I have everything you need (or so I think) to use my imac lcd panel (panel LM240WU2 ( SL) ( B4 ) ) as a monitor for other pc

http://i62.tinypic.com/112e876.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/2mwxct2.jpg

also I connect the cable from the inverter to the lcd

this http://i59.tinypic.com/f10dts.jpg to http://i57.tinypic.com/f2itxd.jpg

Connect the power cord from the iMac ( white ) energy to the panel. and I connect the power adapter to the board vga 12V 2A

but does not work , connect via a PC to give vga video signal and does not work

do I wrong ?

Help please :(

⟐ Answered April 02, 2026 at 23:00 MST

Actually I had no problems until I changed the battery. I changed the battery and ran it, I used it until it had 5% charge left and then I plugged it into the charger.

But, the next day when I turned on the computer, I got the error message that no battery was detected. I tried many things (PRAM & SMC). but the problem is that although it does not recognize the battery, it works with the battery and when I plug in the charging cable, the cable LED does not light up. there is also an excessive fan noise when running on battery and the fan never turns off. When I do SMC reset again, it does not see the battery again, but the cable LED lights Red and the computer shuts down when pulled.

⟐ Commented April 02, 2026 at 11:40 MST

I never tried this method yet just wondering if there is another method possible, the system is running nice and smooth apart from this 'issue'. It seems that I will need to do a clean install again to resolve this. @danj Any Idea on how to 'resolve this'?

⟐ Edited by author April 01, 2026 at 3:54 MST

⟐ Answer edited April 01, 2026 at 4:01 MST

I’m troubleshooting a MacBook Air A1932 (2018, EMC 3184) that suffered water damage. I’ve done extensive testing and want to get some expert opinions before proceeding with repairs.

Behaviour:

1. Internal display works on cold boot, but after closing the lid and reopening:
   • Keyboard lights come on, sound works
   • Screen remains completely black
   • Flashlight test shows nothing on display
2. External display tests:
   • Using a USB-C hub to pass power + HDMI → external video does NOT work
   • Removing power from the hub → HDMI video works normally (without sound passing)
   • After closing the lid, the external display continues to work while the internal display never comes back

Fixes:

• From the water damage and inspection to the original components, I already replaced the audio board (due to signs of corrosion), which fixed the not-booting problem resulting from the spill.
• Now, with these "new" problems, I'm thinking of buying a replacement A1932 logic board (820-01521) with a matching Touch ID/power button.

Am I correct in thinking this is the way forward, or are there any other tests I can do? Maybe other parts that I should replace first?

Thanks

⟐ Commented March 31, 2026 at 13:41 MST

⟐ Answer accepted March 31, 2026 at 12:30 MST

⟐ Answer accepted March 31, 2026 at 6:32 MST

I've tried all the suggested online fixes including reset NVRAM, reset SMC, Forced Restart, ran Disk Utility, Safe Mode starts, etc. and so far nothing has worked. Can't find anyone else here (yet, still sorting thru) having the same issue but my guess is it's Display related or possibly motherboard?

⟐ Answered March 30, 2026 at 16:40 MST

Apple refuses to repair this MacBook so it will power on even though AppleCare still covers it.*

Apple says they will replace this MacBook Air, but Apple says to replace it I must send them the MacBook Air intact, with the SSD intact. This would be great except the SSD hasn't been erased, the SSD isn't encryped, and the SSD contains very valuable information. (All the information has been backed up to an encrypted external SSD.)

The problem is I am not comfortable returning the computer to Apple without erasing the SSD because it contains all sorts of valuable information, including passwords to important financial accounts and various personal identifiers for me and for others. Because the computer won't power on, I don't know a way to erase the SSD.

The Apple phone advisors I spoke with say that I have spoken to send the computer back with an intact SSD. I have offered to remove the SSD myself and pay Apple for the SSD and/or to send the smashed pieces of the SSD with the Macbook when I return the MacBook. The Apple Advisors have said that Apple won't make an exception to receiving the Macbook intact with SSD, saying this Apple policy.

One of the Apple phone advisors stated I should see if the Apple Store would erase the SSD even though I told the Advisor the "geniuses" at the Apple Store have already said they can't erase the disk because the machine is "vintage" (more than 5 years old) and Apple doesn't sevice "vintage" machines. This Apple phone advisor also refused to send any of this advice in writing via text or email. This advisor also would not provide information on how to escalate my complaint.

Bottomline:

I want to erase the erase the SSD on this MacBook Air that won't power up so I can feel comfortable in returning it to Apple to get a replacement computer. Is there a way I can erase the MacBook's SSD?

Thanks in advance.

*I tried to get the power issues diagnosed and repaired in 2023 when they first appeared. The "geniuses" at the Apple Store said power issues weren't covered under AppleCare and that it would cost a minimum of $450 to dagnose and fix the problem. Oddly,in March of 2026 the "geniuses" at the same Apple Store said the problem was covered by AppleCare but they couldn't work on the MacBook because it was "vintage" (more than 5 years old).

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 18:32 MST

Issue 1: When the laptop is on, closing the lid does nothing. The screen stays on, the system doesn't go to sleep, sound still plays.

Issue 2: I believe is related to issue 1 because they appeared at the same time. If I restart or turn on the laptop from an off state, the display is blank. It's not off, as the backlight is still on, caps lock and force trackpad are working. Plugging an external monitor does nothing, so does unplugging it. Here's where it gets weird. If I blindly input my password and press enter, nothing happens. But if plug in my monitor after that point, the system is already logged in and on the desktop.

Important note, the laptop fell down and the display got cracked 6 months ago, so I got it replaced at a non official repair shop. Upon repair, everything was working as normal, until this problem appeared a couple of weeks ago.

I feel like I tried everything. I did a complete system reinstall. I assumed it was a faulty lid sensor, so I ordered a new one on aliexpress and replaced it myself, ran the repair assistant. I know for a fact the lid sensor is working fine, as when I use this lid sensor angle tool, the angle displayed is correct.

So is it hardware or software? Did I get a faulty replacement display, or did something else break during the fall or the repair? I'm at a loss. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 17:54 MST

I have spilled bit of tea (no sugar) on my MacBook Pro 2015 (top right keyboard area, so around the right fan).

I have switched it off immediately and dried it for 3 days

I have switched it on today, it is working but kinda very slow.

I have IStat Menus:

All stats are looking fine except:

*Intel Iris GPU temperature at 0 degrees.

*High Kernel in my processes (around 500) and high CPU usage.

*High amperage CPU High (CPU, I/O) (95,8 A) and Radeon GPU core (75)

-> When the GPU switch to AMD, temperature is normal (36 degrees).

I have followed the steps from IfixIt to open it and remove the right fan: unplug battery, remove WiFi card, remove the right fan.

Brushed everything around that area with alcohol 96, but the issue is still here.

I do not know what to do as next step…

I feel I could continue the cleaning, bit deeper but I am not sure :-(

Do you have suggestions?

Thanks a lot for your help

EDIT 29.03.2026

Tanks a lot for the help!

I have taken off the logic board and indeed it was bit damaged below. I have cleaned all the impacted areas with iso alcool 96. If you see other areas that I should clean up let me know :)

Before:

After:

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 14:21 MST

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 11:16 MST

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 8:04 MST

I got horizontal lines over the display! During the warranty period they replaced the board ( it blacked out ) and now this is happening. They refused to replace the device saying out of warranty and asked to replace it :-|. They were not even sure that changing the display will fix the issue. I am hesitant to replace the screen as I am better off to buy a new one rather keep repairing the faulty product.

Is there any way to fix it?

Tried
- Reinstall the OS
- External Display = Works fine
- Reseating those 3 cables

Lines kind of flickers, may be some lose cables?

Please help

⟐ Answered March 29, 2026 at 1:03 MST

⟐ Answer edited March 28, 2026 at 17:42 MST

The TouchID button has a small integrated flex/ribbon cable (labeled "00920-A") that then plugs into a secondary flex/ribbon that extends the original and changes its plug type so it can connect to the logic board under the headphone jack ribbon. That extender cable is labeled with "821-00645-A // MFC0517" and I've been able to find them for sale, but I can't find replacement TouchID sensor anywhere.

Powerbookmedic's listing for the palmrest claimed that the TouchID sensor is not included with the palmrest as they are "married to the logic board". Does that mean that if the TouchID sensor/button is damaged or if its cable is ripped, the ENTIRE LOGIC BOARD needs to be replaced?

Please, somebody, tell me that this isn't true.

⟐ Commented March 27, 2026 at 12:52 MST

Issue video on youtube (don't forget not everytime randomly and less than 250ms): https://youtube.com/shorts/EHbUNVcB7Dg?s...

On macOS 26.2-26.3 and 26.3.1 (Apple Silicon M2 Pro), I am experiencing a very brief (1-frame) UI compositing glitch on the internal display. The issue occurs within a very brief time window (less than 250 ms), but it is extremely disruptive and visually distracting.

- Not thermal or load-related (tested under sustained high load)

- Installing third-party display scaling tools (e.g., BetterDisplay) reduces the frequency but does not eliminate the issue. (BetterDisplay installed on 26.3 but issue was also consistent at 26.2)

- A clean installation performed according to Apple’s official guidelines did not resolve the issue.

Behavior:

- The glitch appears as a brief (single-frame) layer misalignment or compositing artifact.

- It occurs even during light usage such as web browsing.

- It is particularly noticeable and disruptive while using code editors (UI instability is visually distracting).

Frequency:

- The issue repeats continuously.

- Sometimes it happens very frequently.

- Other times it occurs randomly every few minutes or every few hours.

- The behavior appears non-deterministic but persistent over time.

⟐ Commented March 27, 2026 at 2:16 MST

None will allow me to format them (8TB & 16TB).

I formated one of the 16TB on a PC but when I connected to my early 2015 13" MacBook Pro Retina it first saw the external SSD, but then was lost and cannot write to it.

Is the MacBook Pro (A1502) compatible with external MSATA SSD drives?

If not, is there anything I can do so that my MacBook Pro can read and write to these drives?

Thanks.

⟐ Commented March 26, 2026 at 20:29 MST

• One big 12 pin molex connector connected to the logic board.
• One small 2 pin connector connected to the power button.
• One small 7 pin connector, connected to the logic board via a flat cable.

The big 12 pin molex connector is apparently the 12V rail. It's also confirmed by the schematic.

The 2 pin connector for power button is probably a passthrough to the logic button. The PSU usually needs a PS_ON pin to be pulled to the ground to keep on, if it's like an ATX PSU.

The 7 pin connector probably has that PS_ON pin, along with some other pins. I'm trying to figure out their functions. According to the schematic, they are:

1. PWR_BTN_R
2. GND
3. SMC_ACDC_ID_R
4. TSNS_ACDC_N
5. TSNS_ACDC_P
6. GND
7. BURSTMODE_EN_R_L

So, it confirms my suspicion about the power button. Pin 1 must be the power button pass-through. I looked up burst mode, which I probably don't need to worry about. But I'm unclear about the rest 3:

• SMC_ACDC_ID_R
• TSNS_ACDC (Positive and Negative)

Can someone shed some light on them?

P.S. does anyone know what kind of connector it is? I hate cutting the original cable. Worst case, I can solder wires to the PCB but it's kinda hard to do with the connector in place.

Schematic:

Connector:

⟐ Commented March 26, 2026 at 17:18 MST

⟐ Commented March 26, 2026 at 8:23 MST