Since then, the system has exhibited the following issues:

1. The Dock magnification is glitching; it only magnifies the icon previously hovered over rather than following the cursor.

2. I am unable to launch any applications using either the trackpad or an external mouse.

Hardware context: The laptop has 16GB of DDR3 RAM and a 250GB SSD (with 195GB free). It is currently running without a battery and has one blown speaker.

Could the damaged camera cable be causing these UI and input issues, or is this related to the OCLP installation? If it is a software issue, how can I troubleshoot or fix this?

⟐ Answered July 02, 2026 at 0:25 MST

I’m looking for some help with a MacBook Pro 13” Retina (2017, Touch Bar model).

I recently replaced the battery. The replacement went smoothly, and after reconnecting everything and checking the connections multiple times, the MacBook powers on normally and correctly recognizes the new battery.

However, since the battery replacement, I’ve been experiencing the following issues:

• The keyboard does not work at all.
• The trackpad does not work and does not physically click (it feels completely locked).
• The right cooling fan does not appear to work properly.
• On every startup, the left fan immediately ramps up to a very high speed and keeps spinning loudly, regardless of system load.

The MacBook itself boots and operates normally with an external keyboard and mouse, and the battery is detected correctly by macOS.

I’ve already reopened the MacBook and checked the battery and flex cable connections, but I haven’t found anything obviously disconnected or damaged.

Has anyone experienced something similar after a battery replacement? Could this be related to the trackpad flex cable, keyboard/trackpad connector, fan connector, or perhaps a sensor that is no longer being detected?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered June 28, 2026 at 16:21 MST

⟐ Commented June 27, 2026 at 19:06 MST

⟐ Answered June 27, 2026 at 13:24 MST

The Macbook turns on only when it is plugged in, but if I unplug it while it's on, it can stay on for hours (with the fan working at full speed).

Here's what I've done so far:

1. 1. Tried a whole bunch of combinations of draining and then recharging the battery, restarting in recovery mode, etc.
2. 2. Tried two other battery data cables from seemingly reputable companies - I even tried a tape trick to try for a better connection, it did nothing in my case
3. 3. Got a second replacement battery from ifixit (they kindly sent one for free)

So far, none of these attempts have made a difference.

To me, it seems to be an issue with the data transfer from the battery to the rest of the computer, but I think I've ruled out a good number of culprits. Usually, I'm able to figure these problems out on my own, but not this time. Any help would be highly appreciated!

⟐ Answer accepted June 22, 2026 at 7:01 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 19, 2026 at 13:15 MST

I have some display assembly's here that are not labeled for which model they were from ...... is there a small marking on the hinges or something that I can go by to ID which is which? There are no stickers or numbers I can cross check present. I am fearful to just try them on different models and see what works in case their incompatibility will cause some harm..... I cannot find any part numbers anywhere. Late 2013 and Mid 2014 displays (661-8153, 2015 is (661-02360). Under the clutch cover and removing the antenna, still there is nothing that I see that is recognizable in google to suggest a model year.... stumped.

⟐ Commented June 19, 2026 at 7:45 MST

⟐ Commented June 19, 2026 at 6:13 MST

⟐ Answer accepted June 19, 2026 at 4:36 MST

Thank you very much.

⟐ Commented June 19, 2026 at 4:26 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 18, 2026 at 6:57 MST

TIA

⟐ Answered June 17, 2026 at 16:05 MST

I am getting video as I can put a flashlight behind the screen and actually see the boot processing, same thing with an external display.

I read a bit on the backlight fuse and the driver chip too but cant seem to find some images on internet for my specific model.

I took a picture of my bord near the video connector to show you guys where I think my fuse is (the one with a little P on it) and how can I check if its the fuse or the driver...

Thanks

Mickael

⟐ Commented June 17, 2026 at 5:31 MST

⟐ Commented June 11, 2026 at 15:46 MST

⟐ Answered June 11, 2026 at 14:55 MST

⟐ Commented June 11, 2026 at 5:16 MST

- To make sure it is no virus I plugged in a usb mouse which switches of the trackpad.

- According to a lot of forums I had to reset the PRAM/NVRAM, like explained here: http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14222?view...

- I removed the battery to see if it was swollen. I also tested the mbp without the battery in the body to make sure it was not the battery who caused the problem.

- I removed the trackpad and cleaned it with alcohol.

Nothing helped! What is the next step? The strange thing is that after a PRAM reset the mouse will act normal for about 30 minutes. Then the problem starts acting up again.

Any ideas?

⟐ Commented June 11, 2026 at 3:04 MST

However, if I disconnect the charger, then press and hold the power button, and while holding it reconnect the charger, then release the power button after a few seconds, the MacBook powers on normally. The problem is that the fan runs at a very high speed, and the green MagSafe LED turns off, although the charger continues to power the MacBook.

I would appreciate it if someone could explain the cause of this issue.

Thank you very much.

Here is the screenshot as requested.

Please note that the MacBook does have a battery installed 😢

⟐ Commented June 07, 2026 at 15:03 MST

. (I dont have a thermal camera or an external power supply) and i dont know where to go from here.]

I've done all of this with no result. The charging port is also brand new. I reset the SMC numerous times thinking I just wasn't doing it right. It just is not working.

⟐ Commented June 02, 2026 at 15:57 MST