⟐ Commented September 18, 2025 at 21:40 MST

⟐ Commented August 29, 2025 at 14:45 MST

⟐ Commented August 20, 2025 at 20:01 MST

So the other day my wife throws in a load of laundry and comes back hours later to find that the washer control knob is in the off position (as if it completed the cycle) and the tub is full of water.

I take a look and find that if I place the knob at the beginning of a cycle I hear a hum but no agitation. If I place it in Spin mode and activate the lid switch manually, it will make the usual sound when engaging the tub to spin but instead of spinning it just hums. Thinking that something might be stuck, I manually drained most of the water and attempted the same operation and found that the tub would move slightly (less than a eighth of a turn. I then attempted to jerk it into motion by leaving it in spin mode and repeatedly activating the lid switch and every so often I'd get a quarter turn of the tub and started to smell a slight burning odor and stopped after that.

I then found an article (well written) that talked about the motor coupling and ended up tearing the machine down only to find that the coupler was intact (not shredded/broken/disintegrated).

The last observation I can offer is that I am barely able to move the tub by hand (but seem to recall that I should be able to freely) but can move the agitator just fine (in the opposite direction of the tub).

Not sure if it's the tranny or ??

⟐ Commented May 22, 2025 at 10:06 MST

⟐ Answer accepted January 03, 2025 at 12:18 MST

⟐ Commented December 01, 2024 at 12:47 MST

⟐ Commented November 15, 2024 at 10:04 MST

⟐ Commented November 04, 2024 at 15:48 MST

⟐ Answer accepted October 20, 2024 at 10:19 MST

I disassembled the machine and cleaned everything up with the following findings and results:

I found quite a bit of fine black dust on the floor under the machine, the foundation, and tri-base plates.  I’m guessing this was from the brake, clutch and/or tub wear pads.

Springs are intact but look a little weak / stretched out.  The tub sags a bit to the front-right, especially during spin.  I’ve got some on order and plan to replace all 3 suspension springs and the counterbalance spring when they arrive.

One tub wear pad is missing entirely (front-left) and the other two are worn down considerably.  I’ve got some on order and plan to replace all 3 when they arrive.

Suspension pads are in good condition.

Removed drain pump.  Pump is good, no obstructions, and turns smoothly.

Removed motor.  Motor turns by hand smoothly in both directions.  All windings (start/slow/med/fast) check as good--show expected continuity and >2MOhm insulation resistance.  Some minor overheating on the molex connector for the neutral (white), but doesn’t seem to impact the operation of that circuit.

Motor coupler was worn a bit around the shaft (both motor and transmission sides), but was intact.  I went ahead and replaced this with a new-style coupler with the metal shaft mating surfaces.

When I removed the upper agitator, there were no agitator dogs installed (and no sign of them at all!).  I installed a new set.

I was unable to initially get the inner tub off of the drive block, and the top of the transmission shaft was not as far up as it should be: it looked like the whole inner tub was higher up on the transmission shaft than it ought to be.   I finally got it free by pulling up on the inner tub and tapping down (hard) on the top of the transmission with a rubber mallet.  The drive block was pretty encrusted with soap residue and corrosion, but I was able to clean it up with a wire brush and SOS pads and there was nothing obviously wrong with it once it was cleaned up.

When I went to remove the transmission, the brake assembly and spin tube came out with it.  The spin tube was jammed onto the shaft of the transmission and there was about a 1 to 1 1/2 inch gap between the top of the clutch and the bottom of the brake assembly, such that the clutch spring wasn’t engaging the brake pawl.

I was able to get the spin tube off the transmission by flipping it over, putting the top of the transmission up against the floor and alternately pushing down and twisting on the brake/spin tube until they came free.

I also noted some light scoring around the upper part of the transmission shaft (below the gear teeth) and the outside upper part of the spin tube.

Once removed, the transmission turned freely by hand in both directions, with the back-and-forth action in the agitate direction as expected.

The clutch seemed okay, but I had a new one on hand so I replaced it.  The brake pawl and assembly operated normally and appeared to be in good condition.

I cleaned the soap residue and corrosion off of everything and put it all back together (new clutch, new motor coupler, new agitator dogs, new lid switch), including a light oiling of all the metal-to-metal parts.

The machine now fills, agitates, drains and spins properly.  BUT, there’s still a rather loud metallic chattering or rattling when during Extra Slow and Slow agitation, as well as during Slow spin.  The noise is NOT apparent during Fast agitation and Fast spin.

Question 1:  Any idea what’s causing this metallic chattering in Ex Slow/Slow agitation and Slow spin?  If desired, I can post a link to a short video/audio clip with the noise.

Question 2:  Any idea what caused the spin tube to jam onto the upper transmission shaft and why there was a gap between the clutch and the brake?  Is there something else (drive block, perhaps?) that I should be looking to replace to keep this from coming back?

Question 3:  Anything else I ought to be looking at but haven’t?

I’m quite interested in keeping this machine in good running condition (they don’t make ‘em like this anymore) and I'm willing to invest in doing so as long as it's economically feasible.

Thanks again for your insights and advice!

⟐ Commented May 25, 2024 at 21:37 MST

My Kenmore washer has two things going on.

First "new thing" is it agitates during initial water fill. Never did that before. It would normally fill properly to selected level... THEN start agitating. Now it just starts agitating second I turn it on.

Second thing is it continually adds water through rinse cycle AND spin cycle. So I get a water soaked load of laundry at end of spin cycle.

What part could I replace to correct the problem with the continuous rinse during spin/dry cycle?

Well, after reading repair boards/forums for days! I tried what someone suggested. It worked! All it cost was $7.

Go to AutoZone or Advance auto. Buy a can of CRC Lectra-Motive electric parts cleaner. Then go open the washing machine you can watch a YouTube video how to do it. Basically remove the two plastic side retainer pieces. Remove screws and clips. Get to the electronics. Spray down all control boards and connection plugs you find. It's basically having a bad connection or jumping do to years of humid conditions, dust, vibrations. I am not sure which part or wire connection was at fault. Like I said I sprayed all I found.

This cleaner is potent! Respirator recommended. Fan a must! Fan helps dry everything I sprayed. After spraying I left fan on high for 3 hours blowing into the sprayed parts.

Then I clipped the connections back together. Then put everything back together. Did a test load and BAM it was fixed. $7. No parts. It has been running perfect ever since. I can't even remember when I posted this.

It's NOT hard. YouTube video on opening unit. Get the CRC Electric cleaner and do it.

Our w/d are 1998 but we keep them clean. No reason to but new ones. The only other repair was the "dogs" on the agitator... it's a wear item. Kenmore/Whirlpool are great machines. NEVER BUY THOSE STUPID FRONT LOADER MACHINES! Keep it simple. People. BAM

Good luck!

⟐ Commented April 12, 2024 at 15:22 MST

Please HELP by sending me an answer!!!!

⟐ Answered April 11, 2024 at 21:09 MST

⟐ Commented March 20, 2024 at 6:27 MST

⟐ Answered March 01, 2024 at 2:39 MST

⟐ Answered February 06, 2024 at 7:50 MST

I checked the pump, it is clear, changed the knob to multiple positions but only get water to flow out. I will take apart again and inspect further for wires on the motor or capacitor. There is no noise from motor at all, there is no attempt to do anything, I have unplugged and plugged back in, I will have the model number this afternoon after I leave work. I did not see a thermal anywhere and if that was the case the machine being down for two days should clear the thermal unless it’s a manual reset I am missing or a thermal fuse and it is blown, I have replaced the coupler before so inspected that, what are some symptoms of the water level sensor failing and could that prevent it from spinning or draining for what ever reason?

⟐ Commented January 02, 2024 at 10:55 MST

⟐ Commented December 16, 2023 at 20:52 MST

⟐ Commented November 21, 2023 at 14:55 MST

⟐ Answer edited November 07, 2023 at 7:56 MST