Hi everyone,
I have a standard PS5 DualSense (not the Edge) and I need to replace the white 6-pin mic connector on the mainboard.
I found a replacement part that is listed for the DualSense Edge.
Does anyone know if the white 6-pin socket on the Edge is the same (same pitch and pinout) as the one on the standard DualSense?
Has anyone tried this?
https://modchip.gr/gaming/antallaktika-p...

⟐ Edited by author February 26, 2026 at 6:50 MST

⟐ Answered February 02, 2026 at 15:44 MST

⟐ Answer accepted February 02, 2026 at 13:33 MST

⟐ Answered January 29, 2026 at 8:59 MST

Edit,ive soldered them back,but the controller,still blinks yellow twice n turns off,it's not also detected on PC,any fix?

⟐ Commented January 11, 2026 at 22:03 MST

Today I cleaned the potentiometers because of the left stick drift and then the problem happened.

While dissasembly and assembly I checked not to pinch the ribbons, the red, black, green and yellow wires are soldered correctly, everything seems fine but the %#*@ thing does not work. I reasoldered those wires a second time and checked with a multimiter, it seems fine. I also checked the ribbons from the adapting triggers, also everything ok.

Please help.

⟐ Answered January 04, 2026 at 8:10 MST

I’m dealing with a PS5 DualSense controller (BDM-020) that has a persistent issue with the R2 trigger input being stuck "on", even when no trigger or flex cable is connected.

Here’s a full breakdown:

• R2 is always registered as pressed, even without the flex cable or trigger module connected.
• When I reconnect the bumper flex cable, R1 works, but R2 remains constantly active.
• The actual R2 trigger module works fine on other controllers.
• I also tested other working trigger modules on this board – same problem: R2 stuck.
• I noticed that the pins of the flex cable seem to bend slightly when inserting the cable inside the FPC connector (trigger flex slot), which might suggest mechanical damage to the connector.

• Mainboard: BDM-020

• Has anyone encountered R2 input being stuck "on" at the board level, even with no flex cable?
• Could this be caused by damage to the FPC connector, e.g. shorted or internally bridged pins?
• Is it possible to replace the trigger FPC connector or clean/fix individual pins?
• Any specific points I should probe with a multimeter to isolate the issue?

I’d love to hear any suggestions – I’d prefer to repair this board if possible instead of scrapping it.

Thanks a lot in advance!

⟐ Commented November 07, 2025 at 3:25 MST

Interesting result, so after the hall effect sticks were soldered in, this is what happens: (it alternates between the L2 R2 triggers being pressed and sticks going up-left and back again)

When the PS button is pressed, the blue lights come on and flashes. When connecting to a laptop, all the buttons seem to work, with the white light coming on indicating the controller is connected however, every now and then you hear a click coming from the L2 and R2 triggers. The sticks seem to be rapidly inputting up-left and right-down inputs and the L2 and R2 buttons seem to be cycling between on/off even though hardware-wise they feel fine and weren't touched in the process (the motherboard was completely removed and separated from the rest of the controller when removing and installing the hall effect sticks).

Also when attempting to connect the controller to a PS5, you get three orange light flashes.

This is the state of the motherboard - it seems a couple of these ribbon connector ports melted a little during the install process (front mic and L1/2 connector) (both do still fit the ribbon cables just about) - I have a feeling these may be causing it but wanted to see if anyone had any other suggestions/thoughts?

UPDATE: Ok so the ribbon connector port for the front mic actually fell off, it seemed when it melted, the solder connection also got loose too:

No real change to the symptoms as a result of this port falling off - seems like this might be the primary cause?

⟐ Commented September 04, 2025 at 23:12 MST

⟐ Commented August 11, 2025 at 8:15 MST

⟐ Answer edited July 07, 2025 at 22:33 MST

English: My controller suddenly stopped responding. It won't charge, whether via USB or docking, and it won't turn on either.

⟐ Answered June 16, 2025 at 0:11 MST

⟐ Answered June 14, 2025 at 13:31 MST

Recently replaced my joysticks with tmr ones. The joysticks work. I know I have the correct order on the wires but the haptic motors not longer function. Any advice on how I might troubleshoot or narrow down what is the problem?

⟐ Commented May 30, 2025 at 6:08 MST

⟐ Answered May 27, 2025 at 1:12 MST

I’m facing a serious issue while repairing two game controllers with BDM-010 and BDM-020 boards. I want to describe the situation in detail in hopes someone has faced something similar and can offer advice or solutions.

Controller 1 (BDM-020 board):
After connecting the batteries, one battery immediately starts blinking repeatedly (3 times in a cycle).
After cleaning, there was a short circuit somewhere, and now it blinks continuously without stopping when connected via USB.
There were glitches — the LED backlight sometimes flickered bright and dim, and the right trigger vibration motor activated spontaneously.

Controller 2 (BDM-010 board):
When connected via USB, it also blinks 3 times and then stops.
I re-soldered the 3D sticks (TMD Genful), after which it stopped being recognized by PC and PS5. The desoldering and soldering were done carefully without overheating. It worked before but had heavy drift issues.
One stick was sticking — it didn’t always return to the zero position, as if it was stuck. Possibly flux got inside the stick during soldering. Later, yellow liquid was coming out from under the trigger.
I cleaned it with medical and technical alcohol, after which the stick started to “click,” but after some time it stuck again.

Now I’ve removed both sticks, but the board still doesn’t boot properly; it blinks 3 times when connected to USB and then stops.

I’ve been checking continuity from ground, USB, and the IC — I suspect some circuits are damaged or shorted.
Resistance measurements and continuity tests on the board haven’t given clear results yet.

Questions and help needed:

• Has anyone encountered this 3-blink error and complete failure to initialize after resoldering sticks?
• What are the main circuits and contacts I should test and check on BDM-010 and BDM-020 boards?
• How can I properly test the batteries if one of them immediately starts blinking upon connection and the other doesn’t respond at all?
• Any tips on repairing the ICs or soldering on these boards without causing permanent damage?

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

⟐ Marked as duplicate May 24, 2025 at 7:29 MST

The controller works perfectly besides from that!

Tried resetting the controller didn't work. Tried cleaning the surface and get some isopropyl alcohol under the X-button, didn't do it correctly but still the controller didn't work.

Called some local repair shops, some responded that I just throw it in the garbage.

What might be the problem? What might be the cause? and how to fixit?

The controller is new (2 months old) I'm out of the US before suggesting warranty replacement.

Thank you all for help! Just checked as you guys suggested the conductive film (the green/blue board underneath the buttons), Cleaned it with cotton soaked with isopropyl alcohol, now it works again!

This is a YT tutorial

⟐ Commented May 07, 2025 at 7:41 MST

⟐ Answered April 24, 2025 at 16:59 MST

The button is just fried for no apparent reason.

⟐ Commented April 13, 2025 at 23:22 MST

⟐ Commented January 29, 2025 at 23:45 MST

⟐ Answered January 13, 2025 at 0:44 MST