After work (about 5 hours later) I found the keyboard keys weren't working right (no response to occasional response from enter, spacebar and delete keys, and one of the directional keys seemed to be constantly active - computer making bumping sound like incorrect key pressed), so I powered the laptop off and opened up the back to see if there was any liquid inside. The machine was bone dry inside, dust undisturbed with the only oddity being a slight coffee smell coming from the optical drive corner (drive was a little hesitant to release disk inside - took 2 tries to eject disk), but no smell anywhere else. Left the computer upside down for about a day to dry out some more (powered off) and popped off and cleaned the keys that weren't working with a damp cloth (water - dried thoroughly before popping back in place).

Powered the laptop on the next day and everything works except the keyboard. No response at all from any key, and the backlight only appears to be working in the very center of the board. However the computer does not sound as if it's working too hard, no overpowered fan noise, just operating normally. Currently is powered off and upside down with a small cooling fan on the keys.

Tried further drying by setting rice over the keys for a few hours, which was a mistake. Took a few hours to get the rice out that had seeped to the internals of the machine. I think there is still a rice piece stuck under the optical drive, but don't have the correct tools to pry it out yet.

Recently ordered a torc screwdriver to see if I can clean off the drive with some isopropanol, but not sure if I should replace the keyboard or not. Is there a way to fix it without replacing the whole thing? Would cleaning it with isopropanol as well help it? Should I try to clean everything since rice did get inside the machine?

⟐ Answered April 13, 2026 at 5:43 MST

I researched a lot online and did the following:

• Disabled Energy Saver - Automatic Graphics Switching on both Battery and Power Adapter mode
• Disabled Spotlight indexing for specific types of content and also added folders like “/System” in the Privacy settings
• Reset the System Management Controller (SMC)
• Performed the Apple Diagnostics test (ADT - some older websites called it the Apple Hardware Test - AHT) and had no issues come from that.
• I also use Google Drive’s “Backup and Sync” and do lots of web development with `node_modules` folders, that can have 10s of thousands of small files which I think results in CPU churn. I’ve disabled it now.
• Shut down the computer and turned it back on. Still get same issues with the external monitor.

Now with no external monitor plugged in, every once and a while the kernel_task rises up to 300% and sometimes rarely to 500%. I’m curious if it is a software thing or a hardware thing. To me it seems more like a software thing.

I use VS Code for programming which can have a lot of background tasks, same with using node/npm which can probably be doing lots in the background. I also run iStat v6.30, and sadly I have only 21 GB of free space on my HDD (out of 500 GB…). Often I also have Slack open, and I know that’s a web app using Electron to run as a desktop application, which can be notorious for performance.

Often the fans can run high as well. I often suspect it is either due to the VS Code/npm/node/Slack thing, or kernel_task, or maybe something else I’m unaware about.

When checking memory usage via iStat, I can see that kernel_task is using 1.61 GB (oof, Firefox is using 6.36 GB).

Things I haven’t tried yet:

• Cleaning out more free space from HDD
• Using plain HDMI cable into the HDMI cable port
• Taking MBP apart and cleaning any potential dust

Has anyone had similar experience with this issue and how to address it?

OS: 10.13.6

Processor: 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7

Memory: 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3

Graphics: AMD Radeon R9 M370X 2048 MB, Intel Iris Pro 1536 MB

⟐ Commented April 10, 2026 at 3:05 MST

I never tried this method yet just wondering if there is another method possible, the system is running nice and smooth apart from this 'issue'. It seems that I will need to do a clean install again to resolve this. @danj Any Idea on how to 'resolve this'?

UPDATE 06/04/26 I booted externally into Catalina & then Monterey (Internally & Externally). I Clean installed Catalina externally & booted. I used OCLP to install Sequoia but STILL we have the firmware update which does not install. I guess we have to wipe the SSD (Original 512 GB SSD from the unit) which is still installed, and clean install either El Capitan or Monterey to see if that clears the issue.

⟐ Edited by author April 06, 2026 at 18:40 MST

New logic board fixed that problem, got the computer running but a new series of issues has arisen:

1) originally the battery emblem had the grey X in it, and the power cord light is stuck green even though battery is not charged. Tried resetting NRAM/PRAM and the SMC, instead of fixing the issue the battery icon has disappear entirely. I also have tried running Coconut Battery which also does not detect the battery. Put a multimeter on the battery connection to the logic board and I am getting 3-12 volts on various pins (first thought was the DC in had gone bad).

2) Running High Sierra the settings menu Trackpad section does not detect the internal trackpad even though it is working. Instead it is stuck looking for a bluetooth magic pad. Trackpad works fine accept I can't change any settings and it does not recognize Right-Click. All other gestures work.

My question is, could this all be from a bad battery? Its like the computer thinks it is a desktop now the way the battery icon has vanished and it is looking for a magic pad. Im trying to avoid a 60-100 dollar battery unless I am sure it is the battery and not a module on the logic board, SMC, etc. Any recommendation are greatly appreciated for further testing or a definitive on what the issue is.

UPDATE: New battery has not fixed the issue. Battery is still not being detected by system settings or coconut battery. However, the logic board is drawing power as disconnecting the charger does not cause instant shutdown. System settings is still not recognizing the trackpad either.

I’ve reinstalled OS High Sierra from disk recovery to no avail. At this point I’m running out of options other than possibly a faulty logic board. I’m hesitant to call it that since the battery is providing power and the terminals on the logic board read 12v which would seem correct for a 10v battery.

Any other ideas on tests to run or hard resets are much appreciated. Only other hardware step that involes power is the MagSafe itself, which I may try to sneakily test one at a local Apple store before purchasing a new module. I’ll attempt to call iFIXIT regarding the logic board they sent me and see if they recommend trying another.

To recap: SMC and PRAM reset have not helped, reinstalling OD has not changed anything, Single User Mode fsck -fy has not repaired anything, replacing battery has only changed that the computer appears to be drawing power from the battery though not detecting it.

to be more specific, the battery icon will not appear. every time i change the setting to show battery percentage it resets the box to unchecked after a brief pause.

I've also tried reseating the RAM cards and the battery twice.

⟐ Answer edited April 05, 2026 at 10:59 MST

Actually I had no problems until I changed the battery. I changed the battery and ran it, I used it until it had 5% charge left and then I plugged it into the charger.

But, the next day when I turned on the computer, I got the error message that no battery was detected. I tried many things (PRAM & SMC). but the problem is that although it does not recognize the battery, it works with the battery and when I plug in the charging cable, the cable LED does not light up. there is also an excessive fan noise when running on battery and the fan never turns off. When I do SMC reset again, it does not see the battery again, but the cable LED lights Red and the computer shuts down when pulled.

⟐ Commented April 02, 2026 at 11:40 MST

I've tried all the suggested online fixes including reset NVRAM, reset SMC, Forced Restart, ran Disk Utility, Safe Mode starts, etc. and so far nothing has worked. Can't find anyone else here (yet, still sorting thru) having the same issue but my guess is it's Display related or possibly motherboard?

⟐ Answered March 30, 2026 at 16:40 MST

I have spilled bit of tea (no sugar) on my MacBook Pro 2015 (top right keyboard area, so around the right fan).

I have switched it off immediately and dried it for 3 days

I have switched it on today, it is working but kinda very slow.

I have IStat Menus:

All stats are looking fine except:

*Intel Iris GPU temperature at 0 degrees.

*High Kernel in my processes (around 500) and high CPU usage.

*High amperage CPU High (CPU, I/O) (95,8 A) and Radeon GPU core (75)

-> When the GPU switch to AMD, temperature is normal (36 degrees).

I have followed the steps from IfixIt to open it and remove the right fan: unplug battery, remove WiFi card, remove the right fan.

Brushed everything around that area with alcohol 96, but the issue is still here.

I do not know what to do as next step…

I feel I could continue the cleaning, bit deeper but I am not sure :-(

Do you have suggestions?

Thanks a lot for your help

EDIT 29.03.2026

Tanks a lot for the help!

I have taken off the logic board and indeed it was bit damaged below. I have cleaned all the impacted areas with iso alcool 96. If you see other areas that I should clean up let me know :)

Before:

After:

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 14:21 MST

The TouchID button has a small integrated flex/ribbon cable (labeled "00920-A") that then plugs into a secondary flex/ribbon that extends the original and changes its plug type so it can connect to the logic board under the headphone jack ribbon. That extender cable is labeled with "821-00645-A // MFC0517" and I've been able to find them for sale, but I can't find replacement TouchID sensor anywhere.

Powerbookmedic's listing for the palmrest claimed that the TouchID sensor is not included with the palmrest as they are "married to the logic board". Does that mean that if the TouchID sensor/button is damaged or if its cable is ripped, the ENTIRE LOGIC BOARD needs to be replaced?

Please, somebody, tell me that this isn't true.

⟐ Commented March 27, 2026 at 12:52 MST

the burnt section lifted up where can I find that block and what is it? The one labeled CN

that little CN chip is the only thing ai saw lifted and well with carbon build up. Not sure where to find that number on the board but I have a picture with the serial# and information if that helps some.

⟐ Answered March 21, 2026 at 10:01 MST

Also the fans are running at high speed during this whole time. Much louder than normal but not noisy just fast speed.

I took the bottom cover back off and inspected the cable connections on the logic board/etc. Nothing obvious found yet. The plug/jack connections look good, I didn't find anything obviously disconnected. I am thinking I might have to re-disassemble the unit to inspect more closely. Any tips on what I might have done wrong or damaged inadvertently ?

Thanks,

Dan

⟐ Commented March 13, 2026 at 13:04 MST

When first connected to charge , heard booting sound , but lid was closed
After charge completed , opened the lid and pressed power button , nothing happens

Any idea

FYI : I have connected only one fan as I broke fan connector during disassembly

Solved : As the accept comment below, I missed the keyboard connection, so the power button didn't work. Realized this system started automatically booting up on charging and lifting lid

Thanks all for the response

⟐ Commented March 10, 2026 at 9:15 MST

⟐ Commented March 09, 2026 at 16:58 MST

My Mid 2015 A1398 15" Macbook Pro needed new speakers.

I bought replacement speakers & after all the hassle of installing them, they sound truly awful & with very low output. The connections are firm.

I then sought & bought genuine Apple Speakers which have the printed markings on them.

The Speakers in my MBP have 6 Connecters at the end of the cables but these replacement genuine Apple speakers who the seller confirmed also came from a 15" A1398 2015 MBP have only 4 Connectors - two at each end with the middle ones missing.

I really do not want to go through the hassle & time it takes to replace the Speakers only to then find these 4 connector also will have issues.

Can anyone tell me definitively if these 4 Connector ones will sound just as good & as loud as the 6 Connector ones? I was thinking maybe they were for 2012-2014 models & Apple might have upgraded with 6 Connectors on the 2015 model?

Many Thanks!

⟐ Answer accepted March 07, 2026 at 7:01 MST

At some point in Novemer last year I updated the computer to Big Sur 11.6 from a previous version of Big Sur, and immediately noticed that I could no longer control the screen brightness via any method - keyboard, Control Center, System Preferences, or Terminal - and that the brightness was stuck at around 50-75%. The keyboard brightness controls don't have any effect, the brightness slider in the Control Center is grayed out, and there is no brightness control at all in System Preferences. Attempting terminal commands to change the brightness also produced no result. The display brightness isn't adjustable in any alternate boot mode either - safe mode, recovery mode, or even when booted into an installer from a USB drive.

Things I've tried:

• Multiple SMC and PRAM resets.
• Reformatted the SSD and performed a clean install downgrade back to an older version of Big Sur from USB.
• Tried that again, this time also deleting the recovery partition if my memory is correct - this was in December.
• Updated back up to Big Sur 11.6.
• Disconnected the battery.
• Unplugged and reseated the display cables to the logic board.
• I even decided to try out an OpenCore Legacy Patcher Monterey installer I had sitting around to see if forcing a newer os install might refresh something, but the same problem persists.

I'm attaching screenshots of what the Control Center and System Preferences show.

Nothing I've tried has had any effect, and the display brightness still cannot be controlled. The computer has sat for months now because I replaced it with a new M1 Pro Macbook Pro in December, and the old laptop became a low priority. It bothers me though to have an otherwise perfectly functional Macbook Pro that was broken by a software update. Is there anything else I can try as a computer-savvy person? (I don't know if the Apple store would even work on this laptop, as it is "vintage" and has had non-Apple repairs made to it in the past.)

As an aside, the computer has an aftermarket SSD, and a replacement display installed by me. The replacement display worked flawlessly for about three years before this issue happened, so I don't think it's the fault of the display.

Thanks.

⟐ Commented March 02, 2026 at 13:47 MST

When the Mac is turned on, there is no orange light. The green light turns on briefly and then goes off and then again turns on and so on.

I replaced the charging cable, but the issue still remains. However, when I tried using my friends charger, the Mac charged normally.

I know the issue is in the power adaptor, but do i have to replace the whole adaptor or just its shoe

⟐ Answer edited February 28, 2026 at 5:36 MST

⟐ Commented February 26, 2026 at 1:28 MST

⟐ Commented February 24, 2026 at 2:36 MST

⟐ Commented February 18, 2026 at 9:27 MST

Our collection of Magsafe 2 chargers didn't have an +80W charger. I got my Magsafe 1 to 2 adapter and tried an 85W brick. It would get a quarter of the way through booting and then would boot loop back to the start. Seems that everything I was seeing of 15" pros can't run without the battery appears to be true.

My question, is there a way to take the existing battery board and attach something to it to give the laptop the oomph it needs in times like booting up, and can withstand being plugged in a lot? I'm not an expert on the circuitry and software involved in Macs charge by any means, but I figured that there would be people on here that'd know. Or know someone that knows.

My drive for this is that it feels like getting a good quality battery over and over again doesn't feel feasible in the long term for these machines. And it is definitely not cost effective for the places that people dump otherwise working devices on. I'd like to find an alternative if possible.

⟐ Answer edited February 16, 2026 at 19:50 MST

I have mid 2015 15" Macbook Pro with i7 4870hq CPU.

I installed Volta app to undervolt and for measurement istats and intel power gadget.

With trial and error i found that i can go for up to -85mV. Can go for -95mV but it doesn't differ in terms of performance.

Tested the performance with cinebench r20, i get around %8-10 performance increase but i mostly get around 95-98 degrees temperature on CPU. It gets hot so quickly. I couldn't make it cooler much with undervolting. I think CPU idle degree is a little bit lower, like 55 to 47 degrees.

I installed mac fans control and increased the fans to their max rpms but didn't change anything.

Is there anything i can do more? What would be your recommendations?

I used cinebench as benchmark tool, what can i use in addition? I used geekbench but i get a little bit lower results like 5-20 points.

Thanks

⟐ Commented February 13, 2026 at 17:37 MST