⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 9:36 MST

⟐ Commented October 14, 2024 at 23:19 MST

UPDATE: The fridge is 7 years old. Also, the freezer is now at 2 and the fridge is at 63. So the temp of the freezer is moving in the right direction, but the fridge is definitely not.

I sure hope AB Cellars sees this. He was amazing when I posted about my clothes dryer.

ANOTHER UPDATE: The GE Technician just arrived. It's the freezer sensor (aka thermistor). I'm getting 50% off parts and labor, so my total cost is $146.77 (including the service call).

Thanks everyone for your help! Mayer... you nailed it. The evaporator coils were covered in ice.

⟐ Commented July 14, 2025 at 2:23 MST

⟐ Answered March 16, 2026 at 10:30 MST

code sa66 keeps coming up.

⟐ Edited July 19, 2025 at 6:23 MST

I called a local repair shop on the phone and they want to replace the defrost heater, but I'm not sure.

What's the problem cause and suggestions to fix it? Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented September 20, 2025 at 10:39 MST

Also, there are no leaks in the system. The coolant levels are normal. Does anyone have any ideas?

⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 9:34 MST

model: PSC23SG RB refrigerator. Woke up and found it totally not working. The top lights on the frig side were off and the bottom ones were on in the frig side. All lights were on in the freezer side. the upper control indicator would light up. When pushing the freezer control to 0 but it would just snap back to the room temp. When pushing the frig temp to 34 it would also snap back to room temp. Tried the immediate 15min chill setting but also did not work, Went to the back, took off lower panel to expose the compressoor and some fan that shot into some cyclinder shaped filter of sorts. It was loaded with dust. Cleaned it and went to fire it up the unit. After plugging it back in I opened the door, noticed all lights on and the refrigetator seemed to be working. It worked for about almost 7-10 mins with the freezer working but not the frig part. After 7 to 10 mins it would go back to that shut down mode with the upper lights off and lower frig light on. I would let the unit sit unplugged for a bit and I would repeat this process over and over again with same results.

One of my thoughts was to check to see if the coil was fouled up with dust but can't get at it. At least not from the rear. I'd like some advice on this before I try finding out how to check the coil. If someone thinks its the coil, then how do I get at it? Couldn't find anything on Youtube. 773-909-6255, 773-735-6400 Ed

⟐ Edited December 19, 2023 at 5:32 MST

@jayeff.

I finally ordered and have replaced the cold water reservoir. Upon removal of old reservoir it was filled up with slime/mold. The new reservoir seems to be performing great with nothing other than water coming out.

Thank you again for the advice and parts source.

⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 9:38 MST

However, now I noticed that the evaporator coil is covered with a substantial amount of frost - looks more like snow. I defrosted it once with a hair dryer and it was back in a couple of hours. So it seems there may be more of an issue that just the fan. Not sure what steps to take next. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

⟐ Edited December 19, 2023 at 5:35 MST

Any idea what I should check or will this require a technician before buying a new fridge?

⟐ Answered November 13, 2022 at 5:32 MST

My icemaker will not dump the ice. I just replaced the icemaker with a new one. It is getting the water and it freezes but will not dump the ice. I also changed the water filter. The water despenser works great and water is getting to the icemaker too. I can initiate the dump sequence and it will process the ice out but it will not do it automatically. There is nothing abstructing the flow of water or the arm that stops the cycle. Had the same problem with the old one that I just removed.

⟐ Edited March 11, 2024 at 9:53 MST

⟐ Edited December 19, 2023 at 5:37 MST

My 14 year-old GE Monogram side-by-side (built-in) refrigerator is not cooling properly on the fridge side. I have it set to 40 degrees, but it gets down to 31 degrees and is freezing the food.

I replaced two thermistors, but that did not resolve the issue. I am thinking perhaps the thermostat/temp control unit?

Unfortunately, I cannot find any manuals or videos pertaining to my particular model, so disassembly is tedious.

⟐ Answer edited May 17, 2024 at 12:32 MST

Refrigerator Model: GSHF6HGDBCWW.

Symptoms: Slow ice cube production, Ice cream melts although meats keep frozen.

Problem: Can’t adjust freezer temperature. When pressing warmer only adjusts to -2 from -9. Freezer is nowhere -9 degrees inside, actually hovers around 30 - 32 degrees when taking measurements at the ice maker level which may accounts for extremely slow ice cubes production. When checking again temperature freezer side always “defaults” to -9. Note: refrigerator side adjusts fine and is keeping temperature were set and the display is quite accurate.

Actions taken: replaced main control board (WR55X11080 ), both freezer side thermistors: one on top of the evaporator coil and the other in the freezer wall. Technician replaced compressor gas tube which was corroded and had leaked gas. The freezer problem happened long before compressor gas leak so it isn’t related.

Appreciate any ideas to fix this… Thxs!…

JSR:.

Jaime Santiago, jsrshaman@cs.com

⟐ Edited April 09, 2024 at 7:29 MST

I recently poked a hole (a pinch of hole) into my freezer while chipping away at the iceberg inside? Can is still function or make ice?

⟐ Commented November 24, 2022 at 2:37 MST

⟐ Edited December 27, 2023 at 15:54 MST

⟐ Commented December 30, 2025 at 12:40 MST

UPDATE: After my original post, I have new information. I noticed a block of cheese that was in the back of the deli drawer was partially frozen. When I looked behind the drawers, I saw ice on the back wall behind the deli drawer. I also learned that when the door is open, the fan that is behind that back panel (the other evaporator fan, I assume) does not run. When I press the door/light switch, the fan motor comes on but I don't really feel the air coming out of the vent slots. Could this be a case of the evaporator coils being frozen over? The temperature in the freezer is 0F and 40F in the fridge. At one point, the fridge side went up 41F but came back down to 40F and has been there since. Although the temperature display shows the same thing that it did previously, it now feels colder in the top part than it previously did at the same temperature reading. Where is the sensor taking the reading.

⟐ Answer edited May 17, 2024 at 9:33 MST

I’m confident it’s the compressor. I have previously replaced the startup capacitor and fixed this fridge. I could play audio for you and you’d hear it—a big clank when it starts up, a loud whirring while it’s running, and a clank when it shuts off. It’s still cooling fine though, so I have days / weeks to fix it.

It’s straightforward to access and has extra room, so I think just about any compressor would fit in there.

This is one that might work.

 What’s the budget way to do that? I called a random local shop and they said $900, but I feel like it’s just an hour or two of work for someone with the tools.

This refrigerator only cost $600 new, but I’m totally willing to spend up to (and maybe a little above that) to fix it. It would be more of a pain to get rid of this and buy a new one, get it to the house, etc. than to just swap the compressor.

Should I buy the tools and learn how to do it myself?

Related rant: why in the world are refrigerator compressor lines brazed in place? Couldn’t they use removable connectors like auto compressors have? Come on people, this is a mechanical failure part. The lifespan of a refrigerator shouldn’t be limited to the life of the compressor.

⟐ Answer edited January 03, 2025 at 12:50 MST