⟐ Commented April 02, 2026 at 8:04 MST

⟐ Answered March 25, 2026 at 23:11 MST

Thanks

⟐ Commented March 18, 2026 at 16:57 MST

Looks like the cool-down cycle has quit working.

Clothes come out too hot to handle…worried about fire.

( lint is always kept cleaned out after every load )

( External discharge vent is kept clean, is venting full force )

⟐ Commented March 10, 2026 at 20:24 MST

⟐ Edited March 08, 2026 at 20:24 MST

⟐ Commented March 02, 2026 at 18:55 MST

⟐ Commented March 02, 2026 at 15:30 MST

i put the dryer recently on normal 1 hour cycle , no wrinkle guard and after a few minutes it shows rotating blinking lights. Sometimes it stops mid cycle. There is no wrinkle guard on . It never did this before, first time! Can anyone tell me what is wrong with the dryer.

⟐ Commented February 12, 2026 at 10:55 MST

⟐ Answered February 12, 2026 at 0:03 MST

Having a strange issue. If I unplug my dryer, then plug it in, most of the time the control panel will work. But it's getting to the point where unplugging it has stopped working. I did replace the system board, but the same issue persists. With the new board and the old board. If I open the door, the light on the inside turns on. If I hold in the "Control on" Button, the dryer will lock and if I hold the "End of Cycle" button, it will unlock the panel. But if I hit the Control on after unlocking it, nothing happens.

Is the control panel going bad? There isn't much to it, and I inspected the ribbon cable and it looks fine. It almost seems like there is a short somewhere? Any thoughts?

⟐ Answered February 10, 2026 at 0:34 MST

Circuit breaker appears to work fine (not “tripped” and does turn dryer on/off)

Outlet tests correctly (~120V at both terminals)

Inside the dryer

Heating element and heater box:

Heating element has continuity between the two terminals and no continuity between either terminal and the body (ground).

Thermal cut off and High Limit Thermostat (both on heater box) have continuity between the two terminals and no continuity at either terminal and the heater box (ground) .

Blower housing:

Thermal fuse has continuity between the two terminals and no continuity at either terminal and ground.

Thermistor has about 15k Ohms of resistance and drops very quickly when heated with a hair dryer.

When I put it all back together….it worked fine, until several months later (now).  It is back to running as expected but no heat.  I took everything apart and everything tested as before.

I entered the diagnostic mode; there are no error codes shown and there are no errors stored.

In the encoder test, all keys work as expected.  They turn off as I press each key.

The automatic test cycle appears to run correctly, except there is no heat.  It runs with “Enc” displayed for several minutes, then “but” displayed for several minutes, then turns itself off.

Any ideas why the dryer will not heat? Thanks

⟐ Commented February 08, 2026 at 10:01 MST

When I use the Timed cycle, it works fine. No problem running for 30-35 minutes.

I checked out the Lint filter before the first load of two. It was really filthy like the previous owners didn’t know to clean it ever. I also cleaned out what I could of the exhaust venting ducting. Before this second load, I took out the filter and cleaned out the vent ducting that holds it in place. It was filthy and a lot of lint was removed. I disconnected the exhaust ducting and blew it out with my leaf blower. Velocity is supposedly about 70 mph with a lot of volume as well. A lot of lint was blown out at the end where it exits the house. A lot. I thought that was the cause of the issue.

I ran a second load of towels through and got the same results. Everything looks great. Set the panel to “Towels” and medium heat and was feeling positive…till it quit after 5 minutes. I did nothing to it except to set the dryer controls to the Timed Dry setting and 35 minutes. The towels dried, but seemed like there was still some moisture in them.

My conclusions from this are

that the motor isn’t overheating, or the dryer would shut off under any mode I selected.

the ducting is clear. I got some lint out the first time I cleaned the lint filter. I got a LOT of lint out the second time.

Airflow through the venting should be sufficient. Not only is it a decent volume of air, but the air at the exit point outside the house is cool, not hot.

Having it run fine with a timed setting indicates the motor isn’t overheating. Otherwise, it would shut down in either mode.

There are no strange noises happening, like a belt slipping. In fact, the dryer sounds great.

I’m at a loss. And I really don’t want to call a technician out to fix something that I can change myself. But I need a bit of guidance to get started.

Chris

⟐ Answer edited February 06, 2026 at 21:01 MST

Note: prior to this issue I had bad rollers and I replaced those, the belt, and tensioner. I tested the dryer and it worked fine, the next day, I had this concern.

After replacing both control panels, I have the same symptoms. Door light comes on, no power at panel, no beeps, nothing. I am at a loss, I don’t know what else to replace or test, I don’t usually get to this point but this thing is kicking my butt. Haven’t done laundry at home in two weeks now, need a fix asap please.

⟐ Commented February 03, 2026 at 20:00 MST

⟐ Commented January 26, 2026 at 22:38 MST

I’ve replaced everything in the title and checked continuity on the high limit thermostat plus took readings from the solenoids, which checked out with others readings, and yes, checked to see if the unit is getting gas (even called the company to double check). Still, the ignitor will not even begin to glow. It is a relatively new unit and all the wires seem to be in good shape. So what next?

⟐ Answer accepted January 22, 2026 at 12:09 MST

⟐ Answer accepted January 22, 2026 at 12:05 MST

⟐ Commented January 16, 2026 at 13:49 MST

⟐ Answered January 12, 2026 at 13:24 MST