⟐ Commented July 13, 2026 at 18:53 MST

I decided to try to fix the SteelSeries Arctis 7 (2019 Edition) wireless headphones.

The microUSB charging connector was broken and I couldn't charge the headphones.

The connector broke off from the PCB and caused some damage there. I gave up on soldering a new connector in advance, I decided to just use two wires for charging only.

When I opened the headphones, I immediately put a new battery in them - Maybe I didn't do that smartly because I did two things at once.

I soldered the wires where the connector was and applied hot glue around it so the wires wouldn't break right away.

First day - headphones looked fine. New battery seemed to be charging (LED gradually changed color from yellow to green).

test a few hours of operation - no problems.

The next day - the headphones won't turn on.

They only turn on when they are connected to the charger. When I disconnect them from the charger, they turn off after a few seconds and won't turn on. I tried the HW reset button.

I don't know if it's a problem with the new battery or a repair on the connector. It seems strange to me that they worked on the first day.
My main question:

The first day when I was soldering the wires for charging, I momentarily mixed up the polarity of +5V.

So I connected the charger with the polarity reversed, but after I realized it and put it in correctly, the headphones worked and I did the test for a few hours from battery.

Do you think the damage caused by reversed polarity would only become apparent the next day?

Do you have any tips on what I can try, let's say in amateur conditions?

Currently, the battery voltage is 4.1 V. They won't turn on unless I plug them into the charger. Then I can turn them on.

When they are connected to the charger, I can turn them on and pair them with the PC and they work - but they are not "wireless" then.

Thank you for any response, I hope you are doing well and have a lot of success with your work on YouTube.

Adam

https://carrera-toys.com/en/collections/...

⟐ Commented July 13, 2026 at 1:12 MST

I have a X Rocker gaming chair without the bluetooth. Chair has always worked fine, I stopped using it for a few months and now the audio only outputs through the subwoofer and really distorted. I have removed the circuit board and I can't see any ruptured caps or burn marks on it. I'm not experienced with circuit board but I do know circuits and most of the components on here. If anyone can help diagnose it, it would be greatly appreciated. I can't find any pictures online of my exact chair but mine has 3 speakers. I have tried different outlets, audio cables and devices to output audio.

⟐ Commented July 12, 2026 at 20:02 MST

There is also heavy corrosion or debris near the power transistors and surrounding resistors (including a 1W10R resistor).

I need help identifying what caused this failure and what the best approach is for cleaning and repairing the board. Specifically:

What is the likely source of the brown debris (insect nesting, capacitor leak, or just dust)?

How can I identify the burned connector to find a replacement?

What other components should I test that are commonly linked to this type of failure in Dixon amplifiers?

I have a multimeter and am comfortable with basic soldering

⟐ Commented July 12, 2026 at 7:28 MST

I've already tried a factory reset, unplugging everything, and re-pairing — nothing worked. I suspect a small component on the board might have failed.

The soundbar can still connect via Wi‑Fi or Bluetooth to my phone, and the app detects it without any issues. But without the subwoofer, it loses half its purpose, and it's a shame to throw away such an expensive piece of gear.

Has anyone experienced the same issue or has any idea what could be causing this? I haven't been able to find a repair center in my city yet.

Thanks in advance for any help!

⟐ Edited July 12, 2026 at 8:15 MST

⟐ Commented July 11, 2026 at 21:09 MST

⟐ Commented July 10, 2026 at 20:15 MST

My TV suddenly started displaying vertical colored lines across the entire screen, mostly white and black. There is no visible crack, impact mark, or external damage to the panel. The TV was working normally before the issue appeared.

TV powers on normally.

The backlight appears to be working.

The entire screen is covered with vertical lines and distorted colors.

No visible physical damage to the screen.

The issue appeared suddenly during normal use.

Power cycling the TV did not resolve the problem.

All cables and external devices have been checked and disconnected.

⟐ Commented July 09, 2026 at 16:30 MST

Translation

One of the earbuds isn't working

⟐ Answer edited July 09, 2026 at 8:04 MST

⟐ Commented July 08, 2026 at 21:44 MST

⟐ Edited by author July 08, 2026 at 19:53 MST

I have physically opened the earbud to inspect it. What should I look for inside that could cause a total loss of sound after a drop? Are there specific ribbon cables or solder joints for the speaker driver that are known to fail? Any advice on how to test the speaker driver or reconnect it would be appreciated.

I have already verified that:

1. The battery connector is firmly seated on the motherboard.

2. The original battery still works, confirming the speaker's internal hardware is likely okay.

3. I have attempted a factory reset (Volume Down + Power) for over 30 seconds with the new battery installed, but there was no tone and no change in behavior.

Has anyone successfully gotten a third-party or iFixit replacement battery to work in the Hyperboom? Is there a specific "handshake" or firmware step required for the BMS to accept a non-OEM battery?

⟐ Commented July 07, 2026 at 17:30 MST

⟐ Commented July 07, 2026 at 1:13 MST