Mode, wiped the drive, did an internet restore to 10.8.5. Updates will not run nor will the trackpad work. I'm stumped. Senior Apple Tech is telling me to replace the logic board.

UPDATE 10/16 I have no idea of where to go on this one, without some help I'll have to send it in to Apple for a depot repair later today.

⟐ Commented January 25, 2016 at 13:13 MST

I´ve poured some coffee over my MacBook Pro 15" Retina Mid 2012 and now some keys of the Keyboard are not working anymore. The rest still works fine.

I just wanted to ask, if it is possible to replace just the Keyboard itself without replacing the whole TopCase ?

Best regards and thanks in advance.

Tom

⟐ Commented May 10, 2018 at 1:02 MST

⟐ Answer edited August 31, 2016 at 15:22 MST

The wierd thing was that i could keep using it for a couple of hours even though the percentage was slowly dropping. It stayed at 7% for a really long time. I watched 45 minutes of live football, did a little bit of web browsing, watched some youtube and worked in photoshop a little while. All of this from 7% down to 2% when it entered sleep mode.

Is this due to bad battery calibration or is it a faulty replacement battery? What do you think? It feels like i got a good amount of uptime from one charge but the percentage was way off.

Edit:

Here is a screenshot from Coconut when it’s fully charged.

Update:

Ok so i just reached 7% again after playing a youtube-clip for a couple of hours and playing in photoshop meanwhile.

This is what Coconut reports at the moment. The percentage dropped in two steps really. It dropped normally down to 41% and then it dropped rapidly to 29% and a few moments later down to 7%.

Can bad calibration cause this type of behaviour or should i suspect the battery?

⟐ Answered August 12, 2023 at 6:34 MST

Battery Information:

Model Information:

Serial Number: D86241131JYDNMGAH

Manufacturer: SMP

Device Name: bq20z451

Pack Lot Code: 0

PCB Lot Code: 0

Firmware Version: 511

Hardware Revision: 000a

Cell Revision: 1150

Charge Information:

Charge Remaining (mAh): 4974

Fully Charged: No

Charging: No

Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 8414

Health Information:

Cycle Count: 6

Condition: Replace Now

Battery Installed: Yes

Amperage (mA): 0

Voltage (mV): 11490

System Power Settings:

AC Power:

System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 0

Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 0

Wake on AC Change: No

Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes

Wake on LAN: Yes

AutoPowerOff Delay: 14400

AutoPowerOff Enabled: 1

Current Power Source: Yes

DarkWakeBackgroundTasks: 1

Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes

GPUSwitch: 2

PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep: 0

Standby Delay: 4200

Standby Enabled: 1

Battery Power:

System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 2

Wake on AC Change: No

Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes

AutoPowerOff Delay: 14400

AutoPowerOff Enabled: 1

DarkWakeBackgroundTasks: 0

Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes

GPUSwitch: 2

Reduce Brightness: Yes

Standby Delay: 4200

Standby Enabled: 1

Hardware Configuration:

UPS Installed: No

AC Charger Information:

Connected: Yes

ID: 0x0aa1

Wattage (W): 85

Family: 0x0085

Serial Number: 0x00425911

Charging: No

⟐ Answer edited April 05, 2019 at 1:22 MST

Since the lines are steady, I don't think it's the gpu fault...

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Answer accepted September 28, 2017 at 4:20 MST

Concerns about iFixit: Posts from around the Web

• “Be wary of ifixit batteries,” (Reddit.com, August 1, 2018.)
• OWC or Apple Replacement Battery? (Forums.MacRumors.com, March 3, 2018.) LarryJoe33’s post (July 17, 2017) says his iFixit battery drops from 65% to 7% consistently. He said iFixit was unresponsive, and accused iFixit of sending him a battery that which today sells on Amazon for $37.99. He says the battery was a replacement not OEM.

Concerns about OWC

• OWC, you've lost me. This is a long thread in 2014. The gist is that somebody who used to be happy with OWC had a bad experience with a replacement battery.

Concerns about iFixit and OWC

• '''User''' '''JPack''' in the March 3, 2018 MacRumors.com post above, says that the only place you can buy an OEM battery outside of Apple is from Rewa. He says, “You're wasting your time (and money) with iFixit, OWC, and B&H. They're often selling B-grade batteries that have been rejected. Hence your 65% -> 7% experience. You might as well buy from AliExpress as the sellers source the same B-grade batteries.”

Positive Posts about OWC

• Newertech NuPower Mac Laptop Batteries – Review. OWC sells Newertech batteries, hence the review. This guy gave them 9/10 for a rating.

⟐ Commented August 12, 2025 at 13:36 MST

Here's what I did:

Tried resetting the SMC - which didn't seem to even work properly. The light on the power cord didn't blink to indicate anything had happened.

Startup progress bar also seems to stall for a noticeable 5-10 seconds now, about 3/4 of the way through. Not a killer, but a noticeable difference.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks!

⟐ Answer accepted September 18, 2020 at 17:27 MST

Idea is to put thin aluminium foil between the wifi antenna cables and the display! This could lower the interference between display and wifi emission.

Does anybody have idea, is it possible to accomplish!?

⟐ Answered February 06, 2021 at 12:10 MST

Holding all the keys down at once for a while seems to get them functioning properly. I've reset the PRAM and the SMC. After my most recent reset of the SMC, the fan came on LOUD and battery was not recognized.

Apple online help insists it is a hardware issue but hardware testing reveals no issues. tried cleaning carefully to no avail.

I've reinstalled he O/S under the guidance of an apple tech and had a brand new external hard drive backing up all my crap. I told the technician I was worried that El Capitan may have caused the issue and I thought perhaps a reinstall would get me back to mavericks but it didn't. I still have el capitan. So. Other than holding down all the keys or sometimes just one of the keys for a long time, nothing else really works. All those quirky "fixes" i heard about...toggling on and off mouse keys, etc...those seem to only help other people in small numbers. I'm thinking I should take it to apple but I am concerned about the cost. I can't seem to find out more about this tier level cost saving measure for fixing macbook pro mid-2012. Wish i could get some estimates before I trek out there with this thing. I read that one person in another country after a long phone call got repairs done FREE but that tech I spoke with didn't seem interested in that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

HELLO. I just want to report that after months of agonizing, abandoning, and then going back to trying things like SMC/PRAM resetting, reinstalling O/S, and popping out keys now and then to clean, I decided to wait until I had uninterrupted time in a perfectly sunlit room. I waited until my husband left essentially since i'm too easily distracted. I got every kind of key popping tool I could come up with. I'm STILL scared of doing it because I don't know if static can screw things up. I ended up using special toothpicks...the fancy ones...the triangular shaped G.U.M. ones, a little spatula for women's facial wax (don't ask), new unused eyeshadow brushes, super strong reading glasses, tweezers, and yes, my Dyson vacuum. I figured since it was seeming like I was going to have to pay through the nose to repair anyway, may as well risk causing the damage and hope they don't tell me what damage I caused with this step and how much this step cost me extra in dollars.

Well...somewhere I read in response to those who's " r-t-y-u-i" keys intermittently not responding or lagging, someone suggested cleaning the "e" key...They said they learned that the "E" key can be dirty, affecting other keys, even though "E" types fine. Essentially, the advice was to clean keys to the left of the problem keys. It's a strange problem because the keys intermittently don't work but I eventually figured out that they DID work, they just LAGGED...LAGGED BY A LOT OF SECONDS sometimes but DID work. Puzzling. Felt so much like a software issue since El Capitan was installed just prior to the problem. Then I though well...swollen battery seems to make sense too.. I seem to remember a great deal of HEAT that seemed not right...so much so that I felt it was wise to take the bottom protective add-on case off my macbook pro. I still have the top one on but I thought the plastic was perhaps insulating it too much even though it's made by apple. Heat still occurred. I recall even downloading an app for gamers...smc fan controller to control your fan when you want to cool things off. That seemed to help. I wondered if El Capitan's upgrade was incompatible with that app. Don't know.

Back to the "E" key. There it was...a cat hair. I cleaned a few other keys in that row..."P" key still loose since I cracked something on many of my cleanings but it's been about three days and the problem has NOT returned. I am including ALL this info in the hopes that others with the same problem can find this SOLVED post through keyword searches that appear in this wordy post. So, in conclusion, a key that works might be dirty and making other keys that are clean NOT work. Hope this all makes sense.

⟐ Answered April 03, 2023 at 8:55 MST