⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 11:16 MST

This MacBook originally belonged to my uncle. He upgraded some components, then years later gave it to my grandmother. It stayed unused for about 4–5 years. I turned it on once after that and it worked perfectly, but I stopped using it because it had an admin password that no one knew. I was younger at the time and didn’t know what to do.

Now, about 6–7 years later, I tried turning it on again. After charging it for a long time (the MagSafe light stays green), it powers on but then shuts off abruptly during startup. After it turns off, I have to wait several minutes before it responds to the power button again.

Here’s what’s happening precisely:

Power / Boot Issue

• The Mac turns on normally, shows the Apple logo and the throbber.
• It shuts down before completing the boot process.
• The shutdown is abrupt, like the power is suddenly cut.
• After it turns off, it doesn’t respond to the power button right away — I have to wait a few minutes before it will turn on again.

Fan / Internal Noise

• I hear clicking or buzzing sounds that seem to come from the fan or possibly the hard drive area.
• The fan appears to spin.

Magsafe

• The green light takes about 5–8 seconds to turn on after connecting.
• Once it turned orange for 4 seconds, then switched back to green. Probably is poor contact.
• The MagSafe port has been cleaned, but the behavior remains the same.

Battery

• With the battery disconnected, the Mac does not power on using only the MagSafe adapter.

Other Details

• No burning smell or unusual odor (just a normal old plastic smell near the keyboard/screen area).
• The screen lights up normally during the partial startup.
• Startup chime is present.
• The Mac is always cold and has never overheated.
• Internal components do not show signs of corrosion, moisture, or staining.

I’m especially worried because the hard drive contains important family memories that I would really like to recover. I know the hard drive could be accessed with an adapter using another computer, but I’m 15, in Brasil (Things here are expensive), so I was hoping to repair this Mac myself and change to linux so I could also use it for studying.

I would really appreciate any help or advice.

---

So, could the MagSafe be solely to blame for all this? A few weeks ago I discovered that MagSafe is the 40W version, not the 60W one, and it isn't an Apple original. My grandmother bought it thinking the Macbook was a Macbook Air.

⟐ Answered March 16, 2026 at 8:45 MST

⟐ Answer accepted March 11, 2026 at 6:00 MST

Can I also lift the Macbook's logic board in strategic locations without complete removal to replace the battery?

⟐ Commented March 06, 2026 at 1:52 MST

When I first performed the battery replacement, I did not read the guide well enough and plugged it straight in to 12V power. I thought this had killed the logic board, as it would not turn on. So I purchased a donor machine (exact same model), which I confirmed worked before disassembly, and attempted a logic board swap. After swapping the logic boards between the two chassis and then back to their originals, neither one will power on. I have tried the 5V power trick to no avail.

I'm really stuck on this problem, as I now have two identical MacBooks with known working batteries that will not power on. I have tried different 5V power adapters, different USB-A to USB-C cables, and every combination of logic board and chassis. I have also repeatedly re-seated the USB-C port connector on each logic board, ensuring they are snapped into place correctly. I'm fairly certain all the rest of the flex cables are plugged in correctly, including the keyboard/trackpad cable.

When plugged in with a USB-C voltage reader, the readings are:

• 5.0-5.1V (as required after battery installation, depends on adapter used)
• 0.0475-0.07A (hovers depending on adapter and cable used, also varies slightly between the two machines)
• Average of 0.3W

With the wattage reading in particular, I've noticed strange behavior. I have attempted resetting both the PRAM and SMC, and only resetting the SMC seems to make a difference. When the SMC is reset, the wattage reading goes down to about 0.1W and then quickly returns to 0.25-0.3W. When the power buttons are pressed, the wattage spikes slightly as high as 0.4W. And, weirdest of all, there was one case where resetting the SMC and pressing the power button spiked the wattage reading to over 1W, but only for a second.

Anyone experienced issues like this? I've tried every troubleshooting step I've come across on iFixit and Reddit, etc., so new ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Commented January 30, 2026 at 10:50 MST

I have removed all of the screws and go to remove the back and it does not lift off so nice and easy - looks like there is a catch about halfway on both right and left side. Do I force it open?

Okay - so first of all it was not a Macbook Air - it was a Macbook. I took a picture of the writing on the back and was able to zoom in and find the model and EMC number.

Once you get the screws out there are 2 clips - one on each side that are a bit stubborn...but you get them unclipped and you got it.

I also had the wrong battery....so wait for now

Thanks for the feedback

Pat

⟐ Edited January 22, 2026 at 15:54 MST

Is there a fix for this? Not sure what to do next.

Thank you

Paul

⟐ Commented January 20, 2026 at 12:34 MST

⟐ Commented December 23, 2025 at 8:21 MST

I have a white macbook A1181.

It is a 2,4Ghz Core 2 Duo.

I have a problem with my topcase.

I tried a lot of things already, but then I do not know.

He was no longer detected. I replaced it and same result.

I cleaned the connector with alcohol with a brush ... But nothing was done.

I redid the solder points of the connector and now it works!

But only 1 minutes or 2 ... After it stops functioning without doing anything ...

I do not really know what to do ..

Any ideas?

⟐ Commented December 07, 2025 at 12:00 MST

My MacBook doesn‘t turn on after SMC reset. I've found on Apple pages that this can happen if you reset the SMC without your MacBook connected to its AC power adapter. I've also tried PRAM and SMC reset and nothing.

Black screen, no charging sound and battery picture when connecting to power supply.

I wonder what is this little yellow button on logic board for? Do any of you have a problem like me?

Does anybody know location of power on pads?

⟐ Commented November 17, 2025 at 16:41 MST

I am thinking to just swap over the logic board to make a 'working' unit, but I am concerned that there maybe an irreparable GPU issue other than a faulty display..... to me it looks reminiscent of the scenario when changing the default resolution and then rebooting where these similar lines appear for a split second until the system recognizes the adjusted resolution which to me points to a GPU error as the lines remain as pictured when the system is active.

⟐ Answer accepted October 27, 2025 at 15:47 MST

New here, would appreciate any advice.

My MacBook 2015 ( I know is now old but I happen to love the machine ) keyboard stopped working so I bought a new keyboard ribbon cable. I fit this cable and ever since then my MacBook wont power on.

When I open it up with power plugged into it, the LED on the MLB opposite side to the battery disconnect button, starts dim then gets brighter in 3 stages then returns to being dim and it just keeps doing this.

I tried the unplug of the USB C, disconnect the battery (Press the button) and then press and hold the power button for 5 seconds, this did nothing.

I bought a second user MLB thinking that I had bricked it, but this does the exact same thing so I can only deduce thet either the trackpad (or the trackpad to keyboard ribbon cable) is bad or I am just extremely unlucky and purchased another dead board.

I am trying to work out exactly where on the face up side of the board (when its in the chassis) the power on pads on to see if I can jump it and if it powers on, then Ill know that the trackpad or cable is faulty.

I hope someone could help :) Thank you in advance.

⟐ Answer edited October 17, 2025 at 5:54 MST

It’s not turning on, the charger turns orange, but trying to reset the SMC doesn’t appear to work, as I don’t get the confirmation blink turning to green.

What do: This is an ‘as is’ computer I bought, so don’t have a lot of history on it except the owner claimed it worked when he last used it. Was stripped of RAM and HDD, so I put them in.

No beeps when trying to start. Nothing! Not powering on at all, but charger indicator is Orange.

Edit: Could this be the problem?

⟐ Commented October 16, 2025 at 7:12 MST

⟐ Answer accepted October 15, 2025 at 9:38 MST

⟐ Commented September 30, 2025 at 13:50 MST

I bought this MacBook knowing that it didn't turn on. Now I'm under the hood, the light next to the battery disconnect is lighting up, but still no boot. When I plug it into power without the battery connected, the light comes on, but still nothing. The area around the keyboard warms up like my working MacBook Pro when charging. The MacBook is taking power but is not turning on. I've checked the charge port (no physical damage), all the ribbon cables (also no damage), and still nothing. Could it be the actual power button? Idk what to check next.

⟐ Commented September 26, 2025 at 20:06 MST

Thank you for your help

⟐ Commented September 18, 2025 at 6:17 MST

I have a "Apple MacBook Genuine A1278 MB466LL/A MB466 Silver Touchpad & Cable 821-1254-A."

It's the internal trackpad from a modern MacBook Pro. It has some kind of 22-pin connector on the end of the cable. Does anyone know if it would be possible to convert this trackpad into a standalone USB mouse that could be used on another computer?

Here's a similar hack for older model Macbook Pros: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVQKl-HV...

Thanks!

⟐ Commented August 15, 2025 at 21:37 MST

⟐ Answer edited August 11, 2025 at 20:42 MST