⟐ Commented October 13, 2021 at 12:56 MST

I’ve tried installing through internet Ethernet cable, enter Apple ID/ password, confirm through iPhone then get a ‘try again screen.’

I’m new to Apple products and made a bootable USB with El Capitan installed. I tried downloading it but was met with ‘drive needs 15.98 GB of space to install.’ I tried erasing the hard disk but encounter errors. 

Should I just get an SSD and reinstall an OS?

I purchased a used Macbook Core 2 Duo machine to play around with. My battery icon on the home screen shows an ‘X’ through it, and in System Profiler shows ‘No Battery Installed’ even when battery is in the computer.

I have done a few SMC resets to no avail, and have reset the computer with the battery out, then re-inserted the battery after it was turned on, and the computer still will not recognize the battery. Placing slight pressure on the charging pins with a screwdriver did not help either.

The MagSafe adapter is brand new and verified working. The MagSafe input is clean and working well, with no bent pins. The battery is OEM, brand new, and verified working. The computer works so long as it is connected to the MagSafe adapter, but will immediately turn off once the adapter is disconnected.

While I was inserting the battery (with the computer on) I noticed that the MagSafe adapter light (and the battery charge indicator) would briefly flash amber and green respectively if I applied pressure to the battery and held it at a certain angle. This leads me to believe that the likely problem is the connector (that hooks in to the logic board) itself. I am wondering if anyone has attempted this repair or if there are available guides on it; I have looked all over iFixit and have not seen anything that specifically addresses (what I believe to be) a loose fit of the charging components.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Edited by author September 29, 2020 at 9:46 MST

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-...

ftp://ftp.wacom-europe.com/pub/Mac/cons5...

That ftp wacom is for the digitizer I'm trying to find a touchscreen drivers for a hp TX1000 digitizer dmg file

⟐ Edited by author September 18, 2020 at 8:37 MST

I got a MacBook of 2007, but it doesn't boot, the screen stays black, the sleep light stays white (no blinking) and there is no chime. I can here the hard drive working.

USB port are working. I can't test it with an external monitor but I think it won't work.

I removed the RAM but I didn't get the beep that would tell me a problem with it. Reset of PRAM and SMC didn't change anything, neither testing with one empty slot.

There is a lot of similar problems but none of the solution worked.

As anyone an idea of the nature of the problem ? And a solution to fixed it ?

Thanks.

⟐ Commented September 18, 2020 at 7:21 MST

A few notes to mention:

-there’s no battery, hard drive or RAM

-the computer does absolutely nothing when I used a charged battery from my working A1181 or when plugged into the wall, although the charger does show a green light

-the charger does not charge that working battery when both are in the laptop

-there was some post-it with some drawing of a stickman in the hard drive slot out of all things, with the screws taped behind it

Where should I start troubleshooting?

⟐ Commented September 18, 2020 at 7:09 MST

I have a macbook unibody late 2007. The battery died and I’ve opened it to check all Li-Po cells. All of them had very low voltage (max 1V). I used a chrger to charge them up to 3.7V and they’ve hold the charge for 1 month.

Now, I have to connect everything back but I am afraid of connecting the wires wrongly.

I have 3 blocks of cells connected in series and each block is made of 2 cells connected in parallel.

Now, regarding wiring, I don’t know which wires go to the termistor, to BMS and the power rails (I believe these are those wide tracks/flat cable).

Can you, please, help me with this ?

Thanks in advance.

Best regards,

Pedro

⟐ Commented September 01, 2020 at 2:25 MST

Anyone have an idea on what could be the problem/fix? Do I have to replace the logic board? (Please don’t reply with getting a newer machine, this is just an extra device that I would like to fix and keep).

If I have to do a logic board replacement would I be able to fit a 2007 MacBook logic board (would the connections be the same and would it physically fit - I looked at pictures and it looks like it would but I’m not 100% sure)?

Thanks in advance

⟐ Commented May 31, 2020 at 18:29 MST

On a Macbook 4,1 (A1181) the keyboard, trackpad and power button are not functioning.

I manage to power on the computer from the motherboard and it is functioning fine, using an external usb keyboard and mouse. The main concern is the power button.

Will a silver ribbon replacement solve the above issues, does it needs a complete top case replacement?

Just a side note, not sure if it matters, but the laptop is working only from the power source since the battery is completely dead.

Thank you

⟐ Edited by author May 02, 2020 at 1:52 MST

⟐ Commented July 16, 2019 at 16:37 MST

Lately my friend asked me if i could repair his old macbook, for his 4 years old kid in order to watch dvd or youtube cartoon stuff. (otherwise he needs to take his macbook pro 2017 that he uses for video editing work ….)

But he lost the DVD ( so i can’t check AHT by only push D instead) display got very wierd color (like old effect 80s) and also when i bend the monitor over 90 degrees, it appear all black like losing contact..

i read from some people’s experience, it could be the inventer cable, but im not sure if i should also replace inventer itself… also im not sure how to solve this wierd color issue

( like if it might be LCD cable problem?)i had already reset the pram and display setting but it doesn’t change anything.

by the way while i connect to the second monitor, there is no problem at all.

(which means its not the dead graphic card i suppose?)

i would like to know which part i should purchase if anyone could help me..

Thanks a lot!

Though just about now, I found out that there may be some problems with a main ribbon cable that connects a keyboard and touchpad to a motherboard, because when I disconnect it from the Logic board the screen comes back to normal and the machine works just fine. What do I do in this case ?

I guess now I know that it’s a hardware issue and not a software one, cause I restored the system like 5 times and no results. So, now i’ve got this problem, and need some help to get rid of it.

Thanks in advance

I acquired an early 2009 Macbook a1181 with a backlight issue; the backlight will flick on at boot and then die. The backlight has also momentarily turned on whilst adjusting the brightness. First, I tried to replace the display inverter, which had little effect. However, I did manage to get the backlight on for a couple of minutes with a little fiddling, holding down the inverter cable may have helped? I've never managed to get the backlight on for any length of time since.

Suspecting the inverter cable, I opened up the Macbook again to take a look. I put it back together again, and it wouldn't boot at all. I eventually found the cause to be a dead keyboard, trackpad and power button, as the laptop turns on when the contacts on the motherboard are shorted. There is no viable damage to the keyboard ribbon, and the socket on the motherboard seems fine too (I've looked closely with a magnifying glass).

What I would really like to know is the best way to remedy both of these problems as inexpensively as possible. Would it be a good idea to purchase a new inverter cable and keyboard cable or should I buy a 'parts' machine on eBay?

Please let me know your thoughts and what you think is causing both of these problems.

Many thanks!

⟐ Reopened May 29, 2018 at 13:33 MST

⟐ Commented March 23, 2018 at 17:37 MST

I have this model as a secondary Mac laptop. It runs Mac OS X 10.11.6 reasonably well when I don't limit CPU power. Has received SSD (OWC Mercury) and RAM (Kingston) upgrades, as well as a new battery.

However, even with rather low CPU usage (15%), the fan is blowing full speed, all the time. Cleaned radiator? Check. Thermal paste? Check. Reset SMC and PRAM? Check.

CPU temperature is hovering around 65 degrees, MCP temperature is currently at 72degrees, but the CPU can be 10 full degrees cooler than the MCP. Even at full fan speed / low CPU usage, MCP temperature doesn't decrease very fast. There's no apparent relationship between CPU temperature and fan speed.

Even if it dramatically slows down the whole machine, I set Macs Fan Control to limit fan speed at 3800rpm as the noise at full speed is just unbearable, and just let it back on when I need more power. Interestingly, the fan speed issue also shows up under Mac OS X 10.6.8 (dual boot from the same SSD), so pretty sure it's not a software problem.

Some unanswered questions:

• Why is the MCP hotter than the CPU most of the time?
• On one forum, I read the MCP sensor can become faulty. But where can I find the schematic for this MacBook5,2 board? I was able to find ones for MacBookPro8,1, but nothing for MacBooks.
• As I last resort, I though about gutting out this laptop and making a series of small holes in the bottom case to help with cooling. I'm afraid this would in fact allow the computer to suck in even more dust. Is it a reliable solution on this model?
• And where would I need to drill to allow for maximum cool air intake without lettings the other components overheat or for the laptop to be even more vulnerable to liquid intake?