⟐ Commented July 01, 2026 at 7:35 MST

My refrigerator is a Frigidaire model # FFTR2021TS5. It is a top freezer/bottom fridge combo. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed the fridge being warmer than usual but just didn’t have time to immediately deal with it.

After some googling, I pulled off the back wall to the freezer and saw that that the air channel/air divertor leading from the cooling system to the fridge below was stuffed with ice. I got rid ice blockage which created the space for cold air to travel down and was hoping this would be the ultimate fix. After re-installing the back wall and putting everything back into the freezer, I felt the center vent in the fridge where air is supposed to travel down and escape through the vents but the air flow wasn’t nearly as significant as I hoped. I closed the fridge for a day to hope time would allow cold air to gather. The fridge was/is colder but not to the degree I thought it would be, especially since I adjusted the temperature colder than the “recommended” setting.

Today (about one week after trouble shooting), I noticed the fridge warmer yet again. Removing the back wall to the freezer, the air divertor was once again blocked with ice. However one difference is the cooling fins had ice on them whereas last week they did not. I don’t know if this means anything.

So, the freezer definitely works - All the food is still frozen, I can hear the motor run and there is still an audible sound when I open the freezer door. Can anyone please give advice on what might be happening here? What do you think I need to replace? Do I need to check anther area of the fridge for a blockage? Do you see anything concerning from the pictures of the back wall I posted? This fridge was just over $500 and I am hoping to avoid spending 1/3rd of the cost or more to call someone out to repair it.

If you are reading, thank you for at least considering helping me.

⟐ Edited June 27, 2026 at 23:50 MST

Recently it stopped making ice again. Took it back apart, Defrost area was not frozen over. Some slight frost on the condenser tubes, but nothing else. Melted it all, also blew the air onto the feed line port (where it comes into cabinet). This resolved the issue for a couple days.

No ice again, did some checking and found that the water inlet assembly could be going out, letting water drip, which was freezing up. Replaced this, and at same time cleaned all the dust off the coils and such. Also replaced both the filter in basement (in line with feed) and the one in fridge. This worked for several weeks, but yesterday no ice again.

I'm going to check for iced over again, but where else should I look?

⟐ Commented June 25, 2026 at 17:44 MST

⟐ Commented June 22, 2026 at 7:27 MST

I can't find any documentation that says to what temperature the "recommended" settings should cool the unit.

⟐ Commented June 07, 2026 at 10:13 MST

⟐ Answer accepted May 11, 2026 at 15:35 MST

⟐ Commented April 27, 2026 at 18:16 MST

The first time this happened, we assumed it was caused by our leaving the door open; however, I don't think we have left it open this time. Any advice on what may be causing this and how we could prevent it? It happened in ~3 months this time.

⟐ Commented April 23, 2026 at 2:18 MST

⟐ Commented April 11, 2026 at 16:14 MST

Finally got up to my Daughers and measured the Voltage of the Red and Black, and it was 15.73 Volts, so that was good. Then I installed the eBay purchase of control board 5304527931, that looks like mine, but bought using that plastic case # on the back...8076419. So I have replaced the ice chute, now drops ice or water, and tongue springs back into position. And control panel NOW lights up, where as last 2 weeks has been black. Although you can see the missing parts of the LED #'s. But fantastic... Just to see the screen lit, and ice and water on demand working again. I guess instead of buying a $27 8076419 control board, I should invest a little more in a 5304527931. Thanks for the help. Also, still not sure why control board has that LED strip, but no wires going to it, so that when in use, would light up the water cup or container... But fantastic day, here....

Haven't checked for 12 Volts DC at the J4 Red and Black, as the Refrigerator in Question is 40 miles from me, and I always like to have a few ideas in line before taking the drive. Will get back with voltage asap.

Added 3 shots of under the black plastic on the control panel, showing any numbers visible. Imagine only one Square #2 Screw head holding black plastic on. really easy. Funny, when I search online for the Frigidaire 242209710 control board, I see 85% of them are attached to another larger white board. Must be a ton of different boards, thru the years.

I was working on the ICE Chute as the spring had broke to return the little hang down flap and I made the mistake (I guess) of reattaching the control panel without unplugging the Refrigerator. I heard a DING or some sort of audible tone, and after all together, the screen is dead, and the right side LIGHTS are out. The freezer light are ok, and I replaced the bulbs on right side but still dead. And the freezer and fridge are still keeping cold, I bought two thermometers to be able to tell. I have replaced the control panel and the ice maker chute with eBay purchases and still dead screen, and dead lights on fridge side. You think the bottom control board? In searching the web I see two different videos of taking off the control panel, and when they do , there are only 3 plugs going into it. Mine had 4? Maybe before we moved into Condo, it had some work done?? My image is the bottom. Maybe different model?? But will know more when I get back to the frig and take a reading at that J4 3 wire plug for voltage. Model # picture added. TY

Added a closeup picture of control board plastic back. It had a number on it of 8076419, not sure how it compares to the number 5304527931, I bought one using the number 8076419.... might have been a mistake

⟐ Commented April 11, 2026 at 6:01 MST

⟐ Commented April 01, 2026 at 7:04 MST

I bought a used 242270101 off eBay, thus the pictures of the working spring, but after install it will work for a while, then when asking for ice, I can hear a small hum, but no ice. If I open the door, and play move the dark black flap that covers the hole, it will work again, and deliver ICE. So I can either buy another Dispenser 242270101. Fix this one, but not sure what is not working correctly and what gets fixed when I move the black flap covering the hole, Or buy a spring to replace in my original Dispenser 242270101.

I think I should be able to figure out how to install a spring if I could find it available... As I took pics of the spring of the one I bought , but have to wiggle black cover flap... Is spring for this part available?

Since I have a temporary Ice Chute, that works, but have to reach in and play with black closing damper thing, then ice will work, other wise just a small noise, and nothing. So I decided to work on original Ice Chute device that had no Compression spring on one side, and go to the other side and add a SPRING, using a drill, Small Screws and Spring... Will install and see if works as new, when next visit to her Condo.

⟐ Edited by author March 06, 2026 at 11:56 MST

•My freezer is cooling, albeit not to the ideal temperature, and my refrigerator is not getting cold. The freezer stays around 11-19 degrees, the fridge stays around 75-78.

•the refrigerator temp is displaying SY, freezer temp displaying EF which I’ve read is an evaporator fan issue but also could lead to control board??

•I unplugged the fridge for 48 hours to see if when it turned back on it pointed to the defrost portion being the problem. It still didn’t work!!

•I removed the evaporator fan cover and the fan is able to be turned by hand but it’s not turning on its own. I did see two small 1 second periods where it tried to turn on it’s on but it’s definitely not turning consistently.

•the freezer light wasn’t turning on so I exchanged a fridge bulb with the freezer bulb to see if it was burned out or more of a control board issue and that light now turns on but I plugged the original freezer bulb in the fridge bulb spot and it works there too??

•the refrigerator “chirps” excessively when it’s turned on.

•it occasionally makes loud POPs and knocks. Sometimes the pops are as loud as a gun shot it seems but they range. It has done this for the duration of us owning it, so we’re not concerned about that if it did the cooling part. Just adding so I don’t miss any diagnostic details.

•the ice maker broke a month after we purchased the fridge (7 years ago) and we didn’t have it fixed because we had a stand alone ice maker. I only add this detail so that I can give all of the problems to see if they add up together. (That’s broken now too so it feels like I’m in an appliance graveyard.)

•the high temp alert beeps more than it seems it should even when the fridge is “working.” (Potential diagnostic detail)

please help,

I would like to know for sure about the evaporator fan before replacing it as I’ve read that sometimes it can end up not being the issue. I also don’t have a multimeter but could purchase one if it would help me greatly. Also, I am not a professional appliance repairman, but I have been able to fix our washer and dryer thanks to YouTube and google. I am confident I can fix almost anything but also am stay at home mom trying not to get electrocuted.

⟐ Commented March 06, 2026 at 1:51 MST

⟐ Commented March 05, 2026 at 7:51 MST

⟐ Answered February 24, 2026 at 0:39 MST

⟐ Answer edited February 08, 2026 at 1:29 MST

Frigidaire gallery FG4H2272UF

⟐ Edited by author February 05, 2026 at 20:17 MST

Refrigerator Damper operating properly.

Evaporator Coils are frosty cold from top to bottom.

Both Fans are running.

Evaporator Coils are not Freezing up with ice.

Refrigerator seems to be constantly running.

All the door seals are great.

Ice maker dispenser door is shutting.

freezer will not get below 12 degrees, and seems to hover at around 20.

Any ideas?