⟐ Commented April 01, 2026 at 7:37 MST

⟐ Answered March 31, 2026 at 7:52 MST

⟐ Answered March 29, 2026 at 22:27 MST

⟐ Answer edited March 29, 2026 at 10:39 MST

Can I charge the battery without the laptop I'm trying to charge the battery by itself?

⟐ Answered March 24, 2026 at 1:36 MST

⟐ Commented March 22, 2026 at 5:26 MST

• Reseated RAM sticks, tried each slot individually.
• Removed battery and performed CMOS reset.
• Disconnected all peripherals.
• Connected to external monitor.

Looking for advice on what hardware failures commonly cause this, or if there’s a safe way to test the GPU/motherboard at home.

⟐ Answered February 18, 2026 at 3:39 MST

My Acer XZ322QU monitor intermittently powers on with visible backlight but shows only a black screen—no image and no OSD menu when I press buttons. Interestingly, macOS still detects the display in System Settings, and I can move my mouse cursor onto that screen space (though I can't see it).

I've already tried:

- Different cables (HDMI and DisplayPort)

- Different ports on both the monitor and Mac

- Power cycling and leaving it unplugged overnight

- Connecting to a different computer

The issue happens randomly—sometimes it works fine, other times it doesn't display anything despite the backlight being on.

Which internal component is most likely failing (T-Con board, main board, panel itself)? What diagnostic steps should I take before opening it up?

Diagnostic Steps Taken:

• Voltages: Checked the Panel Driver board input; 12V rail is stable. (multimeter)
• Cable Check: Checked and cleaned the main 51-pin LVDS/eDP cable. (Note: The metal housing on the connector was removed during inspection, but pins appear to make contact).

Half-Screen Test:

• When I disconnect the Right Ribbon Cable (the bridge connecting the left and right panel driver boards), the monitor displays an image on the left half sometimes (and the other half is white screen). if not this, then the entire screen is still the backlight on no display type.
• When I reconnect the ribbon, the entire screen goes black again without any reason or patterns.

I am looking for the solution to isolate any short. i am unable to locate fuse, VGH, VGL, AVDD. since there are no markings on the board.

As it appears, i am not sure where the problem is, there is also this method i tried from yt videos to see if a semiconductor is short, but i would like to get insights on how to check if the main board has a failure, panel board, or just the screen itself. i also would like to learn how to check for shorts properly.

after attempting the above stated steps, i figured it is best to assemble the monitor and give it a try.

1. The bootup logo now shows up almost everytime i unplug the power cord from the back of the monitor and plug it back. (earlier it only showed once in a blue moon).
2. after 1.5 hours of regular powering off the monitor, unplugging the power cord, reconnecting the dp1.4 to usb-c cable to my macbook, it decided to work randomly. I am now using it for almost about 2 hours (stable, no issues)
3. one more thing to notice - while the macbook is connected to monitor and the display is working, if i connect the MAGSAFE charger to my MACBOOK, the display on monitor kinda like goes black for 2-3 second and unlucky that it may or may not display for next couple of minutes if not hours. idk how that is possible. Connecting macbook to power changes the display on the external monitor connected.

i left the monitor plugged in overnight but had the monitor turned off. surprisingly i turned on my mac and connected the DP1.4 cable, it worked the very first time, no struggle. Then i wanted to check the reliability so i checked with hdmi with PS4 Procurement and Inventory Executive, unfortunately after 2 minutes it started doing the 2 second blackout thing.

⟐ Commented February 08, 2026 at 6:38 MST

⟐ Answered February 08, 2026 at 5:44 MST

⟐ Answered January 24, 2026 at 12:57 MST

⟐ Commented January 24, 2026 at 2:27 MST

⟐ Answered January 17, 2026 at 4:12 MST

⟐ Answer edited January 08, 2026 at 4:48 MST

⟐ Commented December 31, 2025 at 23:26 MST

This is what I observe

• If I plug in the charger, the blue battery light is stable
• Absolutely nothing happens when pressing the power button: no fans, no lights, no beeps, nothing

I am comfortable with a screwdriver and own an Ifixit pro toolkit so I can get pretty much anywhere, but I have not been able to find any schematics online for this motherboard, and although all ports are labeled, most labels are just some letters and numbers, and not actually informative. Acer and their service partners probably have a list for that, but I wasn't able to find it online, so I'm flying partially blind.

I have tried these things:

There are no peripherals connected to the laptop.

• hold the power button for 10, 25, 30, 60 seconds as well as a lot more times for different durations
• remove battery and charger, hold power button for 90 seconds to drain residual energy
• use a multimeter to confirm the battery delivers power (~16.8V, should be anywhere between 14.5 and 17.9v, so that's fine)
• use a multimeter to confirm the charger delivers the appropriate voltage to the motherboard (measured behind the thing where the power socket wire connects to the motherboard)
• use a multimeter to confirm the keyboard connector has power to ground at least at several pins
• use a multimeter to verify the CMOS battery delivers charge (~3v)
• reseat RAM
• reseat a lot of other connectors
• visually inspect entire motherboard, there are no signs of damage to the motherboard, capacitors, or anywhere else.
• short the 1&2 pins on the keyboard connector to ground (separately) to try and force a boot

Nothing I try seems to make any discernable difference to the laptop behaviour.

This is what I'm looking for

I would like some pointers on what else I can test or verify to try and pinpoint the issue. Currently my only remaining guesses are

1) the keyboard is non-functional, and since that contains the on/off button, the laptop can't turn on because of it.

2) the motherboard is toast, but I consider this unlikely because 1) it's never the motherboard and 2) there are no visible burns, leakages or damages anywhere

Does anybody have an idea on:

• how I could eliminate or confirm the keyboard as a cause (preferably without having to buy a new keyboard because those are expensive for a test),
• how I could test/eliminate/confirm the motherboard as a cause
• what other things I could test

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Answered December 22, 2025 at 3:43 MST

⟐ Answered December 16, 2025 at 21:08 MST

I ordered a case for an An515-54 and that was what the website said. However, as you can see, the two look different. Does anyone know if they are possibly compatible?

⟐ Answered December 15, 2025 at 7:14 MST