⟐ Commented July 27, 2023 at 15:09 MST

⟐ Commented July 26, 2025 at 19:12 MST

⟐ Commented September 28, 2021 at 17:43 MST

⟐ Answered March 11, 2026 at 20:10 MST

I just took apart the unit and it appears that 2 capacitors are bulging a slight bit which may be the cause https://imgur.com/a/m7IJH4t when comparing to another image from someone selling the main board it looked normal and not bulged.

Replacing the Capacitors Fixed the dimming issue. It appears the affect the R6 series of the Hisense TV’s

The Capacitors are 10uF 350v capacitors

If your board looks like this which is shared between the R6 series and potentially other series then this will fix your issue. https://imgur.com/a/4jYFaFU

Before: https://i.imgur.com/IglQ5mN.jpg

After: https://i.imgur.com/tMy7jTw.jpg

⟐ Edited January 21, 2025 at 10:32 MST

hisense 32k20dw is the model of my tv. yesterday i turned it on it blinked 6 times and i got no picture. from what i read online its more than likely a blown capacitor. i also noticed theres a hissing noise coming from the power supplys pcb board i feel like thats the problem because i checked and i dont see anything fried on the other board but im still a newbie when it comes to things like this so id greatly appreciate some help. the board of intrest im looking at is a RSAG7.820.5338/ROH. i cant isolate the hissing noise it sounds almost like its in between the main board and the power supply. also the hissing noise is greater when the tv is off.

⟐ Answered June 11, 2023 at 10:34 MST

Were devastated because we only used it for 2 months!

We covered it and let rest for months then in November 2019 we tried to open it, God it went back again! Were so elated and somewhat still sad because the 1/4 of the screen is still broken, and the rest is completely fine!!

Then 6 hours of use……..the tv died again went back how broken it is, and were back dying inside

Please help is there anything we could do? Since it went back again but died again so its seems possible to give it a second life!

Helping would be soooo great and i will pray for you to have a wonderful life! Am not kidding

Edit :

Looks like this, so, yep the 1/4 part of the screen is the damaged part and that november we tried to open it the right side went back alive again then few hours, it went back looked like that in the picture again, yes it does have sound and not sure if its black all the time theres vertical lines appearing then disappearing anytime, i tried to remember how to get to netflix and yes it still has sound and these vertical lines with random color keeps playing around the screen (i have no idea what movie i played)

⟐ Answer accepted March 03, 2026 at 13:16 MST

Thanks for answers

⟐ Commented October 22, 2025 at 20:39 MST

What's strange is that after several minutes, the picture will start to resolve properly, starting at the top and working its way down. During this time, there are no issues with audio and the menus are responsive to input with no freezing or delay. Below are some pictures taken specific timeframes after the TV has been turned on (put into Store Mode to demonstrate).

Just after turning on:

After about 2 minutes

After about 5 minutes

After about 7 minutes

After about 10 minutes

I have tried replacing the T-Con board and the ribbon cables between it and the display, but the issue remained the same after doing this. Same with reseating the LDVS connectors to the main board.

I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace the main board now, however after being burned on a T-con replacement that I apparently didn't need, I thought I would ask if anyone has seen anything like this before and could advise if it might be from some other, environmental issue or an issue with the screen itself. I've tried running it on and off the surge protector, on a different outlet in the room, and even with the nearby router turned off in case there was EM interference.

⟐ Commented September 02, 2025 at 23:26 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 05, 2024 at 10:42 MST

⟐ Commented April 20, 2025 at 18:11 MST

⟐ Answered March 27, 2026 at 6:16 MST

my TV has been acting up and it is now stuck. Everytiem i turn it off and on again.. it turns itself OFF after a few minutes. I noticed that when i turn it ON the power light flashes a few times.

Anyone face this issue before and if so hwo did you fix it?

⟐ Answered March 11, 2025 at 5:08 MST

just got my tv and took it out the box and plug it in and this is the screen I get

⟐ Answered March 05, 2025 at 9:10 MST

Hi, just wondered if anyone has stripped down a 55” Hisense tv to repair or replace the backlight led strips?

Hoping to find a guide or video

Mine is the Hisense 55u7a model, but it’s likely there’s a number of other models that will look the same inside

I've got a couple of dark strips which I suspect is the led strips, or just one of the LED’s on that strip, though it could simply be a bad connection on the strip

hope someone can help

Cheers

⟐ Commented November 09, 2024 at 8:30 MST

⟐ Commented March 14, 2026 at 3:42 MST

Hisense LED 55A6G… it’s only a couple years old and suddenly wouldn’t turn on one day according to the previous owner.

I’ve done the basic troubleshooting of powering it off, holding the power button then turning it back on, etc. The red power button light flashes two times long, then a very quick two times and goes solid red again.

Capacitors that I can see look good.

Power cord has continuity.

I don’t see any panel lights at all.

Flashlight test, I can’t see if it’s trying to show a picture or not.

TCon board makes a brief buzzing sound when power lights flash two long times.

What’s the next step in troubleshooting?

I’m a computer guy, have done a few electronics projects and repairs, etc, but I’m pretty new to TVs. YouTube is a dead end at this point or I’m looking in the wrong places.

TIA

⟐ Commented September 01, 2024 at 23:29 MST

TV: Hisense H55MEC3050

Docs I found:

Power supply schematic RSAG7.820.6106 Power Supply

Driver IC Datasheet

Main board rsag7.820.6392 (haven’t looked for schematic)

I have a multimeter and an oscilloscope. I watched a few vids and read a few guides on how to troubleshoot the stuff, so this is what I’ve done. Once I turn the TV on:

1) Backlight Enable line between power supply and main logic board - always 3.7V (driver IC datasheet says it needs 1.7V for enable or higher and below 0.8V to disable)

2) Backlight dimming signal is 98% Duty cycle 4.7V (according to driver IC datasheet, should work). So pretty much stable 4.7V there. Like this:

3) Measured voltage on the backlight connector WITH connected backlight - on power on the voltage immediately jumps to the correct 170V, after ~400ms of stable flat 170V, it suddenly decays exponentially as if someone just cut the power to it or disabled backlight. I manage to notice backlight flash for a brief moment from the back side of the TV. After it decays, it stays at 1.3-1.5V forever. Looks like this:

4) Measured voltage on backlight connector WITHOUT backlight cable. It overshoots target voltage and then quickly decays too. Like so

5) There is no short circuit in the backlight itself, so it shouldn’t be some safety killswitch. Also, I would have voltage with unplugged backlight cable then, but I don’t (see 4).

6) Before I did most of these measurements, I replaced the power supply board RSAG7.820.6106 ''with another one from ebay (I thought 1.3V on backlight circuit and no short would mean power supply is dead. I was wrong.). Behavior of old and new power supply is 100% identical.

Tbh I have no clue what it is, but there isn’t actually much left. It’s not TCON board since the image is ok and it has nothing to do with backlight, then it could only be the main logic board with all the connectors, right?

Assistance would be much appreciated

⟐ Commented April 30, 2024 at 13:40 MST

⟐ Commented March 19, 2023 at 2:20 MST

⟐ Commented March 29, 2021 at 17:06 MST