⟐ Commented July 12, 2026 at 23:56 MST

⟐ Commented July 12, 2026 at 23:37 MST

Translation Arabic → English

The right-side joystick on my controller is faulty; it drifts to the left on its own. How can I fix it?

⟐ Edited July 13, 2026 at 1:16 MST

I recently successfully replaced the M92T36 IC on a Nintendo Switch motherboard using a hot air station. The console now boots up and charges normally. However, I am now facing an issue with the Right Joy-Con.

When I slide the right Joy-Con into the rail, the console does not detect it as attached (it stays on wireless mode). I opened up the console again to inspect the area and noticed that the ribbon cable and the FPC connector look perfectly fine.

However, upon closer inspection of the small SMD component cluster right next to the FPC connectors, I noticed that one SMD component at the very bottom of the row is completely missing (likely blown away or knocked off accidentally during my hot air rework of the M92T36).

I have attached a micro photo of my board showing the missing component's empty pads, alongside some reference screenshots from the iFixit teardown guide for comparison.

My questions are:

1. Is this missing component a resistor (in-series) or a filter/bypass capacitor (to GND)?

2. What is the exact value/specification of this missing component (looks like a 0402 package)?

3. If it is a resistor on a data/detection line, can I safely bridge the pads with solder or a jumper wire to restore the detection functionality?

I have a multimeter, soldering iron, and hot air station ready to fix this. Any guidance or schematic insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!

I've already verified the heatsink clamp (Step 19) and the main power supply screws are in place. Does anyone know if there are specific 'hidden' spots for these two screws, or if some models (like the CUH-20xx vs CUH-21xx) have extra holes that should remain empty?

⟐ Commented July 09, 2026 at 9:06 MST

As the title says, I can’t get the wipe & reinstall to finish. Here’s what I’ve checked so far:

• The new SSD (VIPER VP4000 Mini 500GB M.2 2230 PCIe Gen4 x4 SSD - Solid State Drive - VP4000M500GM23 )shows up in the partition manager, so the Deck does recognize it

• I put the SteamOS recovery image on a 16GB USB stick using the tool recommended on the Steam support page

• Note: the USB stick had ~0.5GB of existing files on it before I flashed it (which I backed up first), not sure if this is causing issues.

Every time I start the reinstall, Konsole opens, executes a few lines, and then just closes, it happens quick, can’t see errors because it closes too fast, no completion, nothing.

Things I’m wondering about:

1. Could the pre-existing files on the USB stick have caused the flash to go wrong? Should I fully wipe and put the recovery img on it again? Would just deleting everything count as a full wipe or do I need to do something else (im on a Macbook).

2. Could the newness of the SSD be causing issues? I can see it in partition manager but haven’t checked whether it’s GPT or something.

3. Is there anything in the recovery process I might be missing? Or anybody had a similar experience?

Any help appreciated: happy to provide more details if needed!

Hi

I managed to release the magic smoke out of my ps5. I can't remember exactly what happened since it was a while ago. Anyway it now has the powers on for two seconds with blue light then switches off fault.

I somehow managed to trace the fault to the area circled in red. All stages but the last two are shorted. I checked in diode mode across each of the capacitors, everyone of them except the last two (bottom) are shorted.

My plan was to remove them one by one and see if the short on each of them disappears. I am hoping it's not the smd ic next to the caps because thats beyond my skill set.

Anyway I can't seem to desolder the cap off. I managed to get one side off but the otherside won't budge. I don't want to use hot air because am inexperienced and there are very very tiny smd components on the other side. What am I doing wrong?

What is this area for anyway?

⟐ Commented July 05, 2026 at 17:37 MST

⟐ Edited by author July 04, 2026 at 6:48 MST

Steamdeck has been feeling a little unresponsive lately then after I left it for a bit (picked up Elden rings finally) I noticed the entire lefts side was completely dead. All buttons, joystick, triggers, trackpad ect. I followed all the software resets to make sure then followed a guide here hoping that if I opened it up it would be a simple disconnect ribbon. As seen in the attached picture the C-L connector appears to have short circuited or something, I am not a tech savvy person and am unclear how to move forward. Would this require a while board replacement or something bigger, any advice on how to move forward or what I could do would be greatly appreciated!

have an J36 Ultra; it fell from my hand, and then a white line started appearing on the screen.

⟐ Edited July 03, 2026 at 1:49 MST

⟐ Commented June 30, 2026 at 23:41 MST

Diagnostic steps already taken:

1. PSU is confirmed working with 12V output.

2. 5V and 3.3V standby rails are present on the Southbridge board.

3. A faint mid-pitch hum (coil whine) is heard only when both main boards are connected via the SOC-1 ribbon cable.

4. With the SOC-1 cable connected, the connector on the Southbridge board (specifically the end of the connector further from the outer edge of the board) reaches temperatures over 135°F.

5. Flipping the SOC-1 cable results in the heat staying at the Southbridge connector, suggesting the short is on the Southbridge board or the connector itself rather than the cable.

6. Microscopic inspection of the connector and pins shows no visible debris, bridges, or bent pins.

Is there a known component failure (capacitor or diode) near the inner pins of the SOC-1 connector on the Southbridge board that would cause a standby short? Which voltage rail corresponds to those specific pins?

I put in new tmr sticks in my duelsense v2 controller. I accidentally stripped out the through hole for the middle pin on the right of the board but it came out whole so I took it and pushed it back in the hole. Now after fully soldering in the tmr stick that one is hard stuck to the left when trying to calibrate it.

⟐ Commented June 30, 2026 at 9:15 MST

I have a steamdeck LCD. After not using it for a few weeks i wanted to turn it on and play with it etc, the power LED comes on and fan turns, but no display.

Ive tried some guides I found about reseting firmware by holding down "..." and volume down button, it comes on, LED flashes but no display, even after waiting a few hours for this process to complete, I have also tried using a docking station to see if i get any display, now the problem is i dont know if the docking station i used is compatible with the steam deck, but it is a dell self powered docking station, dont want to spend the money if the problem lays elsewhere.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

⟐ Edited by author June 29, 2026 at 0:29 MST