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⟐ Answer accepted March 22, 2026 at 11:40 MST

Can I transfer the face plate and track pad plate onto a V5 controller?

If not, will the motherboard and sticks from a V5 fit and connect with internals from a V3?

For reference i have the motherboard serial number BDM-030. Any help is appreciated I would love to keep the livery on this controller if joystick replacement is the only option then that'll have to do. Thank you.

⟐ Answered March 21, 2026 at 2:07 MST

I resoldered the 8 cables in the correct order (I'm a beginner) and it worked fine for a while. After a month I noticed the haptic feedback wasn't working in multiple games, so I tested the controller again and found that the soft and heavy rumble no longer work (tested on different PCs, cables, ports, etc.).

I tried resoldering the motor cables again but it affected nothing. Tried resetting the controller and checked for firmware updates (there were none), didn't help.

What are the chances that whatever board damage I made didn't manifest until after a few days?

I didn't have alcohol to clean after my soldering the first time, and I left a bit of flux on the board before closing the controller again. I just dried it a bit with a tissue though.

the hall effect sticks did go crazy for a few days after I fixed the cables the first time, but it settled down on their own. Is this an indication of something?

⟐ Commented March 19, 2026 at 8:35 MST

⟐ Commented March 14, 2026 at 5:02 MST

I assembled the gamepad fully and connected it to the tester. During these tests, I found that the speaker is not working (one contact was bent, so I fixed it later) and both types of vibration are not working (wires are soldered correctly). Everything else looks good, except for the battery, which shows a charge of 0-9%. I charged the gamepad for several hours and saw that after a full charge, the orange light blinks rapidly. After connecting it to the tester again, it showed the battery charge jumping from 0-9% to 100% and back.

Visually, I can't find any missing elements. I don't see any shorts for now. During the removal of the old sticks, I damaged a few traces near the stick buttons, but it was just the green mask being removed.

In conclusion, the symptoms are:

• Battery charge jumping from 0-9% to 100% when fully charged.
• Speaker not working (even after fixing the contact).
• Both types of vibration not working.
• The gamepad powers off after a few seconds if connected wirelessly.

Maybe someone has had a similar problem and knows how to fix it? I found one topic with similar symptoms, but there was no solution. I will be grateful for any help.

⟐ Commented March 03, 2026 at 11:04 MST

So my cousin had some stick drift on his PS5 controller, and I offered to upgrade it to TMR sticks. The upgrade was successful but now the R1 button doesn't work. He mentioned he dropped it once and one of the shoulder buttons got stuck, but that he un-stuck it and it was working fine after that. Things I've tried:

• I tried swapping the button membrane from the working L1 button to the R1 button.
• Replaced the conductive film.
• Cleaned the area where the motherboard interfaces with the conductive film.

What else could it be?

Thanks

⟐ Commented March 03, 2026 at 11:02 MST

What could be causing this and how might I fix it? Or is it a bad stick?

⟐ Answered February 23, 2026 at 1:15 MST

⟐ Answered February 14, 2026 at 16:50 MST

I’m working on a PS5 DualSense (BDM-030) where I replaced both joysticks with GuliKit TMR modules. During removal of the original left stick, the LSX (left stick X-axis) trace was damaged.

Current symptoms:

Left stick only registers movement to the left, top-left, and bottom-left.
VCC is present (~1.8V).
Ground has continuity.
The LSX signal (middle pin) does not show continuity to any nearby components, so I believe the signal trace is broken.

I previously attempted a jumper to VCC by mistake, removed it, and confirmed the issue is specifically the LSX signal path.
I’m trying to locate the correct series resistor or via for the LSX signal on the BDM-030 board so I can run a proper jumper to the MCU side of the circuit.

Does anyone know:

The exact resistor designation for LSX on BDM-030?
A confirmed via location for that signal line?
A known safe jumper point for this repair?

Any boardview reference or photo guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
-Zeek

⟐ Answered January 14, 2026 at 11:20 MST

When I was working on onother controller the traces I have shown in the picture kinda got scraped off while using wick. I checked Out where the traces go but I dont really know the answer. After I plugged the controller back in to test The sticks still work So I want to`know what those traces lead to and do. If its something minor like microphone or speakers I will just leave it be but anything gameplay crusial I will try fixing. Thanks!!!

⟐ Commented January 12, 2026 at 15:20 MST

⟐ Commented November 14, 2025 at 0:42 MST

⟐ Answered October 25, 2025 at 8:48 MST

⟐ Answered September 28, 2025 at 5:33 MST

⟐ Answered September 07, 2025 at 11:54 MST

So some context, I have aps5 controller which I had left at my parents place for a couple months, to finally come back and retrieve it to find that (at least) the left analog stick chewed a bit (suspect was my niece) and found a few oily marks.

I have brought it back, cleaned it up and replaced the thumb-grip and the controller is all but functioning! at least, I thought it was until I noticed that it only works when connected to the PC. Doing some research, I assumed it was a faulty battery and have now replaced it with a larger one! Controller still functions but still, the problem persists!

I do some more research and it seems the issue I thought I was having all lead to the same solution, which was a battery replacement. It wasn't until I did some button testing to find that the PS button was unresponsive, both via steam and the gamepad test website. Now knowing this, I did some additional research and found that the likely culprit is a faulty conductive film, which I have now ordered and await it's arrival.

What I am asking now, the real reason for the post, is whether there could be another solution? As of now, controller still works when connected with wire to my PC, I don't own a PS5 to do some troubleshooting there if there are any. Testing the controller with the new and original battery still shows that the PS button still is unresponsive. I have cleaned the conductive film several times, and even the motherboard to where it connects to, but still nothing has changed.

I guess I just have to wait for the conductive film to arrive and replace it, I have even looked that the little foam pad could also be a culprit, that if it is too squished it could be causing little connection, but that would be so weird for the PS button to be the only thing that didn't work, right? If either of those don't resolve the issue, I guess I am stuck with a wired controller, with a useless battery upgrade smh. BUT PLEASE, what could also be the issue here?

⟐ Commented August 29, 2025 at 0:38 MST

⟐ Commented August 27, 2025 at 9:28 MST

⟐ Commented August 10, 2025 at 2:19 MST

⟐ Commented August 06, 2025 at 2:28 MST

⟐ Answered July 20, 2025 at 12:57 MST