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The start and stop buttons are not working.

The start and stop buttons are not working.

⟐ Commented March 27, 2026 at 1:24 MST

The F 21 code came up, i replaced the brushes and cleaned the filter out and waste hose on U bend where there was some stuff but not loads, all clean now.

I reset the machine using 6 o clock (Spin) and then turning to 7 o clock. that all worked and cleared

It is still coming up with code and stops on a 30 degree wash at 1 hr 32. (on. 2.20 cycle)

I was hoping it was the brushes, can anyone advise what steps next ?

I tried on speed perfect wash. It is stopping at 31 mins and making a "clicking" noise. V many thanks in advance

⟐ Edited by author March 15, 2026 at 0:30 MST

My washing machine freezes at the 26-minute mark.

Why does my washing machine freeze at the 26-minute mark?

⟐ Commented February 22, 2026 at 7:25 MST

⟐ Commented January 21, 2026 at 17:50 MST

⟐ Answered November 05, 2025 at 4:41 MST

⟐ Answered November 05, 2025 at 4:31 MST

⟐ Answered November 05, 2025 at 4:24 MST

WFL 2480

Old machine (2001), but has been super-reliable until now (only had to change carbon brushes twice)! I’ve grown attached to it (yes!) and I want to fix it!

Okay, several months ago there was a high-pitched squeal for a while when the machine was on spin. Anyway, before I got the time to have a look at it, it seized up one day while washing. Wife called me into the laundry - I turned it off and then had a look. Checked the metal bowl - no play at all there, so not the drum bearings which I had expected. Checked the motor next (6 pin motor + earth pin) - the rear bearing had failed (some metal shards underneath) - the universal motor shaft had seized-up and that’s why it stopped turning.

So, removed motor and took it to a local bearings shop - new quality rear and front bearings fitted to the motor for a modest fee. Outwardly, the electric motor appeared to be in very good condition (no blackened/burnt areas on armature, commutator or windings as far as I could see - no visible signs of any issues really. Remember though, the motor had been seized with power going to it for maybe 30s - 1 min before I turned it off. For good measure I also put a new set of carbon brushes in the motor (although old brushes were still 2cm/1inch long). I also took the opportunity to remove and thorougly clean out the filter on the outlet of the drain pump before assembling everything again.

Time to check! Put some washing in and turned it on to wash. Status light moved to Active (from Ready status) and the water inlet solenoid clicked and water came into the machine! So far, so good! Then tub spun, but only for 1-2 seconds (tub maybe did 2-4 revolutions) and then came to a stop. A minute or so later it did the same thing, and so on, and so on. The same thing happens in the rinse mode and the spin mode - starts okay, but then stops, only to keep doing the same thing. The status light remains on Active all the time, it’s just that the motor has a little flurry, stops for a while and then goes again later - but doesn’t KEEP turning as it should. Tried it with the old carbon brushes back in, but exactly the same thing.

What could it be? Some other damage to the motor, or something else perhaps has failed after the motor seized up? It has an emf suppression capacitor, but it looks okay and someone told me they very rarely go bad.

Maybe I should buy a second-hand motor and give it a go?

⟐ Answered November 05, 2025 at 4:15 MST

⟐ Answered November 05, 2025 at 4:08 MST

I've got a Bosch VarioPerfect Serie 4 washing machine that has started knocking loudly when the machine is ratcheting up or down from the spin cycle. The spin still works and the machine doesn't excessively wobble or move around. It'll knock very loudly, very quickly (3 knocks per second maybe) for 20-40 seconds when working up to the spin cycle, then it'll stop, then start again when the spin cycle winds down. During the normal wash cycle, it works perfectly. Whisper quiet.

I found a manual online but it didn't have any useful info. And I haven't cracked the machine open yet, so I can't say what's going on inside at this point. This will be my first time dissecting something larger and more essential for living than a sewing machine, so any insights are appreciated.

⟐ Answered November 05, 2025 at 3:55 MST

⟐ Answered August 13, 2025 at 6:21 MST

I replaced the solenoid valve, but the error did not go away. Do you think the instructions on this website are correct?

⟐ Answer accepted October 09, 2023 at 0:39 MST

⟐ Answered March 27, 2023 at 6:10 MST

I’ve recently moved into a new house and noticed my washing machine pump wasn’t draining, and I was receiving a ‘clr fltr’ message. I initially cleared my filter, turned it back on and still got the error. I then opened up the bottom of the machine and checked for obstructions in the tubing underneath, nothing.

So I tried something, I disconnected my pump hose from the outlet under the sink, and ran the machine on a spin cycle, all the water came out quickly and without issue, so I’m 99% sure my drain hose isn’t clogged or obstructed. Is it possible somethings wrong with my plumbing? There’s no kinks in the hose however it does have to run down and then slightly up again to reach the connection.

Any help at all would be appreciated as I’m completely lost.

⟐ Commented January 24, 2023 at 6:53 MST

I can clearly see that the pipe which sits underneath the dispenser tray which I think is supposed to take the majority of the excess water away, is not sitting flush with the hole it sits under. I can move the the pipe so it sits underneath quite easily, but each wash the vibrations seem to shift the pipe so that there is a gap for water to escape again.

My questions are:

1. is there some way that the top of this pipe is supposed to seal or clip around the bottom of the tray to prevent it moving sideways out of place?
2. if this keeps happening but I can’t see any issue hole or rip in the pipe, will replacing the pipe help with the seal?

Any help would be hugely appreciated.

My issue is not with the dispenser drawer or blockages or high water pressure as most sites seem to call the most common problem

Thanks

⟐ Answer accepted October 23, 2022 at 15:50 MST

Now there's a leak coming from the connection between the tub and tub-to-pump hose ..which channels water from tub to drainage pump.

In the photo you can see the leak between the plastic and the rubber it looks like nothing ..but don't let it fool you when water is pushed into the tub this leak pools up the kitchen floor in no time..

I unplugged the hose and cleaned around the lip on both hose and tub to make sure the contact and seal are ok..and made sure the ball valve can move freely and not blocking the way, re-tightened the hose with the screw clamp ..still leaking ..

Any thoughts ..?

Updating with photo .

⟐ Commented October 25, 2021 at 0:46 MST

⟐ Commented July 22, 2021 at 1:00 MST