What do you recommend to repair data now since diskwarrior doesn’t work anymore for APFS drives?

⟐ Commented August 10, 2023 at 2:26 MST

There is no difference whether it is connected to the power supply or running on the battery. If you leave the MacBook powered off for some hours it may sometimes last over two hours before shuting down again. After the frist sudden shutdown the frequency of shutdown rises rapidly.

Also the shutdown might not be triggered by overheating. I tried benchmarking while watching temps after the reinstall of the OS and it lasted over two hours. 5-10 minutes after I stopped and the tempreture dropped the problem occured again.

My friend also sent the MacBook to Apple for a hardware test several times, but no problems were found yet.

I'm thinking about replacing the logic board.

Any opinion would be apprechiated.

EDIT 01/03/2017

I have not noticed anything while booting and there have not been any video problems apart from the blackscreen when the sudden shutdown occurs. (I have found this: Exchange and Repair Extension Programs - MacBook Pro video issues But, it does not match my friend's MacBook.)

The built-in hardware diagnostic tool stats that everything is correct. Maybe I should start the MacBook in verbos mode and videotape the output?

My friend will take the MacBook to an authorized service providor to have it taken apart, cleaned and the stained display replaced Apple StainGate Maybe they will find something...

⟐ Commented November 22, 2024 at 1:15 MST

⟐ Commented January 06, 2025 at 6:57 MST

It crashes randomly. Showing a black screen for 10 seconds and then turning off. When i turn it back on it mostly crashes again after 30 seconds.

I was not able to reproduce this problem manually. I tried to bring the Macbook to its maximum with 4k video, games, 4x yes-command, ssd-stress-test, etc etc ... but still it wont crash. And sometimes its working for 6 hours with no problem. But then another day suddenly it crashes when i just have Mail and Firefox opened! Also it doesnt matter if battery is empty or full or cable is connected.

I was in an Apple Store today and all of the hardware tests showed no abnormality and were fine. Battery is very fine too.

I dont have any more warranty (2 years, 2 month) and they said they can replace the Logicboard for about 500€.

Im desperate cuz the Macbook is my life, my work(-> income!), my studies, just everything.

⟐ Commented April 28, 2022 at 14:16 MST

The amount of pressure needed to move the screen is scary to say the least, it worries me that I might break the screen by just pushing a back a few degrees! It’s also is keeping the screen from staying closed. The torque holding the screen in an open position (~15 degrees) is great enough to keep the screen open even if it is laying upside down with the lower case weighing it down…

I replaced the display about a year ago and the battery about 4 months ago (with parts from ifixit). Both repairs went fine, and so far this is the only issue that has come up. I wouldn’t mind having to replace the hinges, the only problem is wire assembly going through each one. On the right hinge this wouldn’t be an issue, but the left has the %#*@ camera wire going through it, routing it all the way around to the top of the display assembly. It doesn’t look like the the camera wire can be threaded through the hinge without cutting one end of it. The other option is to remove the LCD to run a replacement camera up top.

So what would be most helpful is either, how can i restore the hinges to their original settings (most ideal option), or how can i replace both hinges without risking damage to the LCD. I haven’t ever used the camera, so sacrificing it wouldn’t be the end of the world, but whats the fun in that? (plus I’m not sure what kind of software consequences this will bring about) As nice as the replacement screen has been, I really don’t want to pay for a brand new one.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Display being held open

me applying pressure to keep it closed (it’s a lot)

the torque from the hinges is enough to overcome the weight of the lower case

⟐ Commented August 28, 2024 at 9:23 MST

I have a new airport time capsule, and I'd like to see backing up faster.

⟐ Commented October 28, 2022 at 9:27 MST

Can someone give me a possible diagnosis or assistance before I have to go give 600$ for repairing something 1/10 that price. IFIXIT suggests these might be unrepairable ourselves.

It’s horrible. Help!

Edit 1: Never dropped. Minor dings and dents due to usage exist. Movement of display or body does not affect the appearing or disappearing of the glitches whatsoever.

Edit 2: Pairs perfectly with an external display via HDMI, when not glitching. (Image)

⟐ Answered January 30, 2023 at 14:07 MST

⟐ Answer deleted April 26, 2022 at 18:02 MST

⟐ Commented January 10, 2021 at 13:01 MST

The SSD in my model is no longer the standard SATA connection. Apple changed the interface on the SSD.

The pin count on the SSD is 11+14. I need this adapter because the logic board died. I need to copy data from the SSD.

I'm looking for a device where I can copy data from one of these newer style SSD drives.

I checked with OWC they replied with the following:

"OWC Morgan G:

We are currently working on developing upgrade/replacement drives for the Late 2013 MBP w/Retina, as well as an external enclosure to house the stock Apple drive. However, at this time we do not have anything available."

Anyone else have any other suppliers I could try. This is a late 2013 model NOT 2012!

⟐ Commented November 09, 2023 at 9:30 MST

I want to know if this model is compatible before buy this battery.

Thanks you

⟐ Answered July 17, 2019 at 14:49 MST

⟐ Commented October 19, 2023 at 15:44 MST

Oops…

What should I do to fix it?

⟐ Commented February 19, 2021 at 7:11 MST

⟐ Answered March 02, 2017 at 3:45 MST

After a water spill, the MacBook Pro backlight stopped working. if I light the screen with a flashlight I can see everything there working, so I think is not a display issue (as the water came through the keyboard). I've seeing some answers about this, and I think it has to do with the fuse (Data Cable?) or the pin 1 of the LCD connector.

This is my computer info:

MacBook Pro 15.4" - Late 2013

Serial: C02LW42UFD56

Model #: A1398

Sales Number: ME293LL/A, ME294LL/A

Logic Board Serial: 820-3662-03

Any ideas guys? Thank you so much! :D

⟐ Commented October 08, 2017 at 13:15 MST

I really hope you can help me. I've searched the internet thin for answers with no luck. Please.

I'm running a Macbook Pro Retina 15" 2013 with macOS Sierra + bootcamp windows 10. The macOS partition is the default boot up partition.

When booting up it goes directly to BSOD (0x0000000e) in Windows 10. When trying to POWER + ALT it only shows Windows. Macintosh HD (macOS Sierra) is not visible.

I installed Windows 10 (bootcamp) before upgrading to macOS Sierra. Everything worked fine until I wanted to increase the harddisk size of the Windows partition. I used the Disk Utility to decrease the size of the Mac partition, which resulted in xx GB of unused space.

I then booted up Windows only to find that I was not able to allocate that unused space to Windows (using Partition Wizard).

I thought it was due to the fact, that the unused space wasn't formatted. I then formatted it (FAT) and this is where everything went sideways. My Mac went directly into Win10's BSOD when I restarted it.

I tried to use CMD + R when booting, only to have limited options:

• Press Apple icon and choose Disk to boot from (don't remember the name): It shows me the two partitions: Mac and Windows. It asks for a password to decrypt the Mac option, when I choose it. After entering the password it vanishes and only the Windows option is left.
• Trying to reinstall OSx: Since macOS Sierra is a later version than the Recovery Mode's El Capitan, it won't progress.

To be able to write this post, I've plugged in my Windows 10 install USB, formatted the Windows partition and reinstalled Windows 10. This has worked. When pressing POWER + ALT it now shows two Windows options. The new (working) one and the old (BSOD/unusable) one.

How do I boot into macOS? And how do I remove the second (old) windows option when POWER + ALT?

Thank you SO very much for taking the time to read my post. I really do appreciate it! :-)

Sincerely,

Oliver C.

⟐ Answered April 07, 2020 at 14:45 MST

There was no issue whatsoever before the replacement - and this is the only thing that went wrong during the battery replacement.

I have tried resetting the SMC and the PRAM - still the same thing.

Any thoughts?

Edit: Ran ASD - came back with the camera issue (Which is known)

Also came back with SMC issue (PFM006)

⟐ Answered June 16, 2020 at 2:30 MST

tl;dr If I press the power button, the MacBook Pro won't turn on at all: no startup chime and apple logo, keyboard light and caps lock do not light up. The battery would charge, indicator turns from red to green when full. Nothing on screen. The area where the processor/heatsink is located gets really hot really quickly. The only things that look like they work are the fans, which start spinning as soon as the power button is pressed and they get louder as the heatsink gets hotter. Resetting NVRAM/SMC did not work. Do you think the logic board is dead?

Long story:

5 days ago, the MacBook Pro was last used for general work at the office while being charged. After work, I closed the lid, put the MacBook Pro in my bag and drove back home. En route, the bag fell down from the car seat during a sharp turn and I remember thinking oh crap my macbook is inside but I forgot to check it out as soon as I got back.

It was around 12 hours later that I opened the MacBook Pro and noticed it would not wake up as usual from sleep. Tried pressing the keyboard, brightness key and power button and it did not work. Tried a hard shut down and boot up again. Did not work. I figured it might be running out of juice, so I closed the lid and put it back in the bag.

The MacBook Pro stayed in the bag for around 1 hour until I took it out again and was shocked to find out it was getting really hot. Like dangerously hot. The lid was still closed, the fans were blowing like crazy and the whole thing was burning. I opened the lid, tried to cool it down and the fans stopped blowing when I attempted a hard shut down.

After it cooled down for a few hours, I plugged it in to a charger. It charged normally and the indicator turned green after a few hours. I turned the MacBook Pro on. It won't turn on. The area where the heatsink is located got hot really quickly. I could hear the fans blowing gently and they got louder as it got hotter. Tried closing the lid but the fans would not stop blowing and the heatsink just got hotter so I turned it off by pressing the power button for a few seconds until I could hear the fans stopped. I have also tried resetting the NVRAM and SMC as many have advised but they did not work.

And this is where I am now. Tried opening the lower case but could not see anything wrong; nothing burnt or out of place. There was quite an amount of dust building up on the board which I tried to clean a bit but it still won't turn on. My main concern is the data on the SSD which I don't have any up-to-date backup of. I was thinking of getting an OWC Envoy Pro, hoping the SSD is fine before attempting any kind of repair.

Based on the symptoms, what do you guys think the problem might be? Is there anything I could try before sending it for repair?

Thanks in advance and any help is appreciated!

⟐ Commented July 01, 2021 at 8:42 MST

On an earlier machine, I was able to upgrade the LCD to a new one that wasn't available when the original model shipped.

Thanks!

⟐ Answer edited September 07, 2023 at 21:05 MST

I was wondering if anybody had any experience fixing this wire without disassembling the entire display. I was thinking if I stripped it and soldered an antenna connector from another display, it would work fine.

Any ideas?

⟐ Commented October 30, 2020 at 10:07 MST