So please.. I’m actually quite MacGyver but this washer is a bottom of the food chain model. Help me!? I’m begging! Where do I go from here knowing physically I’m not strong enough to lift the dryer and dismantle this whole deal and give it a hard core scrubbing.

Perhaps there is a drain filter Electrolux does not want us to know about?

What about this slime sludge.. will it ever go away with like 20 clean machine cycles?

I Need to wash clothes but I don’t want to forever have to take sheets and towels to the laundromat cuz washer can’t handle any type of lint hair fur.

Currently the stupid thing LEAVES MORE ON MY CLOTHES THEN THEY WENT IN WITH. that’s just not ok. And not how washing machines are supposed to work. Especially washers that are used by ONE PERSON that does not use a lot of laundry in two years.

I’m disgusted, frustrated and at a loss…

}{eather

Btw.. i found ifixit during a moment situational blindness. Probably about 18 months ago. An amazing human basically solved what to me at the moment was catastrophic due to anxiety I didn’t realize what I’d done. I still remember that night and feeling like he was an actual Angel here on earth or had some magic appliance super powers. Crazy anxiety.. but still super thankful and grateful. Current proble,pm has been researched so many times and escalated over probably 9-12 months. Thanks for reading my ramblings., have a great day. :)

⟐ Commented April 03, 2026 at 11:46 MST

Beeps 3 times randomly and it does it all the time. everything seems to work just fine

⟐ Edited January 27, 2026 at 12:58 MST

⟐ Commented February 07, 2021 at 16:33 MST

My Kenmore washer will not start. I checked the lid switch and it's working but nothing works when I use the dial. The dryer works fine. I have a Kenmore model number 417.61712510 combo washer dryer. Any ideas please?

⟐ Answered May 30, 2024 at 6:49 MST

⟐ Edited January 27, 2026 at 11:06 MST

⟐ Edited January 27, 2026 at 11:07 MST

⟐ Edited January 27, 2026 at 12:57 MST

AEG washer/dryer Kombi, 7000 DualSense, model L7WEG841R. Bought new in mid 2021.

Washes fine but drying cycle gives up a few minutes after starting - as soon as the sound of air blowing begins, the time countdown skips down to 10 minutes, and it wraps up the cycle. I think no heat has reached the clothes. No error codes at any point.

Detail of an example problematic drying cycle, set for 1:06 hr drying time:

• Counting down from 1:06 to 0:56, does stuff more like a slow spin in the washing cycle.
• At 0:56 starts blowing air like the dryer usually does.
• The Problem: 30 secs later timer skips down to 0:11.
• Continues blowing while counting down. Reaches 0. Beeps a few times. Stays locked almost 10 mins with occasional small drum movements, then unlocks. Didn't feel like any heat had reached in.

I was able to get the machine to tell me an error code by holding down two of the control buttons. E73. whitegoods indicates that's about the NTC sensor:

• Fault in NTC sensor on drying duct (voltage out of range = short-circuit, open circuit)
• Drying NTC sensor (duct) faulty
• Wiring faulty

I think that's the "temperature probe" part 470 on the dryer parts diagram.

Not an answer, just a placeholder for the image of a controller part

⟐ Commented January 29, 2026 at 13:25 MST

⟐ Answered March 29, 2021 at 19:49 MST

⟐ Commented March 01, 2026 at 23:23 MST

⟐ Edited January 27, 2026 at 12:57 MST

⟐ Commented January 21, 2025 at 14:32 MST

⟐ Edited January 27, 2026 at 11:08 MST

⟐ Answered December 13, 2016 at 13:57 MST

These are oldschool washer+dryer combo towers that function on timers and possess no circuitboards.

Both machines are working perfectly apart from that the drain pumps are receiving strange voltage in all cycles. I have connected both pumps directly to 120v power and both are fine.

One machine I have tested more extensively than the other, here are the results;

• when the drain pump is not engaged in a drain cycle (either the timer is not pulled out, or it is a part of the cycle that does not use the drain pump) the hot line to drain pump is receiving 120v, and the neutral line is receiving some 50v
• when the washer timer is pulled out and the washer is attempting to engage the drain pump, depending on the cycle, the hot line is receiving 0v and the neutral line jumps up to some 70v

I have a spare timer on hand at the complex which I have swapped out for the original, but got exactly the same results.

On the second machine I got similar readings, with voltage coming through the neutral line, and voltage coming through the hot line when it should not be (e.g. when the washer timer is not engaged at all), with the only difference being that the hot line is not actually ever receiving 120v, and the readings on the neutral were somewhat different numbers than the first.

One theory is that there is some kind of partial short somewhere in the wires.

But that seems to random of an issue to have found on both of 2 different machines?

Any additional ideas appreciated, I have not yet had the time to completely dismantle and rebuild the washer so as to fully inspect the length of the wires. A full day job.

⟐ Edited January 27, 2026 at 13:01 MST

I have a Kenmore Laundry Center Combo (model #41761723510). We purchased it in 2017 and have had problem after problem. The most recent is the washer not draining. It initially stopped draining and spinning at the end of a cycle. We were having other issues that pointed to potentially mechanical issues so I replaced all of the following (trial and error method):

-Laundry center electronic control board

-Washer user interface

-Door lock

-Washer electronic control board

-Laundry center dryer electronic control board

-drain pump

Even with all of these new components, it is still not draining. When it is in diagnostic mode, it will spin, however it will not turn the drain pump on. I have checked all of the wiring and can’t find and crossed, damaged or loose wires. Throughout all of the issues, it has never provided any type of error code. I’m at a loss. I’ve called local repair men who say they can’t help and to just call Sears. I’ve dealt with Sears in the past and they have been a joke. Any suggestions would be incredibly appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi @jayeff ,

I've been digging around and found these wire diagrams. They are a little confusing, but I might be able to make use of them. Do you have any advice on where to start? Also with the voltmeter…how do I know what voltage to look for?

Thank you for your help!

⟐ Commented September 13, 2023 at 11:07 MST

⟐ Answered October 14, 2022 at 14:22 MST

Hi, I have a stackable washer dryer. It’s an Electrolux the washer is model #eflw317tiw2

the dryer is model #elde317tiw2

my issue is I stopped the cancelled the cycle mid cycle on the clean machine cycle and I have been unable to get it restarted. It has water in the drum and the door is locked. Can anyone help me trouble shoot this. There has got to be a way to get this machine to empty or run a rinse and spin. Stupidly I changed the setting it was on from clean machine which is probably what sealed the deal. Now it has no setting when you turn it on.. it just shows the door is locked. Iwas trying to change it to rinse and spin once I had cancelled it and yes I did cancel the cycle. Or I thought I did.

Any help would be SO APPRECIATED. This is a brand new machine in July. It take a years for maintenance to come fix things where I live and if they have to call for service on this it will be weeks.

Blue skies. Heather

⟐ Answer edited February 22, 2023 at 18:48 MST

I have cleaned all the lint out of the unit, lint screen and housing, but the dryer keeps shutting off after 5-10 mins.

The drum turns and the heating element gets hot, but then the whole thing shuts down after a few minutes.

It will not turn on in “air fluff” mode. It hums when I push the start button like it wants to come on, and then it stops, doesn’t turn on, and if I push the start button again too soon, it doesn’t even hum to try to turn on.

thanks.

⟐ Answered April 02, 2020 at 11:06 MST

⟐ Answer edited December 24, 2019 at 7:05 MST