This laptop worked flawlessly up till Feb 2021, when the battery died —seven years, kudos for the quality control! I had iFixit's for a good reputation brand and decided to buy a replacement battery to extend my machine's life. Well, the new battery worked as expected, but died suddenly on Sep 2023, just 2 ½ years after being installed.

Since I still had use for this laptop, I decided to buy another replacement from iFixit on Oct 2023. This battery lasted exactly the same as the first one: it died on me last month (Apr 2026).

So, I'm wondering if it's just me or these items last less than half —almost a third— as an original Apple battery. If I had known, I would have taken the laptop to the original service center for repair. Anyone from iFixit here to answer my question? Because I'm about to buy from another provider, since my two purchases didn't live up to expectations.

⟐ Commented May 08, 2026 at 4:22 MST

⟐ Answered May 08, 2026 at 0:05 MST

I suspect the issue may be the battery ribbon cable, which I’ve already ordered, but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this or knows what the problem might be.

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented May 05, 2026 at 5:06 MST

I’ve searched everywhere: online stores, marketplaces, spare parts sites… nothing reliable, nothing in stock, nothing that I can actually trust.

This tiny cable is literally the only thing stopping me from fixing my MacBook. Without it, the device is useless. I really don’t want to replace the whole machine over something like this.

Does anyone here know where I can find this part?
Even used or refurbished would be totally fine at this point.

Any help would seriously mean a lot.

⟐ Answer edited May 05, 2026 at 1:50 MST

The power key is the only one still responding, so I've been using a USB keyboard and mouse, but that isn't exactly practical to bring to classes.

My assumption is that it's a loose cable, as I was told by the Genius bar that the keyboard and trackpad are controlled by the same cable (they told me my laptop was scrapped and I needed to purchase a whole new one...how about no?).

Does anyone have any ideas or advice? What does the cable for the trackpad/keyboard look like so I can open up the bottom and see if it's loose?

Thanks!

⟐ Commented April 29, 2026 at 13:34 MST

However, spot 1 seems to be occupied by a Torx screw. That's also the case for my laptop.

Both my laptop and online guides can't give me any idea about where the Phillips screw should go.

Thanks in advance.

Citation: https://documents.cdn.ifixit.com/MiYk55l...

I am surprised by the fact that the Phillips screw is supposed to sit on top of the Torc screw.

⟐ Commented April 28, 2026 at 17:34 MST

I wanted to try my hand at replacing the thermal compound, which was looking very crusty, on my old MacBook Pro. It was my first time, so I was quite prepared for any mistakes I might make. I was doing it for the experience.

As I removed the heatsink, I pulled it sideways rather than up, knocking it against the capacitor below the CPU.

After doing some dugging, I found out that it's the C1060 capacitor. See the boardview below and the relevant extract from the schematics.

The computer works. I ran Cinebench, and the kernel didn't panic or anything. I assume it's a matter of luck.

I am considering whether to buy a heatgun myself or give it to a professional. A heatgun costs around 80€. I have asked a local professional for a quotation.

Does anyone have any insight into this problem, any recommendations? Should I take it to a professional to get it fixed? Is it worth fixing? Is it worth buying the equipment to try and do it myself?

⟐ Commented April 28, 2026 at 5:11 MST

1) While typing the key jumps to different places in the document.

2) The battery charges to 100%, in approx 4hrs to 50% then dies to 1% shut down. Apple suggests reset SMC, But the LEFT SHIFT KEY will not reset SMC.

⟐ Answer edited April 27, 2026 at 18:29 MST

Thank you

⟐ Commented April 27, 2026 at 9:55 MST

I have already:

1. Transferred the battery board data cable and ensured it is seated correctly in the ZIF connectors.

2. Verified that the T5 power connector pancake screw is snug and making a good connection.

3. Performed an SMC reset.

4. Tried leaving it on the charger to wake it from a potential deep sleep state.

Everything is snug and tight, but the new battery still shows no signs of life. Is there anything else I should check, or is it likely a defective part?

⟐ Answered April 27, 2026 at 6:32 MST

⟐ Answered April 27, 2026 at 4:10 MST

Can you please call me I’m looking for an adapter that allows me to plug in a 2016/2017 non touch bar SSD drive to either a USB-A or USB-C port to read and test drives externally.

I would need about 10 of them.

Apple Blade SSD 5GA 34+22 Pins NVMe

⟐ Commented April 23, 2026 at 14:24 MST

I'm assuming that I did not reconnect one of the cables properly on reassembly, so will be opening it back up, and it would be helpful if I had a sense of which cable to look at when I had it open, as the prior teardown was extensive, delicate, and time-consuming.

I used three different teardown guides as there isn't one specifically for this model (1st Gen M1 13" MBP, late 2020). The main teardown guide I used is this: MacBook Pro 13" Two Thunderbolt Ports 2020 Touchbar Removal

Unfortunately not every cable connection is identified.

Is there a map of the internal [microphone] connections available for this (or similar) Macbook Pros?

⟐ Answered April 19, 2026 at 19:19 MST

⟐ Commented April 17, 2026 at 7:49 MST

⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 19:18 MST

It seems completely dead, no sign of life.

The Magsafe led is briefly green, then stays orange.

The light is also orange if I unplug the battery from the logic board.

The battery was replaced by a repair place a few years ago.(non oem replacement)

There is no sign of corrosion/moisture ingress.

One of the sections of battery has inflated quite a bit and a couple other sections inflated a tiny bit.

I have tried unplugging the battery and MagSafe then holding the power button for over 15 seconds. But this made no difference.

With the battery plugged back in and the MagSafe plugged back in (and orange) I've tried the SMC reset (shift control option Power 10') and when released the MagSafe does go Green briefly and then goes back to Orange.

It seems pretty obvious that I need to change the battery but before I spend £80 on such an old laptop I wondered if there's any way to diagnose this further in case there's some other problem. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare charger to test.

Much thanks in advance.

⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 17:38 MST

⟐ Commented April 13, 2026 at 16:54 MST

Recently bought an early 2015 MacBook Pro 13" which had light water damage.

Opened it up and gave it a quick clean (rice everywhere...)

Only problem I can see is the MacBook can see the battery but wont charge and says it needs replacing (only 17 cycles)

The MacBook only works when connected to the charger.

Now I have a 2014 MacBook Pro 13" which functions normally.

Can I plug that battery into the 2015 model to test that it definitely is a problem with the battery before buying a replacement?

Don't want to waste money buying a replacement battery if that wont fix the issue.

Cheers!

*Update*

Info from coconutBattery

⟐ Commented April 10, 2026 at 2:55 MST

The battery icon in the menu bar says 'Service Recommended' and shows 0% even after charging overnight.

What I’ve checked so far:

*The MagSafe light stays orange.

*I performed an SMC reset, but it didn't change the status.

*I checked the cycle count in System Report, and it's at 950 cycles.

Is it definitely time for a battery replacement, or could this be an issue with the DC-In board or the logic board charging circuit?

If I replace the battery, are there any specific tips for removing the adhesive safely?

Thanks!"

⟐ Edited April 06, 2026 at 14:32 MST