Is this likely to be something that removing the keyboard and cleaning might fix or would I need to replace the entire top cover, trackpad and keyboard?

Thanks,

⟐ Commented April 28, 2023 at 16:15 MST

I recently bought a solar panel(Solar Gorilla), but to use it with my MacBook I need to fork out a large sum for the adapters. I have an old magsafe adapter, and several connector tips. Can I somehow connect the magsafe plug to a tip and get power without spending money?

Any help would be welcome!

Hazel

⟐ Answered April 27, 2017 at 3:06 MST

⟐ Answered March 28, 2023 at 14:19 MST

Please advise.

⟐ Commented October 22, 2020 at 8:33 MST

I took the computer apart entirely and cleaned up all the coffee I could using 91% isopropyl alcohol. After reassembly, I tried to power it on, but it was no good. The MagSafe light would not illuminate when any power adapter was connected and the logic smelled a bit like burned plastic, so I determined it was a dead.

I purchased a used, working logic board on eBay a few days ago and transplanted that into a separate MacBook Core Duo that I obtained from my brother using the iFixIt repair guides. His logic board had died of natural causes and none of the internals had ever come into contact with fluids, so they were fully operational. The only internal component I used from the MacBook that had coffee spilled on it was the hard drive, but it was not damaged and was tested in an external enclosure, so it too was operational.

I finished reinstalling all the internal components today connected the MagSafe adapter. The light on the adapter came on this time and the battery indicator lights are blinking and rising, so the logic board is receiving power. Upon power up, the optical drive sounded, but it just kept cycling. I didn't hear the fans power up and all is silent, but the cycling optical drive. So I'm not sure what problem there may be now. Could someone provide some insight given the symptoms I've described? Let me know if you need to know more. Thank you so much, indispensable iFixIt community!

After trying all the suggestions that rdklinc provided, I compiled a log of my results in order to see if this issue could be further diagnosed. Here it is:

When powered on, the MacBook's optical drive and hard drive fire up, but the sleep light comes on immediately and stays steadily lit. No start up sound is heard and the display remains black.

Display

The display I reinstalled is fully functional and there is no faint image on the screen. I have also connected a second fully functional display (see photo below) from another MacBook and still nothing comes up. This may rule out a bad display or inverter cable.

Resetting PMU/SMC

When resetting PMU/SMC, the sleep light would flicker, but no tone was heard after any reconfiguration.

Resetting PRAM

I reset the PRAM, but nothing happened.

Reseat RAM

Initially one RAM card seemed improperly seated, but after removing both RAM cards, switching up the configuration, using different cards, and reinstalling the cards properly, nothing happened.

Reseat Internal Connections

I opened the MacBook again, disconnected all internal cables and reconnected them all, making sure they were properly and securely seated.

Disconnecting/Replacing Optical Drive Cable

I replaced the optical drive cable with another. This initially improved the optical drive's cycling issue upon start up and it operated and sounded normally. After trying to start up with the hard drive disconnected, it went back to cycling. This optical drive is known to be fully functional.

Disconnecting Hard Drive

I disconnected the hard drive cable and attempted to start up the MacBook, but the sleep light did not illuminate and the optical drive started cycling again.

I got an email back from the Beta Macs company and a phone call from the rep I was emailing with about the logic board yesterday. They said they tested the board in a different machine and that it worked fine for them. I don't know if something they're doing is different from what I did, but the rep called me to tell me that my issues may be from improperly installing the temp sensors and not using thermal paste during reassembly. I'm certain I did both properly with the aid of iFixIt guides. What do you guys think, could it, in fact, be something on my end? I mean, I've tried all the things you suggested to get it working. Beta Macs has fully refunded me the cost of the logic board and the shipping. I've been thinking about ordering the only 1.83GHz 4-wall logic board that iFixIt has in stock, despite it being $100 more than the previous board that I purchased. I feel like there is a higher degree of functional certainty from iFixIt. What would you guys suggest? Once again, thanks so much for your help! You guys have been incredible.

⟐ Answered December 30, 2013 at 21:07 MST

Does anyone have an idea of how long or where I could find the cables to replace and which ones will actually fix this?

I've tried doing a display update, which fixed it for about a day.

It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it is very annoying.

⟐ Answered November 06, 2009 at 18:31 MST

⟐ Answered November 17, 2009 at 19:52 MST

If you want to see the machine, below is the video I'm using to sell it on EBay. I've been selling lots of MacBooks for parts lately, and would much prefer to sell this as a working machine! :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTiwLudfF...

⟐ Answered June 24, 2012 at 14:13 MST

This problem developed slowly over time.

I have had the problem diagnosed professionally and tried replacement of battery, magsafe etc etc but these are not the problem.

After carrying out tests, the technician determined that the problem was with a chip on the logic board that controls what the computer does with power; i.e. directing it to the battery etc.

He said that the only way to fix this was to replace the logic board, but that the macbook would continue to work fine connected to mains, which has proved to be true for a number of months.

I am reluctant to spend so much money on repairing a macbook that is now quite old and may need replacement soon anyway. At the same time the macbook is absolutely fine for my uses and I do not need an upgrade yet and as such am reluctant to spend the money until I really need an upgrade.

So, is there a cheaper way to fix this? And if I do replace the logic board can i at least replace it with a later model and get more value for money / a few more years out of my macbook before upgrading?

Thanks!

Colm

If I

2.0GHz (Intel core duo)

⟐ Answered December 30, 2020 at 7:44 MST

my question is is this a damaged LCD,LCD driver or something else ..?

I like to be sure before I order new LCD

thank you for your time (big help) !

peter

⟐ Commented May 09, 2012 at 11:53 MST

So I have a Chime, Grey screen with NO LOGO, or POINTER btw. And constant chime at lower level after. I think its the board please tell me whats going on.

Owner states he thinks he got a virus on it, then the baby started hitting buttons. After a reboot machine never came back up. But i think I ruled that out by getting the same effect by removing the hard drive.

BIOS / Firmware problems? I have 18 years pc repair my first attempt at mac.

⟐ Commented June 30, 2018 at 23:47 MST

⟐ Answered December 03, 2012 at 0:55 MST

⟐ Answered February 09, 2010 at 20:44 MST

I got one in that I need to replace the inverter board on. The part with shipping will run about $55.00. I looked at the 45 step teardown just to get to it and that it's listed as a very difficult repair. I saw online that this could be done for $99.00 at one of the repair services. My question is: do they know a better, faster way to replace this part that what the iFixit procedure is? Do any of you know a faster method?

⟐ Answer deleted April 18, 2013 at 15:59 MST

All the screws arrived in a little bag OK, but all mixed up.

Following the reassembly instructions I've tried to measure each screw (REALLY tedious). Especially for 2.2 type sizes (with tenths of a mm). Shank widths; thread depths; cap widths.

I've been using a printer's loupe and a transparent metric ruler. Also I feel my accuracy is in doubt. I don't want to goof up any threads or round out any Phillips' caps. Is there any method for speeding up tiny screw measurements? A Metal or paper guide?

Thank you,

crocdog

⟐ Commented August 06, 2019 at 15:16 MST

Can you, please, tell me, do I have to buy some special RAM for Apple or any other is suitable too?

thank you

⟐ Answer accepted March 19, 2010 at 6:52 MST

This isn't a recent thing, has been happening forever. Replaced the battery not so long ago and that didn't make a difference. The only mod make to this laptop was upgrading the wireless card to a N card.

2GB Ram

2ghz Intel Core Duo

10.6.2

⟐ Answer accepted August 23, 2017 at 19:05 MST

I've tried to fix my problem on my own by following the guide instructions of ifixit. I am having exactly the problem which is described in the Macbook troubleshooting article (The screen is very dark, but everything else seems to be running. If you get in close with a flashlight, you can usually see the image faintly.)

So I bought a new inverter but this did not solve my problem. In my case the backlight is available for 10 - 30 seconds and after that the screen is black and I am only able to get the backlight back for 1 second.

I want to know if connecting my Macbook with an external display via vga and getting an image on the new display...

what would that mean? A working logic board and thus a faulty LCD?

My Macbook is just 3 years old and it would be a disaster for me, when having a faulty logic board. Unfortunately I have not bought an ACPP.

I hope you guys can give me some advice!

Thank you for your help!

I have ordered a minidvi to vga connector and I will check if I am getting a good picture on the external monitor.

Changing the inverter cable was actually not an option for me because I first went to an Apple Service Provider and he told me that the cable couldn't be the problem. Due to the fact that the backlight is gone without moving the display.

But now I will try a new inverter cable!

Maybe it's worth to tell the whole story how the backlight problem started:

My Macbook had only 1 GB of memory and I bought new 2x2 GB of memory. But one of those new memory was faulty. I checked it with rember. Afterwards I upgraded to Snow Leopard and while installing the new OS the backlight was gone. But it was possible to get the backlight back by closing and folding up the display. I decided to switch back to the old memory and downgraded to Leopard but this did not solve my problem.

Yesterday I observed that when using the brightness keys( F1 & F2) I can create for one second backlight. I have to switch down the brightness to zero and then by pressing F2 I can get the backlight back. I repeated this key combination in order to maintain the backlight but then I get a flickering backlight, which only lasts for 3 - 4 seconds before getting a screen with no backlight.

I will post here again when I tried the external monitor/ inverter cable!

So the VGA connector arrived and I am getting a good picture on the external monitor!

Today I observed that the backlight of my Macbook was able to last for more than 30 minutes! But afterwards same problem again.

NO LUCK with the new inverter cable :(

First it seemed to be fixed, since the backlight was available during moving the display which was not possible before. But the backlight was gone after a couple of minutes and did not come back. I also changed the inverter board again but no effect... the inverter board which I ordered for replacing my old inverter was even "worse". Because my old inverter was able to produce backlight for a couple of minutes and the new inverter only few seconds...

⟐ Commented August 20, 2017 at 16:26 MST

⟐ Answer accepted November 13, 2013 at 4:36 MST

⟐ Answer accepted December 08, 2013 at 4:37 MST