After some investigation, I'm fairly sure the problem is a blocked grille. But it's hard to identify which (if any) of the hundreds of dimples on the left-hand side are actual holes and therefore need cleaning. Is there any information on this?

⟐ Answer accepted March 23, 2026 at 13:25 MST

i added videos:
headphones on macbook
desktop speakers on macbook
same headphones on an old elitebook

⟐ Commented March 21, 2026 at 18:14 MST

⟐ Answered March 13, 2026 at 20:40 MST

⟐ Commented March 06, 2026 at 5:00 MST

⟐ Commented February 13, 2026 at 6:24 MST

⟐ Answered January 12, 2026 at 19:32 MST

macbook pro 14 inch 2021 a2442, i already bought the LCD only panel, but no steel bracket

i find guides on youtube guys telling to stick the old bracket to new LCD with tesa tape model 66822, but i can't buy it in my country, can i just use 3M tissue tape?

or it will risk cracking the LCD glass on assembly process cause by pressure or movement while fitting it into bezel?

any tape suggested to use around the bezel surrounding LCD also? i see it was so thin

⟐ Answer unaccepted January 07, 2026 at 4:24 MST

⟐ Commented December 23, 2025 at 4:34 MST

Left connected to dock with power delivery via usb c for 24-36 hours and when I came back it doesn't want to turn on

⟐ Answered December 17, 2025 at 6:58 MST

⟐ Answered November 28, 2025 at 17:25 MST

Last night I took the trackpad out again and did my best to reseat it correctly.

I'm still not sure if it's correct--compared to my work laptop (a 2024 MacBook Air) the trackpad is clearly indented a fraction of a millimeter -- you can feel it with your fingers when you swipe off the trackpad. On my MacBook Pro, some edges of the trackpad feel like they are underneath the chassis, while others (especially the bottom right corner of the trackpad) feel perfectly flat with the chassis.

Some questions:

1. What is normal for a 2021 MacBook Pro? Should the trackpad be slightly indented below the chassis? (P.S. this is why the repair manual needs more than just "do it in reverse")
2. As I have things now, is it likely that the trackpad is still rubbing on the screen? I'm probably going to want to replace the screen now, and I don't want to spend $500 and then ruin the new screen because the trackpad still isn't right.
3. If the trackpad is wrong, how can I get it lower? I've already tried reseating it, and it does not seem to want to go any lower in the chassis. Am I missing something?

⟐ Commented November 05, 2025 at 15:11 MST

So I sent it to some guy on YouTube or company on YouTube in Virginia. They charged me $200 to tell me that I need to have parts replaced on the circuit board that will cost me over $1,000 or $600. And then I found the guy on eBay and he's been working on my laptop and said that there were about four capacitors that shorted out.

So I think that your problem's probably related to bad capacitors. It could be shorting out the rest of the board so it's best not to have it plugged up at all. And if you're looking to have somebody fix it, you probably will have to pay about $300 to $400 if you go with somebody off of eBay

⟐ Answered November 03, 2025 at 17:21 MST

I also found that one of the USB-C ports on the left side isn’t functioning at all—it doesn’t detect USB drives, while the other USB-C port works fine (though still no charging).

I followed tutorials and opened the MacBook, but everything looks intact. All the ports appear undamaged, and there’s no visible wear or issue.

This problem started suddenly, with no prior warning or incidents. I’ve been using the official Apple charger and cable.

As part of troubleshooting, I tried downgrading macOS using another Mac, but that didn’t help. I've also tried replacing the faulty usb-c and MagSafe connectors with ones from a working MacBook Pro, but the issue persists. I’m starting to suspect that the logic board is the problem, even though I haven’t done anything to damage the Mac.

At the moment, the battery is at 100%, and the MagSafe LED is green, but the Mac still isn’t recognizing the Apple Power Adapter (see attached photo).

Do you have any suggestions on how to proceed?

⟐ Commented November 03, 2025 at 14:42 MST

I haven't used this Mac much so I usually only turn it on every month and the battery is dead so I have to charge it for 10 min or more before it can turn on on 1% battery and I can use it. I also usually don't turn it off and I guess it turns itself off by running out of battery.

Do I need to change the battery or how can I what's wrong with it ?

⟐ Commented November 02, 2025 at 4:45 MST

Thank you

⟐ Answer edited October 27, 2025 at 6:34 MST

What i notice when i boot and i need to enter the password, the return key get triggered 1x (because the password prompt is shaking), i installed karabiner_elements to rebind the right shift key to return, and i got a error message that it looks like the return/enter key is hold down.

I opened the mac again and reseated the keyboard cable (i didn't touched it before), but no change. i started in diagnostic mode and the return key is not working as well.

Is there maybe a common issue/fix? the issue started directly after the repair and i used the macbook just before and after the repair

EDIT: the situation changed... now the return key virtually pressed down all the time

when i press the return key, it goes back to normal. after some seconds (5-40) the

return key pressed down again(like holding the key down)

i don't have to touch anything, it just happens and make using the mac impossible (as a workaround i disabled the return key with karabiner elements)

⟐ Answer edited October 26, 2025 at 15:45 MST

⟐ Commented October 22, 2025 at 6:01 MST

⟐ Commented October 10, 2025 at 15:34 MST

What I've tried:

• Charged for 3 hours via USB-C
• Tried external monitor (no output)
• SMC reset attempt (hold power 10 seconds)
• All key combinations for recovery mode

Diagnostics so far:

• When plugged into USB-C power bank, one port draws 3-12W (varying/cycling), the other ports only 0.1-0.3W
• No response to any key presses
• No startup chime, no display output on internal or external monitor
• Power draw pattern happens automatically when plugged in (seems like boot loop?)

Opened it up (followed iFixit guide):

• No visible water damage or corrosion
• Battery connector logic board side: 1.5V
• Battery side: 0.0V (completely dead battery?)
• Tried booting with battery disconnected - same behavior

Questions:

1. Could the dead battery be preventing boot even with external power?
2. Is this likely a logic board issue?
3. Why is the battery showing exactly 0V? Isnt that weird?
4. Worth trying anything else before taking it for professional repair?

The machine looks pristine physically, so I'm hoping it's fixable. Any insights appreciated.

⟐ Commented October 06, 2025 at 9:53 MST

When I start the MacBook up I can’t type anything in the field where normally type the password

Also the mouse is not moving , only the button that is working is the power button on the keypad.

When I hold this it will switched off and if I do a combination keys for starting in recovery mode works either.

Should this be the problem of the small cable that is connected from the battery to the motherboard or the wide cable from the touchpad to the motherboard.

For my opinion the band cables is correct connected.

⟐ Commented September 24, 2025 at 11:52 MST