⟐ Commented April 27, 2026 at 18:16 MST

The first time this happened, we assumed it was caused by our leaving the door open; however, I don't think we have left it open this time. Any advice on what may be causing this and how we could prevent it? It happened in ~3 months this time.

⟐ Commented April 23, 2026 at 2:18 MST

Recently it stopped making ice again. Took it back apart, Defrost area was not frozen over. Some slight frost on the condenser tubes, but nothing else. Melted it all, also blew the air onto the feed line port (where it comes into cabinet). This resolved the issue for a couple days.

No ice again, did some checking and found that the water inlet assembly could be going out, letting water drip, which was freezing up. Replaced this, and at same time cleaned all the dust off the coils and such. Also replaced both the filter in basement (in line with feed) and the one in fridge. This worked for several weeks, but yesterday no ice again.

I'm going to check for iced over again, but where else should I look?

⟐ Answer edited April 23, 2026 at 2:03 MST

⟐ Commented April 11, 2026 at 16:14 MST

Finally got up to my Daughers and measured the Voltage of the Red and Black, and it was 15.73 Volts, so that was good. Then I installed the eBay purchase of control board 5304527931, that looks like mine, but bought using that plastic case # on the back...8076419. So I have replaced the ice chute, now drops ice or water, and tongue springs back into position. And control panel NOW lights up, where as last 2 weeks has been black. Although you can see the missing parts of the LED #'s. But fantastic... Just to see the screen lit, and ice and water on demand working again. I guess instead of buying a $27 8076419 control board, I should invest a little more in a 5304527931. Thanks for the help. Also, still not sure why control board has that LED strip, but no wires going to it, so that when in use, would light up the water cup or container... But fantastic day, here....

Haven't checked for 12 Volts DC at the J4 Red and Black, as the Refrigerator in Question is 40 miles from me, and I always like to have a few ideas in line before taking the drive. Will get back with voltage asap.

Added 3 shots of under the black plastic on the control panel, showing any numbers visible. Imagine only one Square #2 Screw head holding black plastic on. really easy. Funny, when I search online for the Frigidaire 242209710 control board, I see 85% of them are attached to another larger white board. Must be a ton of different boards, thru the years.

I was working on the ICE Chute as the spring had broke to return the little hang down flap and I made the mistake (I guess) of reattaching the control panel without unplugging the Refrigerator. I heard a DING or some sort of audible tone, and after all together, the screen is dead, and the right side LIGHTS are out. The freezer light are ok, and I replaced the bulbs on right side but still dead. And the freezer and fridge are still keeping cold, I bought two thermometers to be able to tell. I have replaced the control panel and the ice maker chute with eBay purchases and still dead screen, and dead lights on fridge side. You think the bottom control board? In searching the web I see two different videos of taking off the control panel, and when they do , there are only 3 plugs going into it. Mine had 4? Maybe before we moved into Condo, it had some work done?? My image is the bottom. Maybe different model?? But will know more when I get back to the frig and take a reading at that J4 3 wire plug for voltage. Model # picture added. TY

Added a closeup picture of control board plastic back. It had a number on it of 8076419, not sure how it compares to the number 5304527931, I bought one using the number 8076419.... might have been a mistake

⟐ Commented April 11, 2026 at 6:01 MST

⟐ Commented April 01, 2026 at 7:04 MST

I bought a used 242270101 off eBay, thus the pictures of the working spring, but after install it will work for a while, then when asking for ice, I can hear a small hum, but no ice. If I open the door, and play move the dark black flap that covers the hole, it will work again, and deliver ICE. So I can either buy another Dispenser 242270101. Fix this one, but not sure what is not working correctly and what gets fixed when I move the black flap covering the hole, Or buy a spring to replace in my original Dispenser 242270101.

I think I should be able to figure out how to install a spring if I could find it available... As I took pics of the spring of the one I bought , but have to wiggle black cover flap... Is spring for this part available?

Since I have a temporary Ice Chute, that works, but have to reach in and play with black closing damper thing, then ice will work, other wise just a small noise, and nothing. So I decided to work on original Ice Chute device that had no Compression spring on one side, and go to the other side and add a SPRING, using a drill, Small Screws and Spring... Will install and see if works as new, when next visit to her Condo.

⟐ Edited by author March 06, 2026 at 11:56 MST

•My freezer is cooling, albeit not to the ideal temperature, and my refrigerator is not getting cold. The freezer stays around 11-19 degrees, the fridge stays around 75-78.

•the refrigerator temp is displaying SY, freezer temp displaying EF which I’ve read is an evaporator fan issue but also could lead to control board??

•I unplugged the fridge for 48 hours to see if when it turned back on it pointed to the defrost portion being the problem. It still didn’t work!!

•I removed the evaporator fan cover and the fan is able to be turned by hand but it’s not turning on its own. I did see two small 1 second periods where it tried to turn on it’s on but it’s definitely not turning consistently.

•the freezer light wasn’t turning on so I exchanged a fridge bulb with the freezer bulb to see if it was burned out or more of a control board issue and that light now turns on but I plugged the original freezer bulb in the fridge bulb spot and it works there too??

•the refrigerator “chirps” excessively when it’s turned on.

•it occasionally makes loud POPs and knocks. Sometimes the pops are as loud as a gun shot it seems but they range. It has done this for the duration of us owning it, so we’re not concerned about that if it did the cooling part. Just adding so I don’t miss any diagnostic details.

•the ice maker broke a month after we purchased the fridge (7 years ago) and we didn’t have it fixed because we had a stand alone ice maker. I only add this detail so that I can give all of the problems to see if they add up together. (That’s broken now too so it feels like I’m in an appliance graveyard.)

•the high temp alert beeps more than it seems it should even when the fridge is “working.” (Potential diagnostic detail)

please help,

I would like to know for sure about the evaporator fan before replacing it as I’ve read that sometimes it can end up not being the issue. I also don’t have a multimeter but could purchase one if it would help me greatly. Also, I am not a professional appliance repairman, but I have been able to fix our washer and dryer thanks to YouTube and google. I am confident I can fix almost anything but also am stay at home mom trying not to get electrocuted.

⟐ Commented March 06, 2026 at 1:51 MST

⟐ Commented March 05, 2026 at 7:51 MST

⟐ Answered February 24, 2026 at 0:39 MST

⟐ Answer edited February 08, 2026 at 1:29 MST

Frigidaire gallery FG4H2272UF

⟐ Edited by author February 05, 2026 at 20:17 MST

Refrigerator Damper operating properly.

Evaporator Coils are frosty cold from top to bottom.

Both Fans are running.

Evaporator Coils are not Freezing up with ice.

Refrigerator seems to be constantly running.

All the door seals are great.

Ice maker dispenser door is shutting.

freezer will not get below 12 degrees, and seems to hover at around 20.

Any ideas?

Our Frigidaire Gallery 3 dr fridge FGHN2866PFHA is not cooling at thefresh food area. The freezer is running fine.

So far, we have check the following:

• the air damper to the fresh food side is not stuck but no air come out.
• the evaporation fan inside the freezer was not moving. But start moving again once defrosted a little.
• The evaporator and the wires are a bit ice up
• The heater around the coil is not working
• Tested continuity of the heater circuit is it is 00000
• Tested the thermal cut out circuit continuity and it is 0000
• Tested the purple /Ban(we cant tell what color it is as it is faded) wire connect to the heater and the thermal cut out and continuity is OL.
• Tested the electronic control Board at the back and continuity has reading

So far, we are thinking it's the purple/ban wire is the problem that cause the heater to stop working. But we cant figure out how to change that wire.

Can anyone give us some advice? Thank you so much.

⟐ Answer edited February 03, 2026 at 0:54 MST

⟐ Answer edited February 17, 2026 at 11:44 MST

I’m afraid if I don’t remedy the issue soon, the handles may completely detach.  But it seems to me the only two fixes would be to either remove the inside of the doors to get access to the pins the handles are attached to from the interior of the door so I can tighten them from the inside, or maybe glue the pins with something like JB Weld. I really do not want to attempt to remove all the plastic shelving on the inside of the doors as I can damage them very easily.  I was hoping to at least hand-tighten the pins from the outside, but they just loosely spin.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you very much!

⟐ Edited January 31, 2026 at 17:32 MST

⟐ Answered January 29, 2026 at 2:38 MST

Ice Maker is not filling with water. Replaced water valve and confirmed water line not frozen/blocked. Ice Maker "on/off" lever moved back and forth. Fridge unplugged and replugged in to reset. No change.

What else could it be?

⟐ Answer accepted January 22, 2026 at 12:25 MST