⟐ Commented March 28, 2026 at 4:52 MST

⟐ Answer accepted March 11, 2026 at 22:22 MST

⟐ Answered March 08, 2026 at 1:04 MST

I'm also change the pressure switch

And inlet

But it showing IE error

⟐ Commented March 08, 2026 at 0:58 MST

⟐ Answered February 20, 2026 at 0:54 MST

⟐ Commented February 08, 2026 at 4:42 MST

My LG front loader washer would not go into the drain stage of the washing cycle.

First there were noises coming from a drain pump, then it sat for a while and displayed OE error. No drain or spin happened.

As many posts suggested, I checked the drain filter (it was clean), hoses and replaced the drain pump with a brand new one.

I then tried Rinse+Spin and Speed Wash cycles with no clothes, to confirm that it got fixed, but to no avail.

It again stopped on the Drain/Spin stage and displayed the OE error after sitting for a while, no loud noises were coming from the new pump though.

I then went through a diagnostic run, by pressing Soil Level and Spin + Power, albeit with the same result - no drain occurred.

What else could I do, please?

Thank you!

⟐ Commented January 25, 2026 at 16:55 MST

⟐ Answer accepted January 17, 2026 at 12:25 MST

⟐ Commented December 25, 2025 at 20:48 MST

⟐ Answer edited October 27, 2025 at 18:21 MST

I replaced the PCB and it has been ok for a month. Yesterday, nothing. I managed to get it to work by holding the power button and continuously clicking the wall plug on and off. I'm assuming it's not the power filter because the LED on the PCB is lighting up.

Surely not another faulty PCB.

Maybe I need a rubber hammer!

Thanks for any ideas.

Initial Problems:

About 2 months ago, my washer began turning off in between the wash and rinse cycles with increasing frequency. It would give error code PF (power failure) each time it was turned back on. This past week it stopped turning on at all. It is direct drive, but even turning the tub manually from the inside does not cause it turn on, even momentarily. Also, turning the tub manually now requires significantly more force. It used to spin freely and now it does not. Also, I found this gasket laying inside the tub at some point. I am not sure if it belongs to the washer.

Tests / Diagnoses :

I tested the Power Cord, Noise Filter, Cold Water Inlet Valve, and Hot Water Inlet Valve for continuity. The PC and NF passed, the Valves failed. Additionally, the Valves had a lot of buildup in them. From another post I read, I assume it was melted resin from my old water heater that I recently had replaced. The Control Board has a blown component on it.

Repairs Attempted:

I replaced the Valves and the Control Board.

"New" Problems:

The same as before – the washer will not turn on and turning the tub manually does not cause it to turn on, even momentarily. The replacement Valves did not test positive for continuity, but I went ahead and installed them anyways. There is a light on the Control Board that I assume turns on when it is receiving power, but it is not turning on even when everything is plugged in.

I don't think the User Control and Display Board is the problem since the Control Board is not receiving power. Even if the replacement Valves are bad, that should not prevent the washer from starting. The wall outlet is indeed putting out 120 volts by the way. If the replacement Control Board is not bad then I am at a loss as to what the problem could be at this point.

I do not have the kind of money to hire someone to fix this or to buy a replacement, so any help would be a life saver!

Edit 1: Out of desperation, I removed the replacement Control Board and tested continuity of the fuse – negative. I'm 99% sure ShopJimmy sent me a bad Control Board! Unfortunately, you cannot just remove and replace the fuse – it is epoxied into place and I do not want to mess with it since it is still returnable/replaceable. I will edit again when I have an update.

Hi @jayeff and @michealinglis, thank y'all so much for your answers. It's taken me awhile but I've taken apart my washer and taken my multimeter to it following the guide on page 22 of the manual. Here is that page with my notes: WM2501H Copy

I'm not really experienced with anything electrical at all, so I'm not sure I'm using my multimeter correctly (I found the user guide for it but am still not sure). At this point it seems like I will need to replace some, if not all, of the wiring at this point? I haven't looked up the cost for other parts yet, but at that point, for me, it is no longer worth trying to fix it if I have to pour any more money into it. Similar used models in my area are cheaper than the CB replacement.

Let me know what you think. Thanks!

Also the tub spins freely now. I did undo the whole stator/rotor assembly for testing. Not sure if that fixed it or if it had something to do with it being plugged in with the shorted initial CB replacement.

⟐ Commented October 04, 2025 at 18:41 MST

⟐ Answer edited February 12, 2026 at 12:27 MST

⟐ Answered September 20, 2025 at 13:57 MST

Background:

https://www.lg.com/hk_en/laundry/combo-w...

My washer dryer lives on my covered balcony and is covered by a plastic sheet for some protection. This I guess was not enough during a recent typhoon in my area, and I suspect it got wetter than it could tolerate.

What still works:

• The machine is still switching on when I turn the mains power on.
• The display comes on as expected.
• WiFi connectivity and the LG ThinQ app can see it successfully.
• I can run a diagnostic report in the ThinQ app and it says it’s 100% normal.

What is wrong:

• The chime it normally plays has a very elongated final note
• The physical and touch sensitive buttons are not responding
• The knob is not responding
• After running the diagnostic report in the app, the machine sounded like it was stuck in some sort of loop as the chimes it was playing were continuous and quite erratic
• No wash or dry cycles can be initiated

Video showing original symptoms:

What I’ve tried so far:

1. Left the machine unplugged for several very dry days. No difference.
2. Sourced a replacement knob controller unit (original EBR331191, replacement EBR339279) and display board unit (both EBR356611) and replaced. Machine power button works as expected, but the machine powers off if I start to twist the knob or press other buttons.
3. Video showing symptoms after replacing parts above:

#

#

Top view of machine with top removed

Thank you so much in advanced!

Ben

⟐ Commented September 17, 2025 at 8:18 MST

⟐ Answer edited March 19, 2026 at 11:57 MST

⟐ Edited August 26, 2025 at 2:51 MST

The water should be draining out of the drain hose.

⟐ Commented August 11, 2025 at 17:52 MST