*Took out the chip in case I ever find one from a donor board, but would still like to know if it's worth the extra hassle.

I assume this is a power supply issue with how other things being plugged in affect it, and I already tried replacing the logic board which did not fix it. Is there any other ideas on this, where I could look to repair on this power supply board? Thank you in advance!

https://www.amazon.com/LCDOLED-Replaceme...

Is this the same panel as the original? Is this doable to replace myself? I took a 5k iMac apart before to replace a hard drive, which required taking literally every part off, including the display, so I'm pretty comfortable with fixes like that, but not sure how the Studio Display compares.

⟐ Edited by author September 16, 2025 at 7:24 MST

I bought LED light checker , test result is each stripe 54V shown.

I found one of boost schottky diode ( STR0+ ) exploded. also mosfet has burned.

according to A1267's service manual I can find 24.5v and 15V from PSU into MLB.

I need to clarify "Power Source voltage firstly". please tell me some data if you have a exprience.

Question:

1. PSU Connector's Pin voltages: Can you tell me correct voltage each connect pin on MLB ?
   • now I measured pin#1 : 24.5 V , pin#2 : 24.5 v ( tied up pin#1 ) , pin#3: GND , pint#4 : GND ( tied up pin#3 ) , pin#5 : ? , pint#6 : ? , pint#7 : ?
2. Back Light LED test result
   • I can read about 54v each stripe by Back light Test. I guess back light well.

**

I am going to exchange 540N Boost MOSFET and B2100 schottky diode and HV9982 controller.

firstly I have to check power source of back light , locally I guess PSU provide 24.5V.

order to check TP11 --> TP12 --> TP81 and STR0+

anyone who know proper parts?

1. Mosfet part : Rds value ?
2. Schottky Diode part : Vd value ?

⟐ Edited July 07, 2024 at 7:58 MST

Many thanks.

⟐ Edited December 04, 2022 at 0:25 MST

(which includes, late 2009 poly MacBook, early 2009 20inch iMac and a late 2009 27inch iMac ) someone please have a fix for this as I’ve been dealing with it for a long time now

⟐ Commented July 12, 2022 at 13:22 MST

⟐ Edited by author June 28, 2022 at 2:53 MST

When I connect my Apple Cinema Display 24" ... the flickering goes mental ...

Tried every configuration. still no luck

⟐ Commented May 30, 2022 at 20:40 MST

Plugging them into a 2017 MacBook Pro with a Startech USB-C to DVI adapter.

Have switched out power bricks, displays (and associated cables since they're part of the display). I only have the one DVI adapter though.

Both will constantly "blink" or "flicker" on and off, at something like 2Hz (black then displays desktop then black & repeat).

Two of the two displays will show solid for 7 sec, then the display adjusts (all my windows shift by ~1 inch - maybe setting some resolution?) then starts the flickering.

Changing the resolution to "Scaled" in the SysPrefs/Displays panel doesn't appear to help either; flicker rate stays exactly the same, but resolution does change.

Here's a video of the issue: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mm6gPD5...

Any suggetstions to bring the displays back to life would be appreciated!

Models:

Laptop: MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2017, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports)

Displays: Cinema Displays, model A1081, 2005 (three of these)

Power bricks for Cinema display, 65W: model A1096, 2005 (two of these)

USB-C to DVI adapter: Startech CDP2DVI (2022)

⟐ Commented May 30, 2022 at 18:15 MST

⟐ Edited April 01, 2022 at 4:21 MST

Thanks for your attention.

Cheers

Mauro

⟐ Commented January 13, 2022 at 16:28 MST

⟐ Commented January 13, 2022 at 13:55 MST

This week I got an A1082 for free since it was supposed to not work anymore. The giver told me that the display suddenly stopped working. The monitor is modified a little bit: Apparently the original power supply stopped working at some point and thats why he replaced the connector with a DC connector to use with one of the regular power supplies. And according to him that worked out for some time until said display stopped working.

Now I have the monitor standing here together with a 24V 6A power supply and a Windows pc with a gtx 1070Ti (including DVI). When I connect the monitor to the power and to the PC the monitor does show nothing - no backlight, no LED. The PC recognizes the monitor under “Cinema HD” and knows the resolution (1920x1200).
Connecting the USB cable to my PC seems to do nothing - I can neither use the USB plugs of the monitor, nor is anything else shown.

For me it seems like the monitor may not work anymore, but maybe its just a special case that I didnt stumble over yet. Maybe it just doesnt work with windows like it does with a mac (I could use my girlfriends one as soon as I have a thunderbolt to DVI adapter), maybe there might be an easy hardware fix, maybe it just doesnt work without a magsafe power supply (and the giver lied).

I hope someone knows some more about this topic. It would be a shame if I would have to throw this monitor away.

So I opened the monitor up to check if there is some obvious damages. But nothing that I could detect on the go. Am I right to believe, that the power in should be on the top the black connector right next to the flat orange capatior? Because I couldnt measure any volt there. I guess the cable could be broken (power supply is new and has ~24 volt out). Is there anything else I can check with a multimeter?

⟐ Edited by author November 26, 2021 at 18:34 MST

About a month ago it flickered a few times. Then last week the screen starting blanking. Unplug/replug fixed it. Today the camera offered no signal to video apps, though the green camera light came on.

After researching suspect the cable or dongle might be flakey, so my first step is to try a direct USBC - thunderbolt connection . But now with the camera trouble I'm wondering if something else is failing.

Any thoughts?

⟐ Commented September 07, 2020 at 16:03 MST

The screen goes black on reboot or start up. The Mac knows its there (I have dual displays) the hard drives etc plugged into it are seen by the Mac and the Mac thinks its on but the screen is black.

If I unplug the power leave it 10 seconds and then replug it back in it usually starts back up again. Sometimes it might take 2 goes of doing that for it to come back to life.

I am not sure if this is connected but the screen is slightly more dull than the other screen. ie not a bright and crisp. Image quality is still great. Its just slightly duller.

Any thoughts, before I plow in and pull it apart? LED, Backlight or Logic board?

Thanks much appreciated.

⟐ Commented September 07, 2020 at 4:45 MST

After connecting the display to my Macbook Pro and turning it on, it never fails to dim after several minutes of use. None of my other displays have this issue, and it does this with any computer I hook it up to. I primarily use my displays together, daisy-chained, but the problem occurs even if I just have the one malfunctioning monitor connected directly to my MBP.

I’m pretty sure that even when it first turns on, it isn’t at full brightness (I’ve used one of my other TB displays as reference), but it’s pretty close. Eventually (after 1-6 minutes), it dims, dropping down to around 65-70% brightness. Using the brightness control in System Preferences lets me turn down the brightness but even with the slider at the fullest setting the most I get is that 65-70%. If I unplug the TBolt and power cables, wait a bit, then plug them back in, SOMETIMES I can get it to work again. But most of the time it needs to be off for several hours before it goes back to “normal”.

And finally, it’s started to shut off after using it in the dimmed state for more than about 20 minutes. I can’t tell if it’s just the backlight or if the entire device is shutting down, but I’ll check next time it does this and update. Once it started this behavior a few months back, I stopped using it altogether. But now I’m back banging my head against the wall trying to get it functioning properly.

Here is what I have tried so far…

1. Firmware is up to date (all my monitors are 26.2 firmware, 2.0.7 port micro)
2. “Automatically adjust brightness” is turned off on all screens
3. Thunderbolt/Magsafe cable replaced
4. Power cable replaced
5. Logic Board replaced
6. Power Supply replaced
7. I’m fairly confident that the ambient light sensor is not being obstructed

All of these repairs went very smoothly, and I’m quite familiar with the internal topology of the TB Displays now. I’ve been repairing electronics and building my own computers for two decades now, so I’m fairly certain I didn’t mess anything else up during th repairs. Nevertheless, my exact same problem persists, seemingly no worse or better.

Below is a photo of my last two displays—broken one on the left, normal one on the right. It’s very hard to take an accurate picture, but I’ll say that the disparity in brightness between the two monitors is WAY more noticeable in person.

Also including a screenshot of TBolt system report in case that’s helpful:

I have a new LCD panel coming in next week, but I just don’t feel like that’s going to help. And it’s the last idea I have as to what could be replaced to fix my problem. So, I’m hoping maybe someone here will have a suggestion or something else I can try.

Any advice would be very much appreciated!

==============================================

UPDATE 08/23/2020: The monitor went out during tests again today, and I was able to confirm that it is the backlight that is shutting off when it goes dark. If I shine a powerful light into the screen I can still see the OS on it. Should be receiving the new LCD panel today, and I’ll update again once that’s installed.

⟐ Edited by author August 23, 2020 at 14:56 MST