⟐ Commented February 14, 2026 at 15:50 MST

⟐ Commented April 02, 2026 at 1:30 MST

⟐ Edited December 19, 2023 at 5:25 MST

⟐ Commented February 12, 2024 at 6:49 MST

⟐ Answer accepted December 18, 2023 at 13:21 MST

⟐ Commented September 19, 2024 at 4:05 MST

⟐ Edited March 11, 2024 at 10:01 MST

Model No. PFSS2MIXA SS. Serial# 311204

It randomly warms up to temperatures as high as 68 degrees and has maintained such temperatures from half a day to three and a half days straight. All the while, the contents of the freezer have never defrosted. The freezer fluctuates between -8 and as warm as 28 degrees.

Technicians from a private company and GE appliance (most recently) have come out to service this appliance six times but the problem continues.

The first tech checked the back of the unit briefly and said everything looked fine. He later returned several times and replaced the control panel, the motherboard and fiddled with the oval shaped vent on the upper left side of the refrigerator. When that did not work, they refused to return and said there was nothing else they could do. Next, a GE Appliance tech took apart the freezer and replaced a thermistor inside the back panel. However, two days later, the temperatures were again too warm for several days.

He then advised us to keep large bottles of frozen water in the freezer to help prevent the entire appliance from getting too hot during defrosting cycles in the freezer, as not keeping enough solidly frozen items in the freezer may be causing the refrigerator to reach and maintain excessively high temperatures.

This ongoing issue has lead me to keep a temperature log and a photo journal of the temperature readings on the top panel because this appliance has appeared to run correctly all but once during previous repair appointments.

JUST THIS MONTH

Tech replaced demistor in the freezer 8/5

8/6 -4 and 50 degrees at 8:30am, -1 and 43 degrees at noon, 0 and 38 degrees at 3pm

8/7 2 and 39 degrees at 7am

8/8 maintained at setting (0 and 37 degrees)

8/9 maintained

8/10 -1 and 46 degrees 7pm

8/11 -6 and 54 degrees 2am

8/12 1 and 50 degrees 7am

8/13 0 and 60 degrees 3pm

8/14 -2 and 37 degrees 8am, 10 and 44 degrees at 2pm, 11 and 49 degrees at 4:45pm, 9 and 56 degrees at 7 pm

TODAY -2 and 36 degrees at 7a.m., -1 and 38 degrees at 8:30 am and, per the trend, I am sure it will just continue to climb higher as the hours pass. I can hear the appliance running but there are many times when it is dead silent.

All of the door seals are clean and not cracked, there is no dust around the bottom or back of the unit either.

The TurboCool feature does not seem to do anything at all.

During the first week of July the refrigerator section kept at 60+degrees for three and a half days before automatically cooling down to the set range of 0 and 37 degrees on its own.

At times when the unit does run within appropriate temperature ranges, the food in both refrigerator drawers freeze, as well as food kept on the middle shelves ( container of milk frozen solid, an onion and other veggies).

We no longer store raw foods in here because we cannot trust that items will be kept cold.

⟐ Commented October 09, 2025 at 12:54 MST

⟐ Edited December 18, 2023 at 13:24 MST

PYE22KSKFSS

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

Freezer was working fine, but refrigerator temp had climbed up to 58 degrees - temp set at 36 (I have a sensorpush in it to monitor performance after an issue a few years ago). Tech came out and replaced the FAN DC FF EVAP (Fresh food drawer evap fan). He ran Turbo Cool which drew the temp down to -3 before it settled into a range between 57.8 and 31.9. Previously it was very steady. He came back out and ran diagnostics again, no error codes. He said I didn't have enough stuff in it to work properly. We loaded it up with items and pattern still continues. Suggestions?

⟐ Edited December 18, 2023 at 13:24 MST

I am having an issue with the top part intermittently not cooling. I would say that 80-90% of the time it is cooling properly.

Occasionally, I will open the top and it will not be cool and there will be condensation on pretty much everything. If I reset the cooling unit in the settings or unplug the refrigerator, it kicks back on and cools properly. It occasionally requires me to do this twice.

The freezer part has never had a single issue and is cooling properly at all times.

I've read through a few other posts and it SEEMS like it would be the Fresh Food Evaporator Fan, part 716 here:

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/p...

But, I am not totally certain given that it works most of the time. Is there a way to test this further to ensure that it is the evaporator fan?

Is it likely that it would be something else, or is it a very good chance it is this fan?

⟐ Edited December 19, 2023 at 5:47 MST

1. It never comes to the set temperature. Generally it is around 4 degrees higher than the set temperature. Is this normal for a fridge? I've never measured the internal temperature of a fridge before.
2. I can live with problem 1 by reducing it to the lowest, 34, but this is the most unacceptable problem. The left side of the refrigerator compartment is about 4 degrees higher than the right side. I've even removed all the items to make sure air flow is not blocked.
   
   My observations: There is a long narrow vent on the back top of the compartment blowing cold air. I can feel it blows a strong stream of cold air on the right side and very little on the left side.
   
   It seems this is the cause of the temperature difference. Are there 2 fans, one for each side? Or there is only one fan and some dampers are controlling the air flow?

Also, I was trying to find a service and repair manual for this model and could not find any. Where can I find a service manual for this?

Besides these problems, the freezer and the Temperature Select Zone compartments are fine.

It is indeed under warranty, but if the wrong technician comes, I'm worried it may create new problems.

Any help would be appreciated.

⟐ Commented March 25, 2025 at 0:49 MST

⟐ Answer edited January 23, 2026 at 9:35 MST

⟐ Edited December 18, 2023 at 13:44 MST

⟐ Edited March 11, 2024 at 9:47 MST

⟐ Edited March 11, 2024 at 10:23 MST

original my ice maker stopped producing ice because the ice box fan failed and the ice box in the fridge wasn’t getting cooled enough. Replaced that part and now I can’t get water to the ice box.

Working items.

Ice machine will make ice cubes with water added manually

water line from solenoid to ice maker clear. (Checked with air compressor light pressure)

Water dispenser works with adequate pressure

Ice maker solenoid passed ohms check and also (ran jumper wires from water solenoid to ice maker solenoid. Request water from the door and water went to the ice machine.)

It seems like the logic or the ice machine is not requesting water because it’s not opening the solenoid.

Any ideas?

Thank you

⟐ Commented July 11, 2024 at 18:26 MST

⟐ Answer edited February 16, 2026 at 13:55 MST

It's not possible to describe the noise with words, but a recording might help:

Youtube clip

This noise seems to be coming from behind the bottom of upper compartment, above the freezer.

⟐ Edited May 02, 2024 at 14:28 MST

I also can feel the compressor vibrating so I assume it's running (then again, what do I know). The temperature settings are both on 9 and I might as well mention that there was some water underneath it when I moved it out as well. I'm thinking that maybe there's some frozen coils I can't see or something. *Update* Checked the coils on the inside and there's no frost. Maybe it's a thermostat problem?

Thanks for your help

⟐ Edited November 26, 2025 at 17:05 MST