SAMSUNG 950 PRO M.2 512GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V5P512BW

It has the most incredible specs and is still affordable. This would be an awesome upgrade for my MBA. But might/will it be compatible?

⟐ Commented May 22, 2020 at 10:17 MST

So I did a little experiment: I took the new battery out and put my old battery in and the noise and the rattling disappeared.

So I'm pretty certain that it's the new battery that's causing the noise/rattle.

Any suggestions on what I should do? I actually tried putting a foam material between the battery and the trackpad to "push" the trackpad upwards, and the noise actually went away but it created another problem: the click function of the trackpad disappeared. I'm not sure how to solve both problems simultaneously.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

⟐ Answer accepted March 16, 2020 at 9:10 MST

I have a problem with my backlight of my macbook air, when it suddenly stopped working. I sent to apple for diagnostic, which initially they assume it should be whether the logic board or the display, and after 4 days they said that it's the display and the cost to replace it would be around £450.

I did not sent for repair, but instead I sent it to iSmash (a repair shop in the UK) for diagnostic, and after running the diagnotic for a week, they said it is not the LCD that is broken, but the 'backlight ic' on the motherboard?

So I am wondering why is it quoted differently between these two premises and is 'backlight ic' an integrated part of the 'display'?

⟐ Answered May 16, 2022 at 19:29 MST

p.s. Separate frustration... I live overseas and called Apple Care the moment the first line appeared early 2014. They assured me that when I returned to the US, they would fix it free of charge, as I was within the 1 year warranty. I told them my travel dates were just beyond the year mark but they said the call had been logged and the "call date" would be honored at time of service. However, when I visited the Genius Bar they refused, saying the warranty was a few weeks overdue and I would need to pay upwards of $300 to have the screen fixed. Just what I was afraid of! My earlier precautions and subsequent explanations did no good with their customer service. So frustrating! Apple is usually so good about these things. It's a BRAND NEW expensive laptop, in perfect working condition with no other issues. The guy took my machine apart and confirmed nothing was wrong internally. I've read other forums where this is a common issue with the MacBook Airs... I tried every angle with Apple so now trying here to see if anyone has had some other creative solve.

Thanks for listening :)

⟐ Commented April 01, 2018 at 8:34 MST

⟐ Answer edited November 27, 2021 at 5:29 MST

⟐ Commented November 21, 2021 at 4:59 MST

⟐ Comment deleted September 26, 2019 at 4:47 MST

BATTERY HEALTH - I downloaded Coconut Battery to check my battery health. Full charge capacity was still at around 95% and i’m only at around 600 cycle count. Temp is just at 30 degrees celsius, so its not overheating. Battery status is good.

SMC RESET - I did a proper SMC reset. Fully charged it, properly shut it down and did SMC reset at start-up. It would still turn off after every couple of minutes but i continued to use it until it got completely discharged. Then fully charged it again. I followed a forum that suggested this, to complete power cycles. I've completed one power cycle, but the issue still persists and now it just shuts down at the log-in page so i can’t even discharge completely.

PRAM RESET - After SMC reset didn’t work, I tried PRAM reset. After i did this, it started playing the start-up chime again [which stopped happening when i was doing the SMC resets and the random on and off] and it worked fine for about 45 mins then it shut down again.

DISK UTILITY - Did scan, first aid repair, nothing wrong found.

SAFE MODE - Booted in safe and it still shut down after a few minutes.

APPLE HARDWARE TEST - Says no trouble found

I don’t know what else to do. I’m in the middle of writing my thesis so i desperately need my laptop. Id appreciate any help. Also wondering if I should just factory reset my Mac if nothing works? Thanks

UPDATE

I was losing hope today because its been 3 days, so i decided i was gonna try to just factory reset my system. Went to Mac Utilities to erase my disk. It just finished erasing my drive and then it suddenly turned off. When i turned it back on, it goes straight to internet recovery (so i’m assuming the disk erase worked) because the disk is now wiped and there’s no OS to boot from. Now even at internet recovery, usually around the part where i choose a network, IT’S STILL TURNING OFF.

⟐ Commented June 12, 2021 at 23:45 MST

I have a MacBook Air 2013, and now it won't start up correctly, I have to push and hold the power button for at least 5 seconds, if I just push quickly it starts, it then goes to standby mode, then it shuts down completely.

Found a component that wasn't working so now at least it won't shutdown, but still a bit slowish and the power button isn't working to well, I installed a new OS onto the system but nothing changed, tried to change the power and other component but nothing.

Any clues are most welcome thanks a lot!

Well, I have two MacBook Air's (both are 2013 models), I used one as the parts to fix the other. I switched, the batteries, the I/O board, and yesterday even the screen.

I also tried reinstalling the system from scratch nothing! And I even tried the Apple hardware test, and I got "No issue found" reference code ADP000

Yesterday I changed the entire display and uppercase assemblies, and nothing!

When I gave it to a friend a month ago he found a certain chip "exploded" and changed it but since then nothing changed.

Thank you so much again :)

⟐ Commented April 25, 2021 at 3:38 MST

Not much got everywhere, but some of it appears to have gotten stuck underneath at least 3 keys; mainly the "T" & "Y" keys, as well as the screen-brightness reduction key in the top left of the keyboard. The keys have since become stuck & it's become a bit harder than usual to push them down. I know it's possible to remove the keys on older models for cleaning, but I'm unsure how to go through with it/if there's a different process for the new 13" Air. Any help would be highly appreciated <3

⟐ Commented November 01, 2025 at 19:44 MST

I am curious if it is possible to swap a 2013 Macbook Air logic board with a MBA 2017 logic board.

I saw some post at (Upgrade MacBook Air A1466 i5 2013 logic board with a newer one 2015) claimed that he successfully installed a 2015 logic board on a 2013 MBA body. Since the logic board for MBA 2015 is similarly identical with the MBA 2017, wouldn’t it fit for 2013?

The reason being is I am not looking forward to trade-in my MBA with the latest one, I just want to upgrade the components only.

Requesting for experts out there to assist me in this one.

Thank you

• My Macbook Air is:
• "Core i5" 1.3 13" (Mid-2013) MD760LL/A

⟐ Commented November 07, 2022 at 19:18 MST

By the way, when it is on, I can restart normally but after shutting it down, it will not turn on until I unplug the battery! When I click on the battery icon, it shows service recommended despite the fact that I can work on my device for over 5 hours before it goes dead.

Please help me

⟐ Answered January 13, 2026 at 0:40 MST

Background:

I just got my new Macbook Air around 4 months ago. So I'm pretty sad about my carelessness.

I spilled around 6 ounces of filtered water on my laptop right on the keyboard and hinge while it was running (not plugged in). Basically as soon as the water hit the laptop, it turned off.

I put it in rice and after 48 hours I turned it on and it works perfectly fine from what I can tell except the battery. The battery reads "Repair now" and the laptop doesn't work when not plugged in.

I brought it in to the Apple store with little hope that they would fix it. When they ran their MRI diagnostic test on it, the battery was the only part that returned a negative result. And one sensor that the Apple employee said was related to the battery.

When they went to replace the battery they said there was liquid residue on the logic board, the battery, and the top case and that I would have to replace them all for 750+ dollars.

I asked him if they could just replace the battery since it seemed like that was the only actually damaged part. He said that in liquid damage cases they replace everything in case the other parts are damaged and cause the battery to short.

I asked him what liquid residue looks like. He said corrosion. The reason I asked was because I was curious if for my laptop it was actually being corroded or if there were just mineral deposits left over after the water dried.

I also asked him if he cleaned out the water that was left in the body if any and he said yes, and they also cleaned out any rice they found in it.

Question:

I have several questions but my main one is:

I want to crack open the back and see the damage for myself. I feel like I might be able to just replace the battery and clean the rest with isopropyl alcohol. But I don't have time right now (exam season) but I will in about a week.

If I leave it as is, will it continue to erode? (The Apple guy said that they cleaned out the rest of the water, so I'm just wondering if the mineral deposits or existing corrosion will continue damaging the machine).

My other questions are:

• Since it immediately turned off when the water hit it, is it likely that only the battery is damaged?
• Will I be able to tell if it's just mineral deposits or actual corrosion? Or will it for sure just be corrosion?
• If I replace the battery only, will that be fine? Or is what the Apple employee said true--that I have to replace everything in case they cause the battery to short?

Next Steps:

• Invest in a water bottle designed for the clumsy (one that requires you to suck out the water).
• Order the right screwdriver to open my mba up.
• Check out the damage. Google a bunch / search ifixit to help diagnose what corrosion looks like.
• Clean corrosion with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry
• Put all the parts back into the laptop.
• Run computer to see if it works as it did before I cleaned it.
• Order battery and replace the battery.

Thanks a bunch!

Grace

⟐ Commented May 03, 2019 at 8:36 MST

If it works, i'd like to order an 802.11ac card!

Thank you!

⟐ Answer deleted September 21, 2014 at 23:55 MST

I have a problem with my macbook air 6,2.

The first issue was the computer did't turned on.

The SMC reset and regular things did't helped.

I took down the bottom case, and plugged out the battery cable. After this when I plugged in the charger, the computer is turned on immediately.

I took back the case, and restarted the computer, the computer was dead as before.

I ran a hardware diagnostic test and got the PPT001 (battery), PFM001 (SMC) and NDC001 (webcam - this one is weird because I can use the camera).

So right now I can turn on the computer without the bottom case, but the fans are running high etc.

The power adapter led is not lighting, and when I push the shift + ctrl + alt the computer is turned off immediately.

Anyone have an idea what can I do with this SMC issue?

⟐ Commented May 29, 2020 at 0:14 MST

Whenever I press the power button, the fan spins up momentarily, but clicks to a halt less than a second later as if there is insufficient power to the fan. This behavior is observed in all circumstances: battery power alone, battery + charger, and charger alone disconnected from battery. Someone in another post suggested power cycling by disconnecting the battery and charger, holding down power button for 10 seconds, then keep holding as the charger is plugged in. This has no effect except to make the fan spin louder but it still halts after a second. Under all of the above circumstances, the fan tries again every five seconds until the power source (battery, charger, or both) is disconnected. The same behavior is observed when the logic board power pads are shorted with the keyboard disconnected.

If it is connected to the MagSafe charger, the status LED lights up correctly. When I try to reset the SMC, the LED cycles to green then amber, as expected.

I have disassembled the Mac and the logic board has no obvious signs of corrosion or blown components. The moisture indicators are not tripped and there is not even any significant amount of dust, with none in the fan at all.

I have tried resetting the SMC and PRAM/NVRAM numerous times, but there is no obvious reaction from either: the SMC reset cycles the charger LED as mentioned earlier, and resetting the PRAM/NVRAM has no effect. In neither case does the startup chime sound or the screen (including backlight) turn on.

Needless to say, the Apple Store says it's a broken logic board. I think that a power surge or software update might have been to blame, but I am not sure. I appreciate any insight you may be able to offer.

⟐ Commented January 23, 2018 at 8:17 MST

Laptop wouldn’t turn back on without adaptor when it was back on the new battery was not longer recognized. I did PRAM reset, SMC reset, First Aid through utilities, uninstalling and reinstalling battery. Coconut doesn’t recognize the new battery. When I put in my old battery, the laptop recognizes it and runs fine.

Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions/tips/solutions? Thank you for your time and help.

Edit:

Here is a screenshot of coconutBattery with the iFixit replacement battery installed after it stopped working. Like I said earlier, Coconut nor my laptop is reading/connecting to the battery.

And here is a screenshot of the original battery readout.

I don’t have a screenshot of coconutBattery’s readout of the battery when it was working, unfortunately. Hope this is helpful and thanks for your time and help.

⟐ Commented July 04, 2022 at 4:09 MST

Does anyone know how to get this to stop permanently myself?! I have three midterms next week and absolutely need my laptop for them, I can't be sending it away to be repaired right now!!!

Also, the weird thing is, that my trackpad and keyboard work fine on the login screen, I am able to enter my password and everything but as soon as I login it freezes up and keeps searching bluetooth for an external keyboard.

Please help!!!

⟐ Comment deleted July 18, 2021 at 7:27 MST

The MacBook Air will power on *only* when no battery is connected, and then it does not power on when the power button is pressed. Instead it powers on when a power supply is connected - when doing this with the bottom case removed the fan starts for a few seconds, stops, starts again for a few seconds, stops, and then on the third attempt the MacBook starts up. Without a battery connected its behaviour is then otherwise normal - everything works.

When a battery is then connected nothing works - the MacBook will not start. Connecting the power supply - enough to make it start when there is no battery attached - then does nothing, and pressing the power button also makes no change. However pressing the power button momentarily makes the charger LED switch from orange to green. It then switches back, and the machine does not boot.

I have reset both SMC and NVRAM multiple times, and tried all of this with two different batteries - and it is the same all the time.

Apple Hardware Test gives the error PPT004 “battery requires service”, but the battery is new.

I hence presume this is a problem with the SMC and there is no option other than to take it for a professional repair?

Any assistance here would be most welcome.

UPDATE 1 - in light of Dan’s comments below, here is the screenshot from Coconut Battery

UPDATE 2 - @danj OK, so I have tested and re-tested this, and it is *not* a problem with a faulty battery. I ordered a second hand Apple battery and this exhibits *exactly* the same issues as the two other batteries I have tried, and with the Apple battery as well calibration makes no difference.

This problem is either connected to the SMC or the charging circuits of this MacBook Air.

The closest equivalent problem I have found is this Strange Power Supply Behaviour faced by @karthikrr and diagnosed with @arbaman. I have also tried following this Does not power on after SMC reset, will on SMC bypass.. but that SMC bypass route does not work either.

So we need to look elsewhere to solve this.

First, the I/O button does respond to pressing it - when pressing it when the MagSafe is connected, the LED on the MagSafe switches from orange to green for a few seconds, then back to orange. Also if you do get the computer to boot (by disconnecting the battery and starting it by plugging in the MagSafe) and then when it is running you press the I/O button, the machine goes off *immediately* - it does not give you the Restart / Shut Down menu as it should. So there is something odd there.

The question then is what I could try next? Apple Hardware Test gives the error PPT004 saying the battery is suspect, but we now know that is not (at least not the battery itself) the case. Is there some way I can diagnose whether the SMC or the charging circuitry is faulty?

So - a couple of months on - I managed to source a new logicboard for the MacBook, installed it, and everything works perfectly. The answer to @danj is clear - the fault is with the logicboard. I have now sent it off for repair, and we will see what the company says - I will post any conclusions here too.

An inspection of the logicboard shows what looks to be light corrosion as shown on the pictures here:

⟐ Commented May 27, 2021 at 14:30 MST

- Chris

⟐ Commented December 05, 2013 at 11:02 MST