⟐ Commented November 12, 2024 at 21:18 MST

⟐ Commented October 25, 2020 at 11:57 MST

⟐ Answer edited July 12, 2025 at 14:29 MST

⟐ Answer accepted November 12, 2024 at 11:29 MST

⟐ Answer accepted October 04, 2024 at 8:36 MST

⟐ Commented May 22, 2023 at 10:48 MST

 The outside assemblies have turn signal incandesce lights, taillight and stop function led lights. The inside assemblies have backup incandesce lights, taillight and stop function led lights

Problem.

The stop light LED’s do not work correctly. There are 5 rear light assemblies on this car. 1 each on the rear quarter panels (identified as outside) and 1 each on the trunk ((identified as inside) and 1 in the high center mounted over the trunk (stop only). The stop light function does not work on the 2 outside assemblies LED’s and the left hand inside assembly LED’s. The taillights LED’s all work.

The cost of new LED assemblies is about $225.00 each.

I used a volt-ohm meter to check for proper voltage and ground connections.

GROUND CHECK- I disconnected the wire connectors of the car from all the assemblies.

I verified the ground connection by; (a) Black lead of the car wire harness connected to the ohm meter and ohm meter connected to the chassis and (b) the black lead of the car wire harness connected to the ohm meter and the ohm meter connected to the battery ground post. In both cases the resistance was 0 ohms.

VOLTAGE CHECK – I connected the voltmeter neg. led to chassis and the positive lead of the voltmeter to the red/or lead of the car harness, one connector at a time and had a helper apply the brakes, ignition off. All 4 of the car connections had 12.8 volts dc. I then connected the positive lead of the voltmeter to the green lead of the car harness, one connector at a time, and turned on the taillights, ignition off. I had 12.7 volts dc. I then repeated these steps with the car running with the same results except the voltage was 13.8 volts dc. This verified proper voltage to the light assemblies.

Not wanting to spend the money for a new assembly I found a used one left hand inside assembly and ordered it. When it arrived, I installed it and applied the brakes, the stop light worked on the LH inside assembly and the RH inside assembly (this was working before), good I thought. I then turned on the taillights and they worked, good I thought. Then with the taillights on I applied the brakes, no brake lights, now what?

During all this I found out that with the taillights not on and when the brakes are applied that the taillights of each assembly come on. Remember that the RH inside assembly is working, I am not sure if the taillights are supposed to come with the brake lights if the taillights are not on to start with.

I decided to rig up a test light using a 1157 incandescent bulb and the connector from the light assembly that I removed. With this I verified that the stop light and taillight function work and the taillights do not receive voltage from the car harness when the brakes are applied. I assume that on the driver board for the LED lights there is a trace causing the taillights to come on if the taillights are not already on. I made another test assembly for the removed LH light assembly. I connected a ground lead to the black lead and a positive lead from the battery to the green lead of the assembly. The taillights worked. I then connected the positive lead from the battery to the red/or lead of the assembly, the stop light LED did not light work, but the taillights did.

I reviewed the rear lamp circuit from ShopKey Pro. I noted that there a many common connections. Wire lead 10 (red/or) that feeds the left rear outside stop light and wire lead 11 (red/or) that feeds the right rear outside stop light have a common point at the connector designated EF11. This also connects to high mounted stop light and the inside stop lights.

Now back to the EF11 connector, this leads to a 9-wire assembly lead blue connection point 5 and to a 10-wire assembly lead blue point 6.

Blue point 6 leads back to the ESC module The ESC module has an input from the brake switch (pin 9 blue), stop lamp signal (pin 23 green) from the stop lamp relay (3 green), and the HAC relay (pin 8 brown)

Blue point 5 leads back to the HAC relay (pin 8 blue).

********This is what I know.

A. the turn signal lights work.

B. the backup lights work.

C. the RH inside assemble works.

D. the taillights work.

E. The stop light led’s on the outside and the LH inside do NOT work.

F. The stop light over the trunk works’

This is what I do NOT know.

A.  What could the cause of the LED driver on 3 of 4 (plus the one purchased) assemblies to go bad.

B.  Are the taillight suppose to come on when the brakes are applied, and the taillights are not already on?

C. Can I use the Incandescent light assemblies on the car? I know that the 2012 through 2017 assemblies are the same but does the wire connector on the assembly match up to the wire connector on the car side. If they do not, I can splice in the correct connector from the old assemblies.

⟐ Commented October 13, 2022 at 14:41 MST

⟐ Comment deleted November 09, 2019 at 23:02 MST

⟐ Answered December 04, 2017 at 0:20 MST

⟐ Answer edited October 28, 2018 at 7:32 MST

⟐ Answered July 10, 2025 at 17:08 MST

⟐ Answered May 12, 2025 at 16:27 MST

⟐ Comment deleted April 07, 2022 at 11:51 MST

⟐ Answer edited March 14, 2026 at 0:03 MST

Arabic->English translation:

Title: Why does the steering wheel become difficult to turn due to an electrical fault?

Description: Steering wheel stiffness

⟐ Answered February 28, 2026 at 3:56 MST

⟐ Answered February 11, 2026 at 18:48 MST

⟐ Answered December 29, 2025 at 18:09 MST

⟐ Answer edited December 12, 2025 at 19:08 MST

⟐ Answered September 26, 2025 at 20:27 MST

⟐ Answer edited September 21, 2025 at 23:49 MST