⟐ Commented May 07, 2026 at 5:39 MST

⟐ Commented May 07, 2026 at 2:55 MST

The temp is set at 37 for the fridge and 0 for the freezer.

I bought a couple of wifi temp monitors and they are both showing the same thing.

The fridge fluctuates between 37 and 55 and the freezer from -5 to +5 (even when the doors are closed for a long time).

Is this fluctuation normal ??? Should I be concerned about the hardware ?

Also, the digital readout on the door constantly says the actual temp is 37 even if the door is opened for a minute or 2. It never moves from 37.

⟐ Commented April 22, 2026 at 7:33 MST

The water dispenser has worked fine throughout all this, and I have an ice maker in the bottom freezer that has also worked properly throughout the door ice maker failures.

Periodically I can also hear the fridge sound like it is attempting to fill it with water, but no water is ever dispensed into the tray of the ice maker assembly.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what may be causing this and how to fix it?

⟐ Commented April 21, 2026 at 7:53 MST

refrigerator. We opened it up to find everything was defrosting. The fridge initially seemed unaffected, but after several hours also began to lose its temp. The fan inside the freezer blew foolish air, far from cold.

I pulled it out of the recessed area it's pushed into, took the cardboard panel off the back and found a thick layer of dust on the circular fan that blows on the compressor. I vacuumed all the dust and basically anything I could get at, along with suctioning the drainage tube to clear any blockages. Heard no clicking noises. It all still worked and ran, just no cold air.

On a side note, I looked for the radiator grating, the tubes that circulate the refrigerant, and it seems like they're incorporated into the fan, at least I could see it just underneath and possibly inside the fan. Don't know for sure.

I cleaned off the cardboard and the two vents placed inside the recessed area, there for air circulation. I also looked behind some panels to see if any plugs/connectors were burnt. Found none and made sure all plugs were secure. I then put it all back together.

It seemed to have no effect, I left the fridge out of its cave overnight and went to bed. I woke up this morning and it was working again. The fridge is cold, but the freezer might not be working at full capacity. The ice packs have yet to become rock solid again.

What are these issues indicative of? How did my freezer regain at least 75 to 80 percent of its capacity? I was hoping the particulars of my problem might narrow the scope of possible solutions.

Its a GE model GSH22JFXA WW

Thank you for reading through that mess.

⟐ Commented April 21, 2026 at 2:14 MST

⟐ Commented April 06, 2026 at 10:58 MST

⟐ Answered March 16, 2026 at 10:30 MST

The freezer fan works fine. There is no ice buildup anywhere. The condenser is clear of any debris or grime. I called an appliance guy who said it was likely a damper issue -- but this particular unit (Model GYE22GYNBFS) doesn't have a damper.

I'm at a loss.

⟐ Answer edited April 02, 2026 at 11:39 MST

Dear Sir or Madam,

I am experiencing a serious recurring issue with my GE Profile refrigerator, and I am looking for clear technical guidance.

Initially, the refrigerator was not freezing properly, and it was diagnosed that the evaporator fan was faulty. The fan was replaced, and after that repair the unit started freezing very well.

However, after several days of normal operation, excessive frost builds up in the freezer area (where ice is produced) and also on the interior back wall of the refrigerator compartment. When this happens, the refrigerator stops cooling, presumably because airflow is blocked by ice buildup behind the evaporator.

If I manually defrost the unit, it works correctly again for about 3–4 weeks, but then the exact same problem occurs again.

Based on this behavior, I strongly suspect a failure in the automatic defrost system (defrost heater, defrost thermostat/bimetal, temperature sensor/thermistor, or control board). Since the evaporator fan is new and the issue is cyclical, it does not appear to be an airflow or cooling-capacity problem.

I would greatly appreciate a proper technical diagnosis so I can guide the repair process correctly, as previous technicians have not been able to identify the root cause.

Thank you very much for your assistance.

Kind regards,

⟐ Commented February 03, 2026 at 20:54 MST

replaced board, and new evap fan but still doesnt spin. fridge seems to be cooling but obviously not evenly as the water distribution line freezes up because of settling cold.

oem which spun slowly before replacing board. i just put it back in and does not spin at all.

panasonic udqt26ge4 197d2039p006 wr60x10043 evap. 72903

aftermarket which does not spin at all after install.

amazon aftermarket udqt26ge4 1977d2039p013 wr60x10185 evap 622089zt

notes: i had to swap the temp sensor into aftermarket harness, so idk if this affects anything.

also took some voltage readings at the fridge side evap fan motor harness.

terminal open switch vclosed switch v

L1R1 0.8 0.7

L1R2 0.6 0.3

L1R3 15 15

L2R1 0.5 0.2

L2R2 0.6 .08

L2R3 15 14

L3R1 9 10

L3R2 9 7

L3R3 2 2

L1L2 2 0

L1L3 15 15

R1R2 0.9 0.8

R1R3 7 7

thank you for the help.

GE gss25jfpa ww

⟐ Answered January 24, 2026 at 7:17 MST

⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 23:11 MST

When I moved in to my new apartment, I was told my ice machine/water dispenser would occasionally leak and it was due to a manufacturer issue that could not be resolved. I have been in the apartment for nearly 3 months now and just recently thought to try to use it for ice. Nothing happened and no noises were made. I decided to open the freezer and take out the ice box with revealed the power switch(the thing at the top--sorry I don't know what it's called) and long behold, it was turned off. I turned it back on, gave it 24 hours to reset itself and noticed it wasn't leaking at this point. When I attempted to make ice, it made noise and I could hear the ice fall, but it would not drop into my cup. So I looked up and into it and noticed the flap thing would not open all the way to let the ice drop into my cup. I then stuck my fingers up into it and barely moved it towards me and all the ice that originally dropped into the dispenser, fell right out. The flap closes back just fine after the ice has fallen out but doesn't when there is ice held inside. I don't know much about appliances so I'm guessing it's something to do with the flap but I'm not 100% sure. Could someone please give me advise on what to do? I feel like this is fixable and the technicians here either didn't know how to do so and just turned it off and blamed it on the manufacturer. Help? Thanks!

⟐ Answer accepted January 22, 2026 at 13:30 MST

Also, there are no leaks in the system. The coolant levels are normal. Does anyone have any ideas?

⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 9:34 MST

⟐ Commented December 30, 2025 at 12:40 MST

⟐ Commented December 15, 2025 at 1:33 MST

⟐ Answered November 30, 2025 at 18:52 MST

⟐ Commented November 17, 2025 at 17:24 MST

About 2 weeks ago we noticed that my refrigerator wasn't cooling very well. It was freezing anything we put in the climate control drawer but nothing up higher was cooling off. I removed the climate control drawer and noticed ice build up but even after clearing it out it still seems to be an issue.

I pushed the Water, Crushed and Cubed button and ran tech job 0000 and the codes that show up after "read" are 0105, 07lo, 000d. I read in the tech sheet that 0105 is condenser fan is not reaching speed but the 07lo and 000d are confusing me. Does anyone know how to properly interpret these codes and what I can do?

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Answer edited January 22, 2026 at 13:36 MST

⟐ Edited November 04, 2025 at 22:33 MST

What could be the culprit?

Is it the dispenser display control board that needs to be replaced?

I don't have the water line connected but i don't think that should stop me from selecting the water button.

⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 9:29 MST