This morning, I launched my MacBook and the trackpad and keyboard were not responsive. After about 30 seconds, a little window popped up saying "Bluetooth keyboard setup. There isn't a keyboard connected." I have left this window for as long as 15 minutes but nothing changes.

I have tried restarting my MacBook but this keeps happening. It has happened at least ten times.

I have also tried doing this in safe mode but this does not seem to make a difference.

I don't know if it matters, but for the past six weeks or so, I have been charging my iPhone 6s Plus via one of the USB ports. The cord is a little frayed and the connection isn't always perfect. When my iPhone would connect, it used to switch to the "photos" app, but it's hasn't done this for about a week, although the phone is still charging.

I have no idea what to do; my MacBook has now been rendered completely useless by this glitch. The keyboard and trackpad are completely unrecognised by the computer itself.

Any and all help are much appreciated.

⟐ Commented September 22, 2022 at 8:31 MST

I touch it once and it puts two b characters for me most of the time, but not always. This key is much looser and more sensitive than the others.

Suggested by @pydev, I removed the key cap. It does work flawlessly without the key cap. But when I put it back, same old story.

Any ideas?

—

Update: Here's a software solution working around the problem.

Update: Apple has announced a MBP Late 2016 — Butterfly keyboard's key double hit problem for macbooks with butterfly keyboard.

⟐ Commented July 31, 2022 at 23:17 MST

⟐ Answered August 06, 2020 at 16:01 MST

It's an absolute nightmare to remove the keyboard due to the strength of the rivets and the fact that the back of the keyboard is a PCB material, so it breaks apart rather than coming off in one piece (like older models). You have to push the plastic keys inward to remove it, since you cannot rip it out, which slightly bends the aluminium cutout for the palmrest (although this can be rebent easily).

The issue I am having is fitting the new keyboard. I have removed a few rivets, and no matter if I pull, twist or knock out the rivets (all proven methods with Air and older Retina models), the rivets do not completely come out. Apple have made the tip of the rivet slightly smaller than the rest, so a bit of the rivet will always stay inside the hole, preventing the usual keyboard screws from going in due to the shallowness of the hole.

I have not removed all the rivets, since I want to see if anyone has any ideas of a way of completely removing the rivet, or how to secure the keyboard in the palmrest properly (before I remove all of the rivets).

I've attached a picture of the palmrest with the keyboard removed, and you can see the rivets (the head on these are very strong, and always stay attached to the rivet, which makes keyboard removal very tough), the holes left after the rivets are removed, and also the screw holes (there are a few screws holding the keyboard in, mainly the corners and lower right of the palmrest when looking at the back of it).

Bonus picture attached of the state of the keyboard after removal :) Any advice is appreciated! If anyone needs any clearer pictures, let me know and I'll take some more when in shop tomorrow

⟐ Commented December 19, 2024 at 7:51 MST

⟐ Commented September 18, 2021 at 14:52 MST

Yesterday it did happen two times in a raw, first pop then 30 sec later pop again.

I can't reproduce it but it sounds exactly like in this video:

https://vimeo.com/205326504

Is it a electronic discharge? Or is it from the speakers?

Is not a "metallic" sound anyway.

Here is an other video of the issue:

https://youtu.be/H2gxz53QTZ4

⟐ Commented October 07, 2019 at 15:01 MST

⟐ Commented February 15, 2018 at 2:21 MST

I’ve facing screen flashing problem last few week.

I’ve tried SMC & NVRAM reset. But not work for me. Screen still flickering/flashing.

I’ve also format my Macbook and install fresh copy of macOS High Sierra. Yesterday, I’ve update macOS Mojave. Still facing flickering/flashing problem.

Note: When I’ve moving the cursor “screen doesn’t flickering/flashing”.

Also If I’ve play any video(only) in any player or play youtube video “screen doesn’t flickering/flashing”.

If I’ve Minimize the player or bowser “screen flickering/flashing”.

**I’ve tried plug in the power cord & remove the plug of power cord, still facing the problem.

Check the video and Please advice me.

⟐ Answer edited August 17, 2019 at 13:03 MST

Does anyone know where the power pads are on the 2016 MacBook Pro 13" A1708?

The keyboard had liquid damage but the battery and logicboard are still receiving power.

I want to test the board/screen but I can't turn it on because the keyboard is damaged.

Any ideas?

⟐ Commented February 24, 2018 at 9:34 MST

Anyone know where to find correct adaptor for internal SSD for a MBP A1708.

Mainboard had water damage, and need to save some files from harddrive.

Best Anders

⟐ Commented January 06, 2023 at 10:15 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 05, 2018 at 10:36 MST

I’ve attached my Coconut Battery results. Is there anything I can do or does this battery really need to be serviced?

Thank you for your help!

UPDATE 11/15/2018 For anyone else who has this problem: My battery was eligible for replacement under the “13-inch MacBook Pro (non Touch Bar) Battery Replacement Program.” “Apple has determined that, in a limited number of 13-inch MacBook Pro (non Touch Bar) units, a component may fail causing the built-in battery to expand. This is not a safety issue and Apple will replace eligible batteries, free of charge. Affected units were manufactured between October 2016 and October 2017 and eligibility is determined by the product serial number.” You can check your serial number here: https://www.apple.com/support/13inch-mac...

⟐ Commented May 20, 2021 at 1:34 MST

I've temporary replaced the screen to confirm my thoughts and the issue was gone. So, it must be sitting somewhere on the LCD panel, anyone knows where?

My guess it's somewhere on the LCD plate since I disconnected facetime and LED light flex cables and didn't reproduce this issue on the new screen.

Here's what hardware test saying: https://prnt.sc/k9i9n4

So, basically it should be located somewhere on this LCD plate:

⟐ Commented February 12, 2021 at 16:03 MST

The device is a Macbook Pro Core i5 (or i7 I am unsure) 2.0 13” 2016 (Model: a1708)

It has a 256gb PCIe-based SSD (Model: 656-0041C)

⟐ Commented October 21, 2020 at 5:32 MST

1: Replacing the SSD with a brand new one

2: Replacing the logic board with one from eBay.

If either of these will work, please let me know because I really would like to make a profit off of it. If neither of these will work, does anyone know of anything I could do to fix it? By the way, it is locked with a 7-digit pin, not a 4-digit one.

⟐ Answered October 03, 2024 at 0:53 MST

Now on Catalina, issue first appeared on Sierra

Hello everyone,

I have this recurring problem on my Mac. I brought it to Apple several times, each time they changed the topcase which didn’t help the issue. Now they don’t want to do anything anymore without me paying as it’s out of warranty. I am very disappointed as I’ve never been able to enjoy my Mac at all.

The problem is the following:

My MacBook pro suddenly freezes and then shutdown. If I turn it back on it says “Your Mac Shutdown because of a problem” And I can either reopen all apps or not, but I don’t have the diagnosis option.

 It becomes more and more frequent as I use it. In other words the issue comes faster and faster after the mac is turned on.

For example if I don’t use my mac for 1 week and that I turn it on, it can go without freezing and shutting down for 3/4 hours. After the first freeze and shutdown, the second come like 45 minutes afterwards. If I turn it on a third time after the second freeze and shutdown, it will only work for 20mn before freezing and shutting down again. And so on. About halfway through the day it just freeze and crash before I can even type my password to access my desktop, which makes the machine unusable at all for the day.

I tried unsuccessfully the followings:

I tried to reset NVRAM

I tried to erase the disk and then reinstall MacOS from the recovery partition

I was on High Sierra, I tried to update to Catalina through the internet recovery mode, (CMD OPT R), the update happened but issue still is here

I tried (sort of) successfully the followings:

Safe Mode: The issue does not occur

Any idea to help is very welcome! :)

Thank you in Advance,

Bondurand

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for getting back to me.

1) Unfortunately I do not get the prompt window where I can have the report. This is because the computer shutdown (It doesn’t restart). The only prompt window I have asks if I want to open what was open when it shutdown.

2) They did not replace the logic board. This is because when they do a hardware diagnosis, all components show up OK. (I did one myself too and it was all fine)

3) Unfortunately, my mac is not eligible for the SSD program because it wasn’t purchase in 2017 but in 2016, when apparently units were not affected. I’ll try to be more insisting when I go back, thanks!

4) I want to explore the “Safe Mode” aspect, it doesn’t shutdown at all in “Safe Mode” (I let it run 4k video overnight and it was still running in the morning). My understanding is that if it works fine in “Safe Mode”, it means something that is activated during Normal Mode but that is not activated during safe mode is responsible. How could I test these elements one by one ? The responsible could be something I don’t care much about like location or bluetooth …

Thanks again guys!

⟐ Answered January 10, 2022 at 7:42 MST

⟐ Comment deleted March 09, 2021 at 10:55 MST

To get to the point, essentially the spacebar on my late 2016 MacBook Pro went stiff and came off when I tried to fix it, attached is a photo of the key for context and I’m just wondering what exact solutions are there and is this fixable by just buying a new key or must the entire keyboard be replaced.

https://m.imgur.com/a/qgbVQ3t

If you’re wondering I was able to remove the butterfly mechanism from the key but it will not stay in the socket for the key.

Thanks for your time

⟐ Commented January 28, 2020 at 13:16 MST

Thanks :)

⟐ Commented March 10, 2019 at 15:05 MST

I was trying to fix my aunts Macbook as her little son spilled a little bit water over it. As I always wanted to fix a water damaged macbook once in my life I thought I give it a try. I bought an ultrasonic device and the right cleaning solution and cleaned it with it.

Now I inspected the board visually after all the white blueish things went away and saw that a few caps have no silver solder on their ends, instead you can see the ceramic part of the caps exposed. I want to change these but I am not sure how to find out which ones would suite it? Could anyone identify these?

I also need the same ones on the backside of the logic board (they look the same 100%).

Thank you all for your contribution :-)

@reecee thanks again for your input on this. I will check the caps once my new multimeter will arrive. I will also try your tip with the detached keyboard etc. (I checked the keyboard, trackpad etc on another machine tho and all these parts seemed to work fine).

I also took picture of the logic board before I began to clean it. Here are they

Might help with understanding the current state more. This is the only area that was affected by the liquid spill as far as I could see as the water indicator on the other side was white but these two on the charging port side where marked red and that region had that blueish white stuff around the smd parts too.

I took pics of different angles too so if you need a specific area, name or mark it and I try to find out if I have pictures of it.

Thanks again for the help!

Cheers

@oldturkey03 Sorry for the late reply, I somehow missed your comment. Yes here is a picture of these caps I am talking about (I only took a picture of one side but the other side looks the same with the same problem).

Upon further inspection I found this cap that is missing it's silver contact pad too (the cap in the red circle)

And these Inductors (i think these are inductors, sorry if i am wrong here) don't seem to be happy as well

un edited pic

Cheers

The two chips mentioned by @reecee appear to have corrosion under them which can clearly be seen in this picture bellow:

The two chips up close

Different angle

According to iFixit these are 2x Texas Instruments CD3215B03 66AQ8YW G1 that are nowhere available?

So a reflow with some flux should maybe remove the corrosion under these chips I guess?

⟐ Answer accepted January 07, 2018 at 12:12 MST