I have cleaned the condenser section which was quite dirty but not completely clogged. I carefully vacuumed and cleaned stuck on films from the fan blade & condenser coils. The refrigerant suction temp is cool going into the compressor and very warm descarging out of the compressor. I see no components that seem to have any issues running and activating, etc.

I have not pulled interior panels yet since I hear the evaporator fan running and feel the airflow coming from the top center vent opening at rear of the freezer section.

I found the tech info sheet below the front underside of the unit and tried the panel display test and the push button PCB test as instructed there. Both test showed no error codes.

As far as I can tell, it has been running continually since the problem became consistant. There does seem to bee a high frequency sound I believe coming from the compressor, but not overly alarming in volume level.

I am an HVAC technician with extensive background knowledge but need help with someone who can help me complete this diagnosis and repair it myself.

Please advise with my sincere respect and appreciation, Randall

I have determined that the display board still works. I found this when I was attempting to remove the display board/panel and was putting upward pressure on the tabs trying to unseat them. As I was essentially lifting the entire door (left) slightly while doing so, I noticed that the display panel lit up. Once I removed the tension, it went blank again. So, I lifted the entire door by 1/2" or so, and the panel lit up again, and once I let it back down, it went blank.

So, I took the top left hinge cover off and can see the wires and the braided water line go through the left hand edge/hinge area of the door. It is very tight in the small hole that has the water line and a taped set of wires going down through it.

I suspect that the wires for the display panel are being pinched and are likely somewhat frayed from the constant motion of the door swinging, but I cannot determine who to get into the door itself to track the wires and see where the issue might be.

I can pull up slightly on the wiring that goes through the hole, but the wires are all taped together at that point. So, either the issue is under the tape, or below that point. That is the area I am trying to get into.

Any thoughts on how to disassemble the left door enough that I can get in to see the wires and they travel down the left spine of the door?

Thanks!

⟐ Commented April 07, 2026 at 3:12 MST

⟐ Commented January 31, 2026 at 7:26 MST

⟐ Answered January 22, 2026 at 8:40 MST

door not working.

⟐ Commented December 21, 2025 at 17:37 MST

I do not have any voltage on the emmiter plug. No led lights, no blinks, nothing. I have replaced ice maker, oem emitter boards, main control board, freezer door switch. I think I might have a broken power wire but I do not have a wiring diagram to chase it down. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or any suggestions? The black wire on the emmiter plug is suppose to be 120 volts constant and I dont have any.

Thanks

⟐ Commented December 09, 2025 at 22:41 MST

⟐ Commented October 31, 2025 at 14:09 MST

This thing is really quiet so it’s hard to tell if fan is going, but I’m pretty sure there is no significant fan working in the freezer.  My next step will be to take it apart when I get time and clean while it’s open, but my main question, maybe someone’s familiar….is there a central fan for the top and bottom?  Or any fail items on this model or similar LG that would cause these symptoms?

Used a temp gun to get current readings.

Freezer Setting:  0F

Reading:   24F

Fridge Setting: 33F

Reading: 53F

If someone is familiar with the unit, I’d really appreciate some help!

⟐ Answered October 24, 2025 at 10:59 MST

Freezer temp starts to drop down after a 72 hour restart. After that it remains pretty cold but not enough to freeze. So i restart, and in a couple of hours it works like new and start to get the bucket of ice maker in the door filled fast.

What could be the reason? Everything else works fine

As a last resort I feel like i can buy a power plug that cycles restarts it every 3 days but that will probably hurt the fridge so i would use it until it dies.

Should i just use it this way until it dies? Or should i bring a tech to see if it's worth the fix?

⟐ Edited November 14, 2025 at 14:04 MST

⟐ Answer edited February 11, 2026 at 14:44 MST

I am a commercial refrigeration tech...but am not familiar with residential units like this...I repaired a leak but have trouble weighing in 4oz...plus i changed the drier and believe that will change the charge any way

⟐ Answered June 09, 2025 at 21:39 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 26, 2025 at 23:12 MST

It won't eject the cubes it makes, the control arm doesn't move (auto or manual), and manually initiated ejection [cycle] of ice stalls when ejectors hit the cubes, but they eject about an hour later. This likely means that the arm didn't move automatically earlier either (I can't sit and watch it all day). Then water refill not initiated every time.

I don't think anything is working automatically. Initial water fill was after manual turn of the dial to initiate first cycle. After 12 hours, no functions. I initiated manual cycle, ejectors got stuck on ice. An hour later the cubes finally ejected, but control arm didn't appear to move at any point. I cycled manually again, water finally refilled. Arm still apparently unmoving.

I have already replaced the Automatic Water Supply Valve (AWSV) that feeds the icemaker to solve a previous issue, and I tested with a known GOOD icemaker successfully. So I know the problems are within the existing icemaker.

⟐ Answered May 18, 2025 at 2:08 MST

⟐ Commented April 22, 2025 at 20:57 MST

⟐ Commented February 10, 2025 at 13:38 MST

⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 9:19 MST

The fridge is set to 35 degrees and the freezer is set to 0 degrees.

This goes on all day long. Up and down temps.

The freezer stays at 0 degrees.

One minute the refrigerator could be at 32 degrees and then 20 minutes later it could be 47 degrees.

No Sears technicians have been able to fix this.

They have replaced the Compressor, the main Control Board, and a thermostat in the refrigerator . The door seals are all fine.

The model number is 795.72099.312

Anybody else ever had this same problem and have a solution?

⟐ Commented January 12, 2025 at 17:10 MST

We rent and are responsible if any appliances stop working :( We cannot afford a fridge right now so our landlord gave us a fridge that’s half the size and won’t fit much

Recently, the water dispenser started leaking everywhere when you use it. It still works, water just also comes out from random places around the dispenser and goes everywhere

I know we should just get a new one but does anyone know why this could be happening? Our water pressure also fluctuates dramatically throughout the month, idk if that helps at all

⟐ Answered January 09, 2025 at 14:34 MST