I’m troubleshooting a MacBook Air A1932 (2018, EMC 3184) that suffered water damage. I’ve done extensive testing and want to get some expert opinions before proceeding with repairs.

Behaviour:

1. Internal display works on cold boot, but after closing the lid and reopening:
   • Keyboard lights come on, sound works
   • Screen remains completely black
   • Flashlight test shows nothing on display
2. External display tests:
   • Using a USB-C hub to pass power + HDMI → external video does NOT work
   • Removing power from the hub → HDMI video works normally (without sound passing)
   • After closing the lid, the external display continues to work while the internal display never comes back

Fixes:

• From the water damage and inspection to the original components, I already replaced the audio board (due to signs of corrosion), which fixed the not-booting problem resulting from the spill.
• Now, with these "new" problems, I'm thinking of buying a replacement A1932 logic board (820-01521) with a matching Touch ID/power button.

Am I correct in thinking this is the way forward, or are there any other tests I can do? Maybe other parts that I should replace first?

Thanks

⟐ Commented March 31, 2026 at 13:41 MST

⟐ Answer accepted March 31, 2026 at 6:32 MST

Apple refuses to repair this MacBook so it will power on even though AppleCare still covers it.*

Apple says they will replace this MacBook Air, but Apple says to replace it I must send them the MacBook Air intact, with the SSD intact. This would be great except the SSD hasn't been erased, the SSD isn't encryped, and the SSD contains very valuable information. (All the information has been backed up to an encrypted external SSD.)

The problem is I am not comfortable returning the computer to Apple without erasing the SSD because it contains all sorts of valuable information, including passwords to important financial accounts and various personal identifiers for me and for others. Because the computer won't power on, I don't know a way to erase the SSD.

The Apple phone advisors I spoke with say that I have spoken to send the computer back with an intact SSD. I have offered to remove the SSD myself and pay Apple for the SSD and/or to send the smashed pieces of the SSD with the Macbook when I return the MacBook. The Apple Advisors have said that Apple won't make an exception to receiving the Macbook intact with SSD, saying this Apple policy.

One of the Apple phone advisors stated I should see if the Apple Store would erase the SSD even though I told the Advisor the "geniuses" at the Apple Store have already said they can't erase the disk because the machine is "vintage" (more than 5 years old) and Apple doesn't sevice "vintage" machines. This Apple phone advisor also refused to send any of this advice in writing via text or email. This advisor also would not provide information on how to escalate my complaint.

Bottomline:

I want to erase the erase the SSD on this MacBook Air that won't power up so I can feel comfortable in returning it to Apple to get a replacement computer. Is there a way I can erase the MacBook's SSD?

Thanks in advance.

*I tried to get the power issues diagnosed and repaired in 2023 when they first appeared. The "geniuses" at the Apple Store said power issues weren't covered under AppleCare and that it would cost a minimum of $450 to dagnose and fix the problem. Oddly,in March of 2026 the "geniuses" at the same Apple Store said the problem was covered by AppleCare but they couldn't work on the MacBook because it was "vintage" (more than 5 years old).

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 18:32 MST

Issue 1: When the laptop is on, closing the lid does nothing. The screen stays on, the system doesn't go to sleep, sound still plays.

Issue 2: I believe is related to issue 1 because they appeared at the same time. If I restart or turn on the laptop from an off state, the display is blank. It's not off, as the backlight is still on, caps lock and force trackpad are working. Plugging an external monitor does nothing, so does unplugging it. Here's where it gets weird. If I blindly input my password and press enter, nothing happens. But if plug in my monitor after that point, the system is already logged in and on the desktop.

Important note, the laptop fell down and the display got cracked 6 months ago, so I got it replaced at a non official repair shop. Upon repair, everything was working as normal, until this problem appeared a couple of weeks ago.

I feel like I tried everything. I did a complete system reinstall. I assumed it was a faulty lid sensor, so I ordered a new one on aliexpress and replaced it myself, ran the repair assistant. I know for a fact the lid sensor is working fine, as when I use this lid sensor angle tool, the angle displayed is correct.

So is it hardware or software? Did I get a faulty replacement display, or did something else break during the fall or the repair? I'm at a loss. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 17:54 MST

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 8:04 MST

Whenever I do anything on it (like open a file) the temp immediately jumps up to 60-70 degrees Celsius.

Whenever I start a graphically-intensive process (like open a PDF with images, launch a browser, open multiple images, etc) the temp quickly jumps to 80-90 Celsius.

In both cases, it needs the fans running at 8000 rpm for like 10 seconds to cool back down.

I'm using Macs Fan Control to monitor the temperature, and I set my own automatic rules for the fans to kick in earlier.

Even so, the computer often goes into kernel panic due to overheating and restarts (can't use it for more than 1 hours without this happening). I can provide the reports if you think it'd help, the only common thing between multiple reports I've noticed is that the process responsible is usually kernel_task, though I'm not sure that adds anything.

Here's what I tried so far:

• Cleaning the insides of the laptop, fans, etc, it's spotless in there.
• Replacing the thermal paste.
• Resetting device, and reinstalling macOS
• Resetting the SMC

Replacing the thermal paste had an impact, it lowered the idle temperature from 40-50 to 30-45. But I still get the kernel panics.

Considering all the symptoms, What would you think is the problem? I can't notice any damage or problems around the CPU/GPU, and since the laptop functions, always gets past POST, etc, I'm not sure if it's a motherboard issue.

I was thinking the fan might be the problem, but that too looks fine on visual inspection.

My last recourse was to change the battery - I was thinking there might be a problem with its board, sending too much power to the GPU? Is that possible, should I consider it?

PS: Nothing comes up while doing Apple's diagnostics. Problem persists in safe mode, with no peripherals connected.

⟐ Commented March 25, 2026 at 2:19 MST

On normal power on it chimes and flashes the power logo for a split second then goes black. When plugged into a dock I get video and it boots. But the Keyboard and mouse also are not working. Only showing the external display in MacOS

When I hold the power button for recovery options I get full display, the keyboard and mouse still don't work but the screen is fine... As soon as I click on options using an external mouse the screen goes blank but again works on external fine.

Im wondering if there is a shared power bus or something that could be shorted. I dont see signs of liquid damage inside the machine but anything is possible...

Anyone got any ideas?

⟐ Answer edited March 24, 2026 at 15:46 MST

P.S. The teardowns I've seen only show the parts connected to motherboard, but don't attempt to dismantle the screen.

⟐ Commented March 23, 2026 at 0:57 MST

⟐ Commented March 20, 2026 at 0:45 MST

The new logic board arrived and I have installed it in the mac. Everything ok until this point.

Where I started to have problems ....

As the built-in display is cracked I can't do anything, but I knew that from the start. So, I connected the macbook air to the external display and the problems started to happend here.

I set up the macbook the following way:

- I connected the external power adapter, connected an external keyboard and mouse and connected the external monitor.

1 - I can close the lid plug/un-plug the monitor, do a million of different combinations, but it didn't wotk work. The clamshell mode is never activated.

2 - I tried several shortcuts to extend the monitor and nothing.

3 - I shut down the mac, closed the lid, removed the power and put it back.

The mac started automatically and I have image on the external monitor, but it's extended instead of mirrored, so when I press "D", it won't show the menu.

Opening the lid reveals the LCD black. It's, basically, off. Removing the cable of the external monitor does nothing, the built-in display continues off until I reboot again.

I don't mind this, since it will be a headless computer.

Question: how can I force the external display to be the main one, so I can configure the computer?

The previous owner formatted the ssd , so I get "?"and cannot go any further regarding booting the system.

Kins regards,

Pedro

⟐ Commented March 16, 2026 at 6:30 MST

Doing a repair, wanting to make sure know where is the T2 chip...

Image is below this message

⟐ Answer edited March 24, 2026 at 7:48 MST

⟐ Commented March 15, 2026 at 6:50 MST

is it possible to fix this with just a new flex cable or is it damage to the screen itself? it seems to have happened overnight. definitely didn't drop it. no visible damage to screen. (already ruled out software issues. and apple diagnostics didn't recognize any issues)

⟐ Commented March 13, 2026 at 18:16 MST

Also another question is would tightening the screws void warranty if I'm in the US?

⟐ Answer edited March 12, 2026 at 4:31 MST

When I attach a second hand screen (genuine Apple) it gives me the option to finish the repair and it calibrates accordingly.

When I try a second hand Touch ID (genuine Apple) it fails to recognise it as being a genuine part.

My questions are - is it possible to calibrate a Touch ID now through Apple's program? And if so, would I need to buy a new button through the Self-Service Repair from Apple?

⟐ Answer accepted March 10, 2026 at 10:51 MST

The issue appeared about a month after I started using the device. The clicks are completely random:

• when opening the lid,
• when typing on my lap,
• or even just turning the MacBook over while it’s open.

They get louder and more frequent when the MacBook heats up.

I use the laptop very carefully — no drops, no hits, always handled with care.

I took it to a service center — they said it’s a design feature and refused to fix it. I insisted they remove the bottom cover and check: everything looked intact. After reassembly, the issue seemed gone, but within a week the sounds came back.

It feels like the noise is coming from the bottom cover.

Has anyone else experienced this? Did you manage to fix it?

This is done by U-shaped latches, of which there are four inside. The ones closest to the hinges click louder. If you press these areas with your fingers, you'll hear a creaking sound instead of a click. The battery and everything else inside are intact.

After replacing the lid, these latches somehow manage to fall off their "perfect" fit, but I have no idea how and don't know what to do. I currently don't have the means to quickly arrange a visa to nearby Poland to "torment" the Apple Store employees. Unfortunately, there are no official Apple Stores or authorized service centers in my country (there's only one "semi-authorized" one, but that's where I brought my laptop the first time).

The only thing I haven't tried yet is wrapping the screws that hold the "U-shaped" clips in Kapton.

Loosening the screws that hold the bottom cover will stop the clicking, but then the bottom cover will bend and try to come off the clips, which is obvious. I've tried various methods of tightening the screws "correctly," but so far, nothing has worked. I ordered some "original" ones specifically for this color, but I haven't tested them yet.

I also can't rule out the possibility that these are just those "tolerances," and that I just happened to have a lucky copy. I've touched display samples in this case, and they're similar—some click, some don't. Granted, the clicks aren't quite as audible, but they're still there.

⟐ Edited March 09, 2026 at 17:01 MST

I bought a CHEAP 2012 MBA for $10 in perfect cosmetic condition.

I was told by the seller it had no SSD as they wanted to keep it because of sensitive files or whatever & that the Fan would either not spin or spin at full speed and suddenly self shutdown. I opened up the unit and immediately noticed a swollen battery, So I threw that away and booted it with no battery and got the 3 beeps of RAM nightmare. I then gave it a fresh thermal paste, then put in a working battery which is charging normally and CoconutBattery is reporting all is OK, I then reset the PRAM & SMC, and put my tester 64 GB SSD for this model as it is all I have available with the 2012 pin layout and everything is really working fine, it has a clean install of Catalina which I updated to 10.1.5.8 on this machine, all good. Then I tried to run apple diagnostics to see if there was any hidden issue, and after I entered the WiFi PW it went to a black screen with Apple Diagnostics: Error: 0x8000000000000003, / Cannot load efi/drivers/testsupport.efi / Status: 0x00000003.

I did a search on this and it came up with you may have a dying SSD...... @danj Has this SSD or motherboard itself got some issue that I cannot detect? It seems to be working fine other that the AHT error..... I have not seen this before,.

Out of curiosity I ran the diagnostics on another 2012 MBA without any problem, so I cannot see it being some sort of server issue.

⟐ Commented March 09, 2026 at 16:31 MST

I have a MacBook Air 13 '' Model A1466 EMC2925

It does not turn on, and when charging, the MagSafe stays at orange. I have left it over a day now, and nothing.

I suspect the issue is the battery, but I'm not totally sure.

Is there a way to prove it?

Best,

⟐ Commented March 08, 2026 at 7:36 MST

⟐ Answer edited March 02, 2026 at 17:38 MST

When I try to continue the installation, no disk appears, even though this laptop has an SSD, but it doesn't appear in the list of utilities. This SSD was installed in 2022 and did not come standard on this laptop. I have already selected the option to show all devices.

So I'm stuck at the same point as this guy: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/251...

Can someone help me, please?

⟐ Answer accepted March 01, 2026 at 11:16 MST